The Florence menswear show Pitti Uomo has always been regarded as an important platform for high-quality menswear tailoring and Italian cultural heritage. However, the continuing epidemic has also brought a lot of pressure and uncertainty to the holding of Pitti Uomo, and Ann Demeulemeester and Brunello Cucinelli, who were special guests of this year's brand, withdrew from this year's Pitti Uomo before the exhibition.
Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Uomo digital platform Pitti Immagine, said he understands that "some exhibitors are facing great difficulties and trials", but also believes that by the number of exhibitors and media, they are maintained at a good level, thus verifying the power of Pitti Uomo and the menswear market.
Between January 11 and January 13 this year, around 600 exhibitors attended the 101st Pitti Uomo Florence Menswear Show at the Fortezza da Basso Exhibition Center, which is still less than the number it was before the outbreak, but has doubled compared to the 300 exhibitors in the previous edition.
At the same time, it is more noteworthy that the Autumn/Winter 2022 collection brought by the participating brands is also clearly revealing a more optimistic mentality, as well as a more interesting and diversified dress trend - in addition to some high-quality formal wear brought by well-known men's wear brands, there are also many up-and-coming young brands, bringing avant-garde casual styles, interesting design elements and techniques.
The name of this knitwear brand fully reflects the temperament of the Parisian designer Siri Johansen. Siri Johansen has been using agricultural machinery and recycled yarns, handcrafting genderless knitwear on knitting machines. Interestingly, the knit patterns made using this machine are random and also reflect the availability of raw materials, so each knit is unique.
Waste Yarn Project, fall 2022
Siri Johansen, who has experience in knitting at many well-known fashion brands, initially started her first collection with knitwear manufacturer Sebastion Maes and together collected yarns that could be recycled. In her second Fall/Winter collection, there are many candy-colored checked cardigans, blankets and crewneck knits, and Siri Johansen says that these outfits with endless possibilities and randomness will be very eye-catching.
Founded in early 2020 by fashion buyer Alessio Aramini, Naviglio Milano has been committed to combining vintage style with modern tailoring into Naviglio Milano, where coats are the core product, and the brand name is a direct reference to Milan's picturesque port area, Navigli. Alessio Aramini says he's seen a lot of vintage coats in his father's and grandfather's closets and wants to bring these old styles to life with eco-friendly recycled fabrics.
Naviglio Milano, fall 2022
Naviglio Milano's AW22 collection is called "Differentiated," and each coat is designed to express a different personality through an imaginary figure. One yellow corduroy coat pays homage to the Mods style of the '60s, while a double-breasted maxi coat is the signature style of '90s fashion editors.
Itoh, a New Delhi-based menswear brand whose aesthetics is rooted in founder Amit Babbar's Indian cultural background, has always featured understated, relaxed formalwear. Each season is like a capsule collection that showcases the distinctive hand-woven fabrics that Amit Babbar collects from all over India, such as cotton, wool and linen blends and canvas.
Itoh, fall 2022
For AW22, Amit Babbar wants to go beyond the seasons to create a brightly coloured, relaxed, rustic piece that includes collarless shirts made of Madras cotton, ruffled shirts, loose, colourful pleated suits, and striped pajamas that showcase modernity and coolness beyond the traditional aesthetic definition of business menswear.
Since launching its first collection in 2007, Hannes Roether has dedicated herself to using luxurious fabrics to create classic menswear for gentlemen who seek avant-garde style and exquisite tailoring. At Pitti Uomo this season, the German designer and his life partner Nicky Wendt bring a series of workwear suits, such as loose corduroy, pinstriped three-piece sets with stand-up jackets and turtleneck knits, checked coats made of denim and military-style coats, making the overall look understated and refined.
Hannes Roether is new this season
Alpha Studio is a 35-year-old knitting brand founded in Florence by founder Franco Rossi, who has always insisted on producing fabrics and making knitwear in Italy, providing consumers with classic high-quality products. For AW22, Alpha Studio is offering different styles such as diamond-patterned sweaters, ribbed turtlenecks and crewneck sweaters, including soft cream, beige, camel and more, and uses high-quality natural yarns to create a stale yet chic aesthetic.
Alpha Studio, fall 2022
At pitti Uomo, Filson joined its European distributor and licensor WP Lavori at the menswear show. In addition to Filson, WP Lavori is responsible for Levi's, Beams, Engineered Garments, Nanamica and other brands. In a partnership, WP Lavori helped Filson expand the 124-year-old brand's marketing network in Europe.
Filson coat
Filson has long been known for its unique chunky twill briefcases, computer bags and oversized rucksacks, and has gradually expanded into a wider range of accessories such as outdoor and urban commuting. At Pitti Uomo, Filson brings the brand's signature outdoor wear, coats and accessories such as the wool-lined parka, down jacket and insulated vest, flannel and mole-skin shirt, cargo pants and jeans.
In recent years, the most popular footwear brand Premiata presented the brand's first sports menswear collection at pitti Uomo, focusing on the overalls-inspired Parker coats, oversized down jackets and track and fieldwear, with fabrics that are mainly performance-oriented, such as nylon and waterproof organic cotton.
Premiata, fall 2022
"I developed a versatile, structurally scientific sports collection for urban men," says Vincenzo Mazza, a fourth-generation member of the family of founders who lead the brand.
The family-owned footwear company in Nantes, France, was originally born in 1945 during World War II, and thanks to the persistence and enthusiasm of founder René Cléon, the brand Kleman was officially established in 1988, and soon after its establishment, it became a supplier to several french government departments.
Kleman, case 2022
Klema, who has never chased trends, is now helmed by Mathieu Cléon, continuing its neutral, workwear style and creating durable shoes for men, including classic Moc Toe leather boots and derby shoes, which have not changed since the 80s. For AW22, Kleman adds some hiking details and the use of eco-friendly materials to the label's iconic collection.
In order to meet the needs and concerns of young consumers for uniqueness and fashion sustainability, Italian sneaker brand Run Of has launched a new upgrade project in Pitti Uomo - Runwastable, a low-top sneaker modified from a motorcycle jacket, which consumers can participate in and transform it into their own color matching.
Run Of Runwastable sneakers
Dieuveil Nougbou and Lancine Koulibaly founded Umòja in 2018, a brand name meaning "unity" in Swahili, a sneaker brand that uses plant-based raw materials and does not contain any plastic. Umòja attaches great importance to the textile traditions of West African countries.
After years of development, a low-top sneaker called MMEA has become the brand's most iconic best-selling style. Made from cotton, linen, hemp and latex from suppliers from Burkina Faso, France and Portugal, the shoes are fully traceable and recyclable.
Umòja, fall 2022
In addition to interesting menswear brands, the application of sustainable materials and the return of sophisticated and elegant fashion trends, etc., more and more menswear trends have brought many highlights to pitti Uomo, which is celebrating the 101st edition.
Although the epidemic has brought a lot of uncertainty to fashion exhibitions, after the test of the past two years, whether it is Pitti Uomo or local fashion weeks, they are bringing a new and diversified look and the ultimate pursuit of aesthetics with a more positive and sunny attitude. WWD
Written by Martino Carrera and Obi Anyanwu
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