Whether it is early in the morning or late at night, Panyu's pork porridge is warm and reassuring. Photo/soogif
Cantonese food is delicious, there is no doubt about it.
As a Guangzhounese with the highest happiness index of foodies in the country, they are in the center of The Universe Cantonese Cuisine, but they frequently call for love to a place - Fan (pān) Yu.
Panyu people's meals are about 24 hours of unlimited circulation. Graph/Network
Although it is now only a municipal district of Guangzhou, Panyu is a two-thousand-year-old fish and rice town that opened the Lingnan civilization. She is located in the urban area of Guangzhou and the intersection of the river and the pearl river estuary, the unique geographical environment makes it "there are mountains and tea, there is water to fish, grass to graze, there are fields and valleys", everywhere is full of delicious ingredients; and it is adjacent to Shunde, the well-known "world capital of gastronomy", with similar food styles and quite local characteristics.
Xinguang connects Guangzhou city and Panyu quickly. Figure/Figureworm Creative
Every Guangzhounese who has moved from the CBD to live in Panyu is under the guise of "escaping from the city" and coveting Panyu's all-over-the-world cuisine. On the way home from work, 80% of people are thinking about the same question:
"What the hell are you going to eat tonight?"
How much do Panyu people eat?
See three gorgeous transformations of a mud carp
Late autumn to early spring is the time of year when mud carp is in season.
The flesh of the mud carp is fresh and tender, but because of the large number of bone spurs, it is inconvenient to eat, which has the regret of Zhang Ailing's "hate anchovies with many thorns". But this has just made panyu chefs "make the best use of the material" innovation stage, the Qing Dynasty, a refreshing and fragrant "Shiqiao white sale" came into being.
Ichibashi white sale. Figures/MarketMap
According to historical records, a chef in the tea house that year found that the pork filling sold by the traditional roast was not enough, simply took the local materials, replaced it with fish meat, peeled and boned the mud carp meat, beat the fish into a gelatinous shape, and then mixed with wax flavor, shrimp, tangerine peel, pepper, fish skin, etc. to make the filling, and then took the white mud carp glue as the outer skin to make a white and sweet fish roast to sell, because of its white color, in order to distinguish it from the pork roast, it was named "Shiqiao White Sale", which is still popular in the old tea house in Panyu.
Fried stuffed mud carp, a fish will be completely complete. Figure/Figureworm Creative
And Cantonese people eat fish, in addition to the taste should be better, also pay attention to the appearance of the dish, the requirement to be on the table is a whole fish. Panyu people and the Shunde people next door "fried stuffed carp", the mud carp carefully scraped and deboned, to get a complete fish skin, take the fish mushroom mixed with coriander, sausage, tangerine peel and re-stuffed back, cleverly "whitewash taiping" to make the mud carp look like nothing has happened. After a high-temperature frying with heavy oil, various ingredients push the taste of the fish to the peak of deliciousness, and the taste is really tender on the outside, and the mud carp is reborn from the inside to the outside. A seemingly ordinary home-cooked dish in a restaurant, eat it and know that Panyu tastes very unusual.
The Big Mac version of "climbing the Golden Mountain", eating this dish must be from the bottom up, in order to have the meaning of climbing the peak step by step. Graph/Network
There is also a "climbing the Golden Mountain" that you have to eat even if you endure the traffic jam for 2 hours, which is the most "tricky and interesting" way for mud carp to eat in Panyu. The raw fish is slid into a "hill" shape, the lettuce is placed on the bottom, placed in the center of the iron plate, surrounded by a pot of hot water, the diners use spoons to pick up from the bottom of the fish slip, the fish meat after a few seconds of shabu-shabu and then roll two circles of sauce, accompanied by hot white smoke entrance, the delicious flavor of the fish meat reaches a new level.
Lao Guang attaches the most importance to the auspicious meaning of the dish, climbing (grilling) Jinshan is also named after the image of eating, the so-called "Jinshan climb a climb, prosperous and developed", delicious and can also earn the good thing of the head, how can it not be worth the Guangzhou people to jam the car for 2 hours to come?
Grass worms, white pigeon fish, Li Yunzi
Do Panyu people open an aquarium in the kitchen?
Panyu has a unique natural environment, located at the junction of brackish water and water, saltiness of about 14 degrees of water quality, very suitable for fish survival, making Panyu's catch particularly rich, different seasons to Panyu can eat not heavy surprises.
In addition to home-cooked mud carp, veteran river fresh eaters will count the days to go to Panyu with yellow eyebrows, mackerel and yellow foot wax. Freshly landed yellow eyebrows are the most suitable for steaming in soy sauce; in late spring and early summer, groups of mackerel from the sea into the river, usually steamed with ginger onions or oil bubbles, fish oil is rich and sweet, smoke is tough and fragrant; yellow foot wax, Cantonese nicknamed "seabed chicken", because specializing in hunting shrimp, shellfish and crabs, the meat is tender and smooth like a small hen, and it is also very suitable for boiling the pot.
The panyu menu is like an aquarium catalog. Graph/Network
In recent years, it is also popular white pigeon fish, the scales are very small, the fish intestines are white and fine, even the fish meat with the fish intestines will have a unique taste of sweet and crisp, the connoisseurs use white pigeon fish soup, the soup is milky and mellow, but the Cantonese chef of Panyu is not willing to be a dish, white pigeon fish and most fish fresh, garlic tempeh steamed, fried in oil, the same ingredient on the Panyu table is changed to the sweet and fat.
Fried white pigeon fish. Graph/Network
Speaking of turning "impossible" into "delicacy", we have to push Panyu "grass worms". Because of the deep soil layer and good water quality, Panyu grass insects are famous for their individual hypertrophy, golden color and rich protein, and are the traditional native products of Panyu. Panyu worm appearance method to fry, boil, steam, stew-based, worm scrambled eggs, tile bowl baked worms, worm scrambled eggs will appear in almost every Panyu restaurant, authentic worms need fat pulp, protein filled mouth refreshing and smooth, to eat health of The Cantonese people, but convinced that this is a good food therapy that nourishes the yin and spleen, warms the body and gets wet.
Bowl worms, grass worms are the fattest of Panyu. Figures/MarketMap
At the same time, take into account the noble and delicious, when the number of "Li Yunzi". Since ancient times, Panyu has had the custom of eating "cockroaches", and this small freshwater crab called "cockroach" is sent to the table because of the harm to crops. People slowly found that in the early spring, in order to protect the eggs in their arms, the two front claws hugged each other when they went straight, prostrating their heads step by step, like the ancients performing rituals, and there was an additional elegant name called "Liyun".
Although the cockroach is small, the taste is abundant. Graph/Network
For the people of Guangzhou, Li Yunzi is much rarer than caviar. Its consumption period is extremely short, and the Panyu people pinch the mating time of the toads before the Qingming Dynasty every year, catch the female toads and take their eggs, and repeatedly filter and wash them to obtain them. Every ten catties of cockroach can only be made into three or two gifts of cloud seeds, and should not be placed for a long time, otherwise the color will change and the taste will change.
Scoop a spoonful of "Li Yun Zi" and the tofu can be fresher than the fish. Graph/Network
If you can find a few gifts before and after the Qingming Dynasty, remember to quickly meet up with three or five friends, one or two steamed, one or two fried rice. Li Yunzi is extremely fresh, steamed like a brilliant rainbow, small particles such as quicksand, delicate and delicate entrance, simple steamed tofu or fried rice, a small spoon can change the charm of a dish, but also let the table instantly light up the shining background of golden light.
Ginger buried milk, scrambled egg milk, horseshoe cake
Panyu Dessert Cultivation Manual
No matter how much your last meal was fed by a Panyu restaurant tea house, remember to leave a stomach for Panyu sugar water.
The traditional items that must be eaten are ginger buried milk, Panyu buffalo milk and Shunde are equally famous, and they are equally smooth and sweet. However, the ginger buried milk in Panyu Shawan has a few more people's feelings, and the emergence of ginger buried milk is because a Zeng family hopes to bring several families together and no longer dispute over small matters, so the milk is "buried" together with ginger juice. When the spicy of turmeric juice meets the buffalo milk, the milk condenses smooth and elastic, the surface is smooth as a mirror, the sweetness neutralizes the spicy, and everything is harmonious and rich.
Ginger buried milk, like half a round of moonlight. Figure/VCG
The beauty of Panyu sugar water does not stop there. Panyu land is big, locals like to keep chickens, ducks and geese in their own enclosure, but the land is still large, a long-established dessert shop in Panyu Zhong Village, simply raised 100 cows to ensure the supply of fresh milk in the daily store. Is this wave of operations sweet enough to be heartfelt?
Egg scrambled milk is thick and viscous, like a "flowing cake". Graph/Network
There is also seemingly simple, but the heat and egg milk ratio is extremely high requirements of egg fried milk, the perfect fusion of piping hot milk and egg paste, the thick egg fragrance wrapped around the milk fragrance, the entrance is soft and smooth, panyu people's imagination of ordinary ingredients to blend and love is also played to the extreme in desserts.
Horseshoe cake, the most amazing thing is the crisp horseshoe (water chestnut) grains inside. Figure/Figureworm Creative
Some of the old dessert shops will also have radish cake and horseshoe cake, if you see the "big stone crispy horseshoe cake" please do not let go, the refreshing horseshoe cake mixed with sweet and crisp horseshoe grains, mixed with sesame aroma, fried until the skin is golden and crispy, a bite down, lamenting that the original world of "sweet" levels can have so many forms. There are also golden butter fried eggs dipped in osmanthus nectar, glutinous rice fins with flowing milk...
Without further ado, you have to gain a few pounds to decide for yourself.
Midnight
The final revelry was reserved for that plate of offal
In Panyu, pig offal turned the late night break into the climax of the day.
Just like herders live by water and grass, panyu pig miscellaneous shops are opened one by one slaughterhouse. In the 1990s, panyu was full of slaughterhouses, live pigs were usually slaughtered at 11 o'clock in the evening, and the fresh pig offal cut became a sought-after commodity in Panyu's various supper shops - diners from the urban area would call on friends and drive to Panyu from 10 o'clock, arriving before midnight, and it was possible to grab the latest round of pig offal of the day.
In the pork shop, the hostess is chopping meat. Figure/Figureworm Creative
"The enemy army has one hour to reach the canteen", and when the "supper ball" enters the countdown, every pig shop owner will become the most beautiful boy in the whole field. The pig heart that still beats in the heat, the residual warm feel of the hot and humid pork liver and pork belly, in a bright red eye-catching, was neatly stacked on the iron plate by the boss, where the white smoke on the pig offal began to rise, and the wolf smoke was already everywhere on the table.
Porridge roll, under the pig offal. Photo/soogif
Seeing that the pork belly, pig intestines, pig intestines, raw intestines, pig ladders were grabbed, the boss tirelessly ordered these tender and delicious parts to be made together with celery and garlic, pig liver, pork loin, pig heart and other pig water can roll a pot of pork porridge... The knife master in the shop is usually excellent, cutting the internal organs lightly, using the heat of the white porridge to roll the offal until it is just cooked, and the sweet porridge water sets off the tender aroma of the meat. There is also cool pork liver water and sand ginger baked pork tongue, and if the gastrointestinal function is good, eat two more.
No matter how cold life is, the porridge of pigs is always warm. Photo/soogif
"While it's hot, while it's hot!" There was always a constant greeting at the dinner table, and under this unknown suburban iron shed, the enthusiastic people met night and night, from midnight to early morning, only the warm porridge of pigs understood their fatigue the most, and had seen those "plain face to the sky" faces. This bowl of porridge is exhausted, and it is the busy human world again.
Source: Authentic Wind Objects
Editors: Hong Xin Zou Guanlin
Proofreader: Zeng Huiwen