Text | Ye Jia
Traditional Chinese Chinese New Year's Eve rice, no matter north or south, the most indispensable dish is fish, and it must be whole fish, usually last, symbolizing "fish (yu) every year".
In the northern part of our country, there are generally carp, while crucian carp is in the south of the river. Jiaxing and the surrounding areas are more exquisite, and the dish of crucian carp inlaid meat will be held. Crucian carp inlaid meat is also called "pocket crucian carp", also known as "meat embedded crucian carp", that is, the meat is stuffed in the stomach of the crucian carp, stuffed into a bulging sac, not only represents "surplus", but also "full of surplus".
In the old days, whether it was a large family or an ordinary family, on the table where Chinese New Year's Eve, two crucian carp inlay meats that were opposite and neatly placed in blue and white porcelain pots were dotted with white and green onions, which were like a New Year painting in itself.
The chowder of meat and fish, which the ancients called "mackerel", pronounced the same as "steaming", the "mackerel" group word "Hou Mackerel", meaning exquisite meat dish, its canon is:
Although the "Five Marquises" of the HanCheng Emperor Liu Xiao on the same day were all brothers, they did not share the same heart, they had contradictions with each other, each did not give in to each other, and their guests also had their own people to rely on, and they could not be favored on each side.
Lou Hou this person not only knows how to cook, but also is knowledgeable, can speak well, good at Yuantong, only he is not jealous, often go to the five houses to visit, calmly mediate all parties, so the five marquises like him very much, as a guest, compete to entertain him with precious food, and also give gifts to Lou Hou food.
Lou Hu cooked the fish and meat given to him by Wuhou and the taste of mountains and treasures of the sea together, and the result became a rare "strange meal", which was called "Wuhou Mackerel", which was a delicious dish that "gathered the strengths of the five families".
This is the earliest account of fish and meat cooked together, and should be the origin of crucian carp inlaid meat.
Crucian carp inlay meat production is cumbersome, but the technical content is general, to test whether the production method is in place there is a hard indicator, that is, to see whether there is meat in the head of the fish. Crucian carp head is small but hanging fresh, the minced meat into the fish head, in the firing process of minced meat fully absorbed the essence of the fish head, so the crucian carp head embedded in the small piece of minced meat is the most delicious in the dish, the real diners will not easily let it go.
Although crucian carp inlaid meat is a Taoist dish, it can also be called a high-end boutique dish among home-cooked dishes. Because the production is relatively cumbersome, it is fish and meat, and the cost is too large, in the past, people could only see its traces at the New Year's Festival or wedding feast.
Now that the living conditions are better, fish and meat are not unusual, but time has become precious, and it takes time to make this dish, so there are not many people who do it every day.
Food distribution fee
Ingredients:
1 crucian carp 500 g, minced meat 150 g.
Accessories:
Shiitake mushrooms, minced winter shoots, green onion, ginger, soy sauce, soy sauce, sugar, cooking wine, chicken essence, salt to taste.
Craftsmanship
1. Wash and dry the crucian carp.
2: Mix minced meat with minced shiitake mushrooms, minced winter shoots, cooking wine and salt.
3: Stuff the mixed minced meat into the stomach and head of the crucian carp.
4: In a frying pan, add ginger slices first, then add crucian carp and fry until golden brown on both sides.
5: Add soy sauce, soy sauce, cooking wine and enough water, bring to a boil over high heat, simmer for about 20 minutes on low heat, dry the sugar, sprinkle with green onions.
Dishes specialise
The meat is tender, fresh but not greasy, salty and sweet, comprehensive nutrition, more protein, less fat.
Image: Courtesy of the author
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Ye Jia
He is a member of the Education, Health, Sports, Culture and History Study Committee of the CPPCC Xiuzhou District of Jiaxing City, the editor of Xiuzhou Literature and History, the special editor of Jiaxing Archives History, and the Shanghai Bookstore Publishing House.