Xu Haitao
In the 1960s and 1970s, Titus Street was a literal food street. The food that carries the streets and alleys finally settles here, and there is probably no street that can surpass the food of Titus Street.
01
# Fresh sweet and spicy "Dan Dan noodles"
Let's start with the west side of the Palace of Culture. At the turn of Dam Street in the adjacent gun factory is the Snow Garden Restaurant, which sells a variety of sweets, pasta and even drinks.
The west side of the Snow Garden Restaurant is Chengdu's famous snack "Dan Dan Noodles", I liked to eat "Dan Dan Noodles" when I was a child, the noodles of other noodle restaurants are generally two or two bowls, only "Dan Dan Noodles" is one or two bowls, the bowl is very small, but very delicate, the taste is called a fresh fragrance. I remember that a bowl of noodles costs one or two food stamps and a dime, and if you want to eat enough, you may have to eat three bowls.
The reason why the weight of "Dan Dan noodles" is so small is because the early "Dan Dan noodles" neither refer to the taste nor the shape of the noodles, but refers to the way of selling noodles, a flat shoulder picks a boiler, a pick cabinet, dangling slowly, trembling and majestically wandering along the street, selling as you go, eating and doing. Such noodles, generally speaking, are not for the sake of eating, but to beat a tip and make a good taste.
The dough is the soul of the dough, that is, the dough brine or topping. Also known as "crispy noodles", the pork shank meat is chopped into minced meat and made with a little oil to make a sweet noodle sauce.
Then put the pot on the fire, put the oil to heat, roll the minced meat into the hot oil, stir-fry until scattered, then pour in the cooking wine to fry the dry water to remove the fishy taste, then it is salt, pepper, MSG seasoning, and finally put in the right amount of sweet noodle sauce to fry fragrant, when the minced meat appears a tempting brown color, slightly spit oil can be started.
Let's talk about seasoning. There are many seasonings in the bowl of dandan noodles: salt, monosodium glutamate, soy sauce, vinegar, chili oil, sesame oil, sugar, crushed rice sprouts, green onions and a little fresh soup, and some people prefer to put some ground peanuts and sesame powder to add flavor.
It sounds like a lot of trouble, let alone doing it, but that's what makes The Chef of Sichuan excel. High in the use of taste to stimulate your taste buds, with taste to attract your appetite, really let people eat can not forget; the magic is in the many seasoning raw materials cluttered combination, but unexpectedly harmonious unity, one taste set off another taste, one taste is better than one taste.
02
# Crystal clear "Pearl Yuanzi"
To the west of the Noodle Restaurant is the Pearl Motoko Shop, whose predecessor, Guyue Hu Sanhe Ni, operated here for a short time. Pearl Motoko is a special Sichuan-style delicacy, named because it is wrapped in a layer of glutinous rice on the surface, and when steamed, the rice grains are round and full, crystal bright, and resemble pearls. Crystal clear pearl yuanzi, dipped in sticky rice grains, decorated with red five plum blossoms, to distinguish between sweet and salty taste, very tempting!
The history of Pearl Yuanzi is much earlier than that of Dan Dan noodles, and it first appeared in a Sichuan cuisine table in Chengdu more than a hundred years ago, stored in an old account book of Li Jieren's family, and was copied and recorded by Mr. Li many years later, and now I have the privilege of witnessing it.
The list was made in 1836 when Mr. Li was dealing with a white affair, and the pearl yuanzi was ranked among the nine major dishes, and combined with the thorny ginseng hoof flower, fish belly, watercress pigeon egg, etc. to form a high-standard Qing Dynasty Sichuan cuisine feast.
The pearl yuanzi shop in Chengdu was founded by Zhang Herong, who was good at white cases, especially pearl yuanzi, and began to set up stalls in the east street of Chengdu Zhonglie Ancestral Hall in the early years of the Republic of China.
In 1919, Zhang Herong, who had a certain amount of savings, bought a shop in the West Street of the Martyrs' Shrine and opened a pearl yuanzi restaurant, selling pearl yuanzi, eight treasure porridge and other flavored foods. After liberation, after a public-private partnership, it moved to Titus Street.
03
# Unique Titus Street Sichuan cuisine and tempeh
In the past, it was a popular group canteen, and later the well-known husband and wife lung tablets were operated here.
"Husband and wife lung tablets" I have introduced in the article "The Taste of the Tip of the Tongue & The Art of Life, The Memory of Half-Side Bridge South Street", which will not be repeated here.
Mencius has clouds: the mouth is also in taste, there is the same appetite; the ear is also in the sound, there is the same hearing; the eye is also in the color, there is the same beauty. Don't the world have the same preferences for delicious food, good sounds and delicate faces!
The name of the Sichuan tempeh famous shop "Mouth with Love" is derived from this, and the characters are clear and righteous, and Sven is decent. And the word "love" in ancient times also had the meaning of tempeh, Liu Xi's "Interpretation of the Name": 豉, 豉也. It's more plausible and well deserved. Just looking at the signboard, Chengdu's traditional sauce garden, which once specialized in tempeh, is commendable.
The predecessor of Kou Tongyu was a small workshop, founded in 1913 by Liao Dawu, a native of Chengdu, and later succeeded by Zhou Houfu at Titus Street, specializing in the production and sale of tempeh. Zhou's tempeh is well-made, the production is moist and shiny, the seeds are scattered into grains, the entrance is softened and slagd, the fresh aroma is sweet, and it is welcomed by the neighbors.
In the early 1950s, seven sauce gardens, including Kou Tong Shu And Tai He, HongFa Chang, Lao Tong Xing, Sheng Sheng Sauce Garden, Datong Sauce Garden, and Mao Sheng Yuan, were identified as the key households in Chengdu's brewing industry, and after the public-private partnership in 1956, they were changed to Kou Tong Yu Brewery. In 1966, the KoutongYu Brewery was merged into the Taihe Brewery and renamed chengdu Vegetable Company Second Brewery.
This family is just west of the aforementioned "military shadow". Across the street from "Junying" there is also a well-known Qilu canteen, which is a large restaurant and is famous for its Lu cuisine that has been Sichuanized with some Sichuan flavor.
I remember that Shandong Roasted Bun used to operate in qilu canteen for a period of time, and then stopped at the Chen Ma Po side of West Yulong Street to open a shop.
There is also a mutton soup restaurant near Taiping Street in the east of the Cultural Palace (the current Taisheng South Road is the original Taiping Street).
With the taste of Beijing and Su, 369 is just south of the street entrance, and its business of large meat noodles, large noodles and broth balls is unique, eat a bowl, the whole body is comfortable, at that time was considered to have the effect of moisturizing the stomach and intestines.
04
# Cold snack "Sea-style buns"
The mutton soup restaurant was relocated to Jade Street around the end of the 1960s, and this site is continued to be operated by Chuannan Maodu. Around the corner is a barber shop, close to the People's Bank of China Savings Office and the PBOC Admiral Street Branch. Next to the branch office was a large consignment house, which was later renamed the Municipal Waste Materials Company Outlet Department, which was later known as the Huamei Commercial Company.
The consignment store is adjacent to an alley, which was once listed as chengdu city bank school, adjacent to a halal Muslim canteen and a dakelou candy and pastry shop.
Da Ke Lou is a famous dim sum shop in Chengdu in the early years, the Republic of China was a pastry workshop produced and sold by the former shop and the back shop, and in the 1850s it was incorporated into the Chengdu Wenhua Food Factory, which became one of the main stores of the factory, selling all kinds of candies and pastries, canned drinks and flavored foods, the most famous of which is its signature feature - the unforgettable Sea-style buns.
Mr. He Yunruo's "Bamboo Branch Words of Jincheng Old Things" has a saying: "The bun cold food is innovative, the name hu hai style smells along the street, do not see the high-rise buildings know the big thing, and the micro things are actually loved by the people of the city." "It is said that the bun of the Da ke Lou Hai style, because the production method is particularly cold, which is a pioneering work in the catering industry at that time." In the phrase "no tall building", the big building actually had a building before, and there was more than one floor.
05
# Crispy meat tender "camphor tea duck"
On the east side of Da Ke Lou, at the intersection of the south side of the mouth of TheOdok East Street and the Summer Socks Street, there is also the "Rat Cave" Zhang Duck, the camphor tea duck in the shop is one of the classic traditional dishes of Sichuan Province, which belongs to Sichuan cuisine, a kind of smoked duck, which is exquisitely produced and extremely strict. Although the store façade is narrow, it is famous far and wide, and even if you stand far away, you can be hooked by the aroma wafting out of the water.
Hidden behind the delicacy is the production method, the production of camphor tea duck seems to be unremarkable, but every step is a great wisdom. Authentic camphor tea duck must be made by four processes: pickling, smoking, brine and frying.
Because of the addition of camphor leaves and camphor wood chips to the smoked materials, this innovation was loved by people, and the business slowly prospered.
In the early years of the Republic of China, there was also a tea house at the mouth of Chengdu's Titus Street, which people jokingly called the Rat Cave. Zhang Shi, the founder of "Rat Dong Camphor Tea Duck", set up a stall there to sell ducks. It is actually just a sales point, mainly selling "camphor tea duck" and other pickled foods, and the workshop is located in Guloudong Street, and the smoked duck is pulled over by tricycle every day.
Next to Zhang Duck is the "Food Time Restaurant". When eating the restaurant to Sichuan cuisine as the main hit, the impression is particularly deep is the hall shouting hall, the voice is loud, full of breath, from the name of the dish to the price, from the transmission of vegetables to the checkout, almost in one go, attracting the applause of the whole hall, and now this shouting hall skill has been almost lost, it is a pity.
06
# Stuffed with thick juice "bell dumplings"
Diagonally opposite the restaurant is the "Zhong Shui Dumplings", which is said to have been created in 1893 by a hawker named Zhong Xie Sen, who later set up a shop in Lychee Lane and moved to Titus Street.
Because of the "bell dumplings" seasoning heavy red oil, also known as "Lychee Lane red oil dumplings". Bell dumplings are absolutely in the selection of ingredients, the magic is in the seasoning. The red oil is made of Chengdu "two tendon strips" red pepper noodles, which are refined with vegetable oil; the soy sauce is made of special copied soy sauce, with garlic juice water, sesame oil and other spices, which are cleverly combined.
The fragrant spices, bright red color, and the umami flavor of the full filling are matched to form a sichuan-style style with many flavors.
The feast of the world, the food of Admiral Street, and first introduced here.