Chuanguan News Reporter Zhang Hongxia Lei Qiang
On the evening of January 6, Michelin officially released the first edition (2022) chengdu Michelin Guide full list, including 1 two-star restaurant, 8 one-star restaurants and 13 Bibendon recommended restaurants, as well as a special award - Michelin Service Award.
This news has aroused strong concern inside and outside the Chengdu gastronomic community, and in the months since the launch of the selection, the Michelin star has attracted much attention, and various folk prediction versions have been repeated.
The mystery was revealed, and a number of popular Sichuan cuisine restaurants were listed, which stimulated people's enthusiasm and exploration for the beauty of Sichuan cuisine.
Taste of Sichuan cuisine: A classic taste cooked in awe
Yuzhilan is a legend. The manager Lan Guijun is famous inside and outside the industry for his "big knife golden silk noodles", and the private dish style with a per capita consumption of more than 1,000 yuan has made this restaurant famous. In 2018, the Magnolia branch opened in Shanghai, and in 2020, Shanghai Magnolia was rated as a Michelin star restaurant.
As the only two-michelin-starred restaurant to be rated this time, Lan Guijun interpreted the taste code - the taste of nature, selected good ingredients, did not over-cook, and put the authenticity of the food in the first place. The formation of Chengdu local flavor, "with soup to determine the taste, to the ingredients to fix the spirit"; the taste of fermentation, sweet noodle sauce, bean paste, vinegar, soy sauce, tempeh, liquor, sausages, bacon, ham, etc. are all fermentation products, use this taste well, so that the dish has a long aftertaste and full of flavor; the taste of harmony, on the basis of the first two tastes, the chef becomes a super flavor maker, focusing on the taste of balance. The spicy taste of Sichuan cuisine will make the taste addictive, and Sichuan cuisine is popular in the world with this three tastes.
Lan Guijun
Lan Guijun said: "Good cooking is like music, there are no borders. After doing these three flavors well, the more diners who travel all over the world, the more they can taste good or bad. In his view, Chengdu is an inclusive city, and in the process of building a "gastronomic capital", learning well and improving the shortcomings can become a benchmark city for the "gastronomic capital".
Awarded a Michelin-starred restaurant, Song Yunze's manager Zhang Yuanfu is happy about it. Song Yunze was founded more than 3 years ago to become a Michelin, Zhang Yuanfu believes that this is closely related to the return to the classics.
Zhang Yuanfu advocated that Sichuan cuisine should be "cautious and innovative." The 1930s and 1940s were the golden age of the development of Sichuan cuisine, which has become a classic. Remove the dross, inherit the classics, know its origin and then innovate according to local conditions, "Of course, this is related to the chef's ability to understand, comprehend, that is, the comprehensive quality, the chef should read everything." ”
Zhang Yuanfu
In addition to restoring the mat system and the skill of fine craftsmanship in Songyunze, Hu Lianquan, the "living dictionary" of Sichuan cuisine, mentioned in his oral history of Sichuan cuisine master Zhang Songyun that why Sichuan cuisine has the breadth of today? In fact, it has a lot to do with "small frying, small stir-frying, dry sautéing and dry roasting", and its taste type and method determine the different characteristics of Sichuan cuisine and other cuisines.
Now, Zhang Yuanfu leads the team to make their own kimchi and watercress, with the intention of making authentic basic flavors from the basic spices to restore and rescue the skills of Sichuan cuisine.
"This is The DNA of Sichuan cuisine that has stood the test. We must have technical confidence, and the more we walk into Michelin, the more we must pay attention to the inherent skills of cooking. Zhang Yuanfu followed the path of exploring and restoring the classics, looking backwards and also forward.
As a rookie in the Sichuan cuisine industry selected for Michelin, Chen Tianfu, the founder of Chai Men Hui, said two words: Catering people are also artists. Let the delicious have memories and make happy Sichuan cuisine.
Du Li, a professor at Sichuan Tourism Institute and director of the Sichuan Cuisine Development Research Center, deeply feels that the chefs in the Sichuan cuisine industry are in awe of ingredients and nature, and integrate the characteristics of ingredients into Sichuan culture, so that the development of Sichuan cuisine will be further advanced.
The beauty of Sichuan cuisine: let the beauty of Sichuan culture spread everywhere
Chengdu writer Zeng Ying said: "Recently, I found that I was writing about food that was very popular, and I put them together into a book, and the result was more than the 14 books I had written before combined. He said, why is that? On the one hand, it can be said that food is popular, Sichuan people are generally optimistic and cheerful, there is a reason, that is, eating is OK; on the other hand, it also shows that food has a healing function, "In today's society, according to statistics, about 40% of people have sleep disorders. But I asked many chefs and didn't hear anyone say they had depression, which is interesting. ”
Mak Jianling
Mai Jianling, president of the Sichuan Gourmets Association, said from the phenomenon of "mobile phone first eating" at the current dinner, diners are not only eating the appearance, eating taste, and the culture behind it, "Sichuan cuisine people are very hard, last year the association launched the 'Chengdu Top Ten Famous Banquets', which is the discovery and promotion of the beauty of Sichuan cuisine, and will also carry out the selection of famous banquets in the future." She said that the association is very supportive of more Chengdu restaurants to apply for Michelin, and the "City of Gastronomy" needs more different styles of food business cards.
Food author Liu Deyue said: "In fact, Sichuan cuisine is not just a table dish, behind which it reflects the life and values and world view of Sichuan people. He hoped that Sichuan cuisine should highlight the profundity of "a hundred dishes and a hundred flavors, one dish and one grid".
Du Li looks back on the history of Sichuan cuisine - Sichuan cuisine went abroad in the 1980s, setting off a wave of Chinese food in the world. Later, because Cantonese cuisine went north, it was silent for a while in the 1980s and 1990s. After 2000, Sichuan cuisine innovation went a little faster, so people in the Sichuan cuisine industry reflected that "you can't lose your soul because you go too fast." "This soul is culture, from the perspective of the world, it is the harmony between man and nature, and now we combine cuisine and culture to talk about the aesthetics of catering." I believe that the development of Sichuan cuisine into a symbolic cuisine of Chinese cuisine is the future development direction of Sichuan cuisine. ”
Yang Mian, a teacher and painter in the Art Department of Southwest Jiaotong University, agrees very much, and he believes that the catering industry especially needs the intervention of elites: "I hope that in the future, I can see Sichuan cuisine restaurants with different price ladders in the public comments, etc. If the Sichuan cuisine with an average of 5,000 yuan per capita can be kept in high and low, and the classification of business places can be ended up." ”
Lan Guijun also expressed similar views. He said that in the United States, Japanese cuisine can be sold for a high price of $1,000 per capita, while Sichuan cuisine of $300 per capita is difficult to find, "The internationalization of Sichuan cuisine is both far away and full of hope, Michelin is an international channel, we should firmly do our own good, and then develop all the way outward." ”