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Sichuan cuisine fun talk: the legend of sauce aroma drip fragrant

author:Gluttony to the east

Folk common way: open the door seven things, oil salt chai rice sauce vinegar tea. In Prachuap Khiri Khan, every household has a condiment that is indispensable, that is, soy sauce. Without it, the dish is not fragrant, the taste is not beautiful, and it is not suitable to eat anything. It can be seen that this soy sauce is the tip of the tongue of the Sichuan people, and the mistress on the table. Don't say that we Sichuan people are good at this bite, and even foodies in other parts of the country have a fondness for soy sauce! It is believed that the vast majority of middle-aged and elderly people have played soy sauce in the sauce garden when they were young. The reason why I like to play soy sauce is because I can eat 'soy sauce bibimbap'. Therefore, "delicious but soy sauce rice" has become a delicacy in the era of tuberculosis and widowhood at any time, and it is even more beautiful in the baby's mouth to call 'oil rice, soy sauce rice'. Don't look at this is just a folk saying that has been circulating in the land of Bashu for a hundred years, its connotation is very deep, and it often makes people feel moved. The people of Shudi still have a taste, which can be said to start from "oil and oil rice". 'Soy sauce rice' and 'oily rice' undoubtedly vividly show the 'performance art' and 'food feelings' of Sichuan people in the pursuit of eating, as well as the sincere worship and respect for ecological ingredients and their attributes.

Sichuan cuisine fun talk: the legend of sauce aroma drip fragrant

Delicious soy sauce bibimbap from childhood

Sauce, also known as the general, "Saucer, the general of the taste, the general of the taste, the general of the taste." "The ancients listed sauce as the first, as the first seasoning. It can be seen that for thousands of years, sauce is indispensable for three meals a day. As early as 3,000 years ago, there were records of sauce making in the Zhou Dynasty. There is already a saying of "hundred sauces" in the "Zhou Li". At the beginning of the sauce, the ancients called it 'xi' (xi) and 'hai', which is actually a meat sauce, which is a very important supplementary food, not a seasoning. Old Master Kong once said, "Don't let it be sauced, don't eat it." That is to say, the ancients ate sauce is very exquisite, but also very elegant, eat beef, mutton, pork, chicken, fish, etc., must be equipped with appropriate sauce. Since then, the sauce has gradually evolved into a variety of sauces for seasoning, and the development of various sauces is now colorful and flavorful.

The emergence of soy sauce began in the Song Dynasty, the reason why it is called soy sauce, it refers to the general of the taste, such as oil like grease, moisturizing aroma, so the name soy sauce. By the Qing Dynasty, various soy sauce workshops throughout China were fragrant, including mushrooms, golden hooks, soy sauce, fat, soy sauce, soy sauce, soy sauce, soy sauce, white soy sauce, red soy sauce and other soy sauce. At the same time, the extraction of soy sauce also began to be called 'pumping', light color, light taste, thin is 'raw soy sauce', fermented by sun dew, heavy color, thick taste, thick those are 'old soy sauce'.

Sichuan cuisine fun talk: the legend of sauce aroma drip fragrant

Sun and night dew

In the process of development, soy sauce is also called "clear sauce", "sauce", "soy sauce". Its main raw materials are tan liquids made of soybeans, wheat, etc., through steaming, mixing, mixing, stepping on the pool, pouring the embryo, fermentation and other processes. According to the different production methods, soy sauce is divided into natural fermented soy sauce, artificial fermented soy sauce and blended soy sauce (chemical soy sauce, which has been prohibited). Natural fermentation soy sauce is the use of microorganisms in the air for fermentation, the finished product has a unique flavor, fresh flavor and alcohol, thick color and thick sauce, the best quality, but because of the large consumption of raw materials and low yield, long cycle, so in addition to less mass production for special needs, more than not large batch production. On the basis of this crude oil, after adding distilled water and an appropriate amount of salt dilution, after a certain period of stirring, drying, dew, that is, the second fermentation, this soy sauce is "first-class soy sauce", so that it is decomposed and diluted, that is, second-level, third-level soy sauce.

And artificial fermentation soy sauce is made by artificial koji, heated fermentation, its process is divided into low-salt solid fermentation and unsalted solid fermentation two, now the general use of low-salt solid fermentation process, this method production cycle is short, high yield, protein content is also higher, although its quality is not as good as natural fermentation soy sauce, but its flavor, color, taste and nutritional components can meet the requirements of eating and cooking. There are many types of soy sauce, but the quality requirements are all reddish brown, crystal and delicious, with the aroma of sauce balsam, fresh and mellow, soft and long taste is better. In cooking, it plays a role in flavoring, coloring, freshening and promoting incense.

Sichuan cuisine fun talk: the legend of sauce aroma drip fragrant

Traditional brewing process

In daily use, soy sauce is also divided into light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, and sweet red soy sauce. Light soy sauce is also called natural soy sauce, primary color soy sauce, white soy sauce, and soy sauce. The finished product has a natural production in the fermentation process is color and fresh flavor, the color is lighter, thinner, weak adhesion, mostly used for cold mix vegetables and saucer dipping sauce.

Dark soy sauce, also known as thick soy sauce, salty red soy sauce, dark soy sauce. It is based on the original light-colored soy sauce, and then exposed by the sun and night to make it increase color and thicken, and the finished product is dark, thick and adhesion. In addition to seasoning and flavoring, there is also the role of coloring in cooking, excess cooking, stir-frying, stew and some cold dishes, dumplings in snacks, noodles in the seasoning to enhance color.

Sweet red soy sauce, also known as sweet soy sauce, is also made from soybeans and made with brown sugar, caramel, salt, spices, and koji. It has the characteristics of deep color, thick sauce, salty, sweet and delicious, and rich flavor. Sichuan cuisine is mostly used for some poultry meat processing and coloring, but also for cold dishes and snack seasoning, such as garlic white meat, sweet water surface and so on. Teachers in the industry also often use light soy sauce with brown sugar and spices to boil in the pot, called copy soy sauce or copy sweet red soy sauce, and its flavor taste is also good.

Sichuan cuisine fun talk: the legend of sauce aroma drip fragrant

Soy sauce supermarket each cast their favorite

There is a way: Sichuan people speak Sichuan dialect, Sichuan flavor with Sichuan materials, in order to make authentic Sichuan cuisine, reflecting regional characteristics and customs. Soy sauce and soy sauce are known as "Sichuan special seasonings" in Sichuan cuisine cooking, such as Zigongjing salt, Langzhong vinegar, Wenjiangwo oil, Zhongbakou mushroom soy sauce, Pixian douban, Yongchuan, Tongchuan tempeh, Mumashan Erjing pepper, Hanyuan peppercorns, Sichuan kimchi, Yibin sprouts, Zizhong winter vegetables, Fuling squeezed vegetables, etc. In terms of soy sauce alone, in the past, There were Chengdu Taihe soy sauce, Dawang soy sauce, Xipu soy sauce, Wenjiang soy sauce, Deyang soy sauce and Zhongba soy sauce, which were widely used in Sichuan cuisine. Different ingredients, cooking methods, flavor types, as well as processing and coloring, seasoning, etc., which kind of soy sauce is used, have strict requirements to highlight the flavor characteristics of the dish. Like braised pork, cherry meat, pot meat, salted white meat, garlic white meat, sweet water noodles, red oil dumplings, dan dan noodles, dipped water saucer and so on.

Sichuan cuisine fun talk: the legend of sauce aroma drip fragrant

Dripping fragrant and delicious and long

Drip wo oil aromatic far-reaching

Wenjiang District is the central urban area of Chengdu, located in the hinterland of tianfu country, surrounded by four rivers, flat terrain, thousands of streams, since ancient times, water and drought from people, do not know hunger, known as "Jinwen River" reputation. Wenjiang has four distinct seasons, no heat in summer, no severe cold in winter, and it is precisely because of its unique climate and natural conditions that the soy sauce brewed here will have a unique taste.

According to the "Records of Wenjiang County", during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty (about 1744, more than 260 years so far), Zheng Yuzhao and Peng Yongnian, people from Jinxi County, Jiangxi, opened the Quansheng and Haitianchun sauce gardens in Wenjiang Chengguan. Mainly produce soy sauce, bran vinegar, watercress, sweet sauce and other products. Open the history of the production of condiments in Wenjiang, Wenjiang is also the earliest region in China to produce condiments such as soy sauce and watercress. Because of its unique process, also known as nest oil or dripping oil, it has a history of more than 270 years. During the Republic of China, wenjiang sauce garden industry gradually developed, there are many products, of which the dripping oil color and fragrance are good, is the traditional famous product of Wenjiang. The unique "hot spring brand" nest oil, also known as "Wenjiang white soy sauce", is famous in Western Sichuan. It has become one of the oldest recorded condiment production areas in China. In 2009, Wenjiangwo oil was identified as an intangible cultural heritage project of Chengdu.

Sichuan cuisine fun talk: the legend of sauce aroma drip fragrant

Long time Wenjiang soy sauce

Wenjiang drip wo oil is mainly based on soybeans, wheat as the material ratio of soybeans accounted for 70% wheat accounted for 30%, soybeans are generally Wenjiang soybeans, and then also selected Northeast soybeans. In the process, the soybeans are first soaked and then ground into a granular mixture together with the wheat to ensure that the mixture is mixed evenly, and the mixture is put into a wooden barrel and heated and boiled, and the steaming is generally about two hours when the temperature reaches 110 degrees Celsius, and the barrel is cool. To 32 degrees Celsius, use a dustpan device to the koji making room for kojimaking. Koji is a natural koji-making and is fermented by beneficial strains in the air. In the fermentation process, the temperature of the koji room should be controlled at about 32 degrees Celsius, the temperature is too high to be ventilated and cooled immediately, and when the temperature is low, the bar charcoal is boiled with water vapor to heat up, and then the natural production of Aspergillus oryzali is exposed, and the general koji making time is one week. After the koji is submerged, a warm brine with a concentration of 20% (the water temperature is close to the natural temperature) is added to the koji and mixed.

Sichuan cuisine fun talk: the legend of sauce aroma drip fragrant

Aspergillus mixed with artificial fermentation

After mixing, it is placed in a special tank for dew drying. During the daytime drying process, it is necessary to carry out tanning and stirring every day, and the night dew is infiltrated by the water vapor in the air, and the entire dew drying process depends on the weather conditions, usually 6-8 months. When the color of the koji is exposed to a dark brown, the koji is even if the dew is completed, and then the koji is collected in a large wooden barrel for storage until the koji is rehydrated, and the liquid leached out of the koji is slowly soaked into the nest through the proprietary hole of the barrel, so it is called "drip nest oil". The unique process of Wenjiang Wo Oil is closely related to the geography, climate and water source of Wenjiang River, which is a process that cannot be used in other regions, with unique regional and environmental characteristics, and cannot be copied. After testing, Wenjiang soy sauce is rich in 17 kinds of beneficial ingredients such as amino acids, proteins, sugars, and B vitamins that the human body must have. It has the characteristics of rich nutrition, mellow sauce, delicious color, rich aroma, strong texture, appetizing fitness, and long-term storage, and other similar products cannot be surpassed.

Sichuan cuisine fun talk: the legend of sauce aroma drip fragrant

Drip nest oil drip juice into a pulp

Wenjiang soy sauce's unique brewing technology represents the natural, natural environmental protection, green production process and the Taoist method of the unity of nature and man. It is precisely in this way that at a time when we are increasingly advocating a healthy lifestyle, Wenjiang wo oil can not only satisfy our taste buds, but also be highly compatible with the green development of the new era. The Chinese nation has created a long-standing Chinese culture, bashan Shu water has bred the endless Bashu civilization, Wenjiang soy sauce is also in the inheritance and development of history, in accordance with its own historical and cultural literacy, the growth of a greener, more environmentally friendly Shudi exclusive cultural code and birthmark, for the "Tianfu taste" to add a unique and rich local charm.

Slow tasting, tasting the 4,000 years of bashu taste culture, and experiencing wenjiang's two-hundred-year sauce making process: steaming, koji making, fermentation, sun lotion, seasoning, etc., let people have a deep experience of 'ingenuity', 'unique ingenuity' and 'ingenuity'. Wenjiangwo oil color is red but not bright, bright but not dizzy; the sauce is rich, the ester is mellow, sweet but not thick, light but not thin, the taste is mellow, the aftertaste is lingering, the teeth and cheeks are fragrant, it can be described as a three-day twisting, once tasted, the taste is lifelong. It can be seen that soy sauce is undoubtedly the proud son of Chinese cooking and food culture, inheriting thousands of years of thick food customs and customs, and is the secret of cooking love, seasoning grains and three meals, and adding to the taste of food.

Sichuan cuisine fun talk: the legend of sauce aroma drip fragrant

Naturally brewed, delicious and natural

Deputy Editor-in-Chief of the Editorial Board of "Sichuan Province Chronicle • Sichuan Cuisine Chronicle" Sichuan Cuisine Culture Person Sichuan Cuisine Contributor

Author of "A Hundred Years of Sichuan Cuisine Legend", "The History of Sichuan Cuisine on the Roadside", and "Three Hundred Years of Spicy Hemp Temptation"

Original Graphics · Jianghu Gluttony East 2019.09.08 Chengdu