I like to drink tea, can not be a day without this jun, otherwise the eyebrows will be faintly painful, the old tea drinkers have tea addiction, this is not false at all. In southern Fujian, I also have a unique style, like to drink green tea, as soon as I go out, I will search around to buy real estate green tea from all sides. I have a "Chinese Tea Classic" edited by Professor Chen Zongmao, the encyclopedia of tea has everything, according to Tu Suoji, Shangjiang and Zhejiang, go to Liangguang, swim two lakes, and run on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, always ask for good tea and return, not happy. However, this trick has been repeatedly defeated in our eight Fujian lands, which makes me feel sorry and leaves a confusion.
Luoyuan County's western Cheng Yangjing, Changwan Mirror and other seven "realms" (natural village) jointly built mountain temple called "Seven Realms Hall", real estate green tea called "Seven Realms Hall Green Tea", as early as the Ming Dynasty enjoyed a high reputation, once with "Fujian Luoyuan Yuanming Green" sales of Beijing and Tianjin, famous for a while. During the Guangxu years, it developed rapidly and entered its peak state. Later, it gradually declined, but by the end of the 1940s, the old tea house in Tianjin still had the sign of "Seven Realms of Green". In 1974, the tea was redeveloped locally and developed in Xilan, Shibixia, Yuanqian, Hongshan and other townships. Qijingtang green tea is a green type green tea, which is picked according to the standard of one bud and one leaf, which is no different from the "one shot and one flag" of high-quality Longjing. After four processes of spreading, killing green, kneading and drying, it is said that the tea is "evenly and strongly formed into tea strips, the soup color is green and bright, and the tender fragrance is long-lasting". It's tempting to think about the tea, and I'm looking forward to it. At the beginning of the 1990s, I went to Fu'an to investigate the tea situation, and deliberately stayed in Luoyuan Chengguan, hoping to buy a few bags of long-lost real estate famous green. Unfortunately, after visiting several stores, I didn't know anything about the "Seven Realms Hall Green Tea". I relied on myself, looking carefully at the tea shop tea stall, full of Anxi tea, Fuzhou flower tea, where there are clues of the "Seven Realms Hall". I was not dead-hearted, afterwards still searched for many parties, and then finally heard that a store had Luo Yuan's newly developed green tea, I rushed away with interest, only to find that it was Luo Yuan's "Sencha", and marked the xiamen tea import and export company "seawall" trademark. "Sencha" is a green tea variety favored by the Japanese, and Luoyuan Tea Seems to be making new efforts to earn foreign exchange for exports. A few years ago, I accidentally found the "Seven Realms Hall Green Tea" at a New Century Consumer Expo held in Fuzhou, which is a simple bag of tea from the Seven Mirrors Tea Factory in Luoyuan Xilan Township, and no one cares at all, I bought four bags in one go, which flattered the tea sellers, and it seems that the green gas is so sweet and pleasant that the "Seven Realms Hall" seems to be more and more little known in the dust. In fact, there are many famous teas with a long history that have been redeveloped after interruption, such as the "cactus green tea" in Hubei, which is now full of vitality and prosperity. I hope that the new century will bring new vitality to the "Seven Realms Hall."
Jiangshan Township, Silla District, Longyan City, there are three tea-producing mountain villages - diagonal back, back ocean and Meixi, the altitude is above 1000 meters, the sunshine is short, the clouds are more, on both sides of the mountain, behind the house, there are scattered tea trees, in the special soil and ecological environment, the leaves of the tea tree buds are yellow, every spring, full of trees are yellow, the tea leaves are low in chlorophyll content, and the tea polyphenol content is high, plus a unique double pot slow frying, many times sieved, forming a special tea mugwort, thick taste and fresh olive-like aftertaste. The tea is named "Oblique Back Tea" because the village is the highest altitude in The Village of The Slope is located at the top of the Ten Thousand Mountains. It is said that "the famous tea in western Fujian has now been sold to Xiamen, Guangdong and other places, and sold to Singapore and other places, and is deeply loved by overseas Chinese." "The text is the text of 1992, although it is inappropriate for books such as dictionaries to appear in the tense of "present". As a consumer of green tea in Xiamen, I have been inquiring about this in many ways, and I have finally achieved nothing, at least it shows that the number of "oblique back tea sold to Xiamen" is short. In the eight years after 1992, I went to Longyan six times and never saw any information about "oblique tea". However, before that, as a member of the Xiamen Zhiqing Writers Delegation, I had tasted the best green tea twice in the Longyan Museum Zhang Zhaosheng and the Gutian Conference Memorial Hall, but unfortunately the owner could not say the specific source of the tea, only that it was farmers' tea in the farmers' market. Now it is estimated that it is likely to come from the diagonal back village of the Hidden Dragon and Crouching Tiger. I have already written about these in my essay, "General Green". At present, pollution-free "alpine tea" in Taiwan, Hong Kong, Macao and the coastal areas of south China began to become popular, there are Taiwan businessmen in the source of the Jiulong River - Longyan Silla suburbs of Genting to develop alpine tea, planting, roasting and selling a dragon, named "Genting Alpine Oolong Tea" series, but also affected the wave of planting alpine tea in the left and right mountains, I don't know if the influence is weakened or temporarily in obscurity can "oblique tea" take the opportunity to make a comeback?
Compared with "Nine Mirror Hall" and "Oblique Back Tea", "Nan'an Shiting Green" is more famous, and its long history can be compared with "Anxi Tieguanyin" and "Yongchun Bergamot". Shiting Green, also known as Shiting Tea, is produced in the area of Nine Days Mountain and Lotus Peak in Nan'an. The stone pavilion on Lotus Peak was built in the first year of jiande in the Ming Dynasty (1506). According to legend, the monks of Yanfu Temple at the end of the Song Dynasty found tea trees at Lotus Peak, cultivated them, and picked and roasted them into tea for the monks' use. Due to the good quality of the tea and the production in the ancient temple of Buddhism, the number of drinkers is increasing, and the stone pavilion green is famous. According to the cliff carvings preserved in Jiuri Mountain, this tea has a history of nearly a thousand years, and developed to the Light Years of the Qing Dynasty, dozens of mountains near Lotus Peak have been widely planted by farmers, and Shiting Green has become a gift for relatives and friends from overseas Chinese in Quanzhou, and has since become famous overseas.
The production of Stone Pavilion Green needs to go through eight processes such as light withering, greening, initial kneading, and re-frying, and finally form the characteristics of "three greens and three fragrances". The three greens are "silver gray with green color, clear turquoise in soup color, and bright green at the bottom of the leaves". The three scents are "orchid, mung bean, almond". In 1952, Shiting Green was designated by the Ministry of Agriculture as a famous tea with a long history, and in 1954, Premier Zhou Enlai went to Indonesia to participate in the "Bandung Conference" and used Stone Pavilion Green to entertain friends and journalists from Asian and African countries.
At the beginning of 1990, when I went to Nan'an City, there was no shadow of "Shiting Green" in many tea shops, and the Nan'an tea owners who specialized in tea were extremely unfamiliar with "Stone Pavilion Green". Fengzhou Town, where Shiting Green is planted, is relatively close to Quanzhou City, so in Quanzhou City I also paid attention to it, all of which are pure Anxi tea, and the green tea that is occasionally sold is not Longjing, or Huangshan Cloud, and there is no "Stone Pavilion Green" at all. Soon after, he participated in a commendation meeting for the authors of the Quanzhou Evening News, and happened to live in the same room as Li Jun from Nan'an, and Li Jun told him that Shiting Green was still alive, but the output was very small, and the general farmers kept it for their own use, and the rest was purchased by the pharmaceutical factory and used to produce medicinal Lotus Peak tea pills. These two reasons, far from making me feel relieved, are even more angry. No matter how little green the stone pavilion is, there is no less "big red robe", as long as there is a market, it should be developed.
It is reported that due to the stimulation of green tea can prevent cancer, green tea fever has begun to appear in Office Buildings in Hong Kong, which is a barometer of tea consumption. Fujian tea industry must not let oolong tea a leaf obstacle, revitalize Fujian famous green tea, whether from the historical or realistic, has reached an imminent moment.
2001/7/28
