Modern Icon: Vol.32
Born in Mantua, Italy in 1950, Franca Sosani studied literature and philosophy and served as editor-in-chief of Vogue from 1988 until her death. In addition to her role as editor-in-chief, she is also a curator, writer and philanthropist, and sadly, she died of illness in Milan on Thursday at the age of 66.
Franca Sausani, editor-in-chief of the Italian edition of Vogue
Looking at Franka's life, it can be said that she has been awarded the Medal of Honor by French President Sarkozy and is also the United Nations Ambassador of Friendship, but the biggest praise is undoubtedly the change she made to the Italian version of Vogue, and it can be said that the Italian version of "Vogue" she is in charge of is the most acclaimed version.
Sarkozy awarded Franke the Medal of Honor
Perhaps for most people, fashion is nothing more than clothes, shoes and bags, but in Franka's eyes, the definition of fashion is far from being so simple, but a way to gain insight into life and lead social progress. Franke once said: "Fashion is not only about clothes, but about life", in her nearly thirty years at the helm of Vogue, she has successively thrown out one argument after another based on fashion and beyond fashion, which has caused great controversy several times.
She has made race a hot topic of social discussion
For example, the fashion circle is always linked to "racial discrimination", even if the promotion of diversity now, more than 90% of the models on the catwalk are white, but as early as 2008, Franke launched the "All Black Special Issue", boldly filling every page of the magazine with black models, so that the world paid attention to the weak position of black models in the fashion industry. This is not only an attempt to lead the world's "Vogue", but also a pioneering achievement that mainstream magazines have never had, and the journal has since been reprinted three times, confirming that "having an attitude" can also make the magazine sell out, rather than just entertaining the public.
Black Special Issue 2008
"Black Special" is an internal fashion blockbuster
For the first time, she discovered the powerful influence of reality TV stars
Franka's vision extends even beyond that of "Witch Head" Anna Wintur, who recognized the power of reality TV stars back in 2012 when she enabled Kim Kardashian to appear on the cover of L'Uomo Vogue (Vogue Men's Magazine), two years after Winthur did so.
In 2012, Kardashian appeared on the cover of L'Uomo Vogue
Kardashian's L'Uomo Vogue fashion blockbuster
She put the "plastic surgery issue" on the table 11 years ago
In 2005, Franke launched the famous July issue of "Makeover Madness", when the cover and the inside page blockbuster had become a classic, in which supermodel Linda Evangelista, with a white cloth wrapped around her head, striding forward with her head held high under the support of the model, seemed to hint at hollywood actresses' morbid attachment to plastic surgery. In fact, there is a reason for this theme, at the Cannes Awards ceremony in May of that year, Sarah Stone's suddenly youthful face was suspected of being plastic surgery, and it is said that during the recovery period, she was staying at the Carlysle Hotel, which was the location of the filming of this series.
Cover of the July 2005 issue of "Makeover Madness"
"Makeover Madness" fashion blockbuster
She used fashion to attack domestic violence
In 2014, Franke linked fashion to domestic violence, saying: "In a small country like Italy, 130 women died last year (2013) by him... It's not about men, it's about how women defend themselves. And the fashion blockbusters of that year perfectly interpreted her arguments, the model lying in a pool of blood, the cold man sitting in the shadows in the distance, and the blood stained on his body, so that fashion transcended the boundaries of dressing and dressing, and promoted to a powerful way to reflect social problems.
Cover of "Domestic Violence" in 2014
"Domestic Violence" fashion blockbuster
It can be said that the organic combination of current affairs and fashion is Franke's most bullish point, but she also has a skill, that is, to discern people, for example, all the above famous fashion blockbusters that perfectly expound her views, the camera is led by steven Meisel, the master photographer she pulled up.
When Franka first met Steven Meisel, he was only a photographer for a second-rate magazine, and then under Franke's promotion, he gradually rose to prominence, until he became the leading master of photography. The two began working together from Franke's first Vogue cover, and for nearly three decades, Steven Meisel covered almost every Italian Vogue cover!
Master photographer Steven Meisel
Part of the Italian vogue cover, shot by Steven Meisel:
The 1993 Italian edition of Vogue by Steven Meisel in May
The December issue of the 2002 Italian edition of Vogue by Steven Meisel
The 2010 Italian edition of Vogue is published in the August issue by Steven Meisel
In addition, the master photographers who were hand-picked by Franca are Mario Testino, Paolo Roversi, Herb Ritts, Peter Lindbergh, Bruce Weber...
Under Franke's leadership, the Italian version of Vogue has gradually become the most unique vogue magazine, with no eye-catching headlines, no fashionable articles, and not even obvious column settings! Instead, there's a free-flowing theme on each issue cover, as well as occasional gifts of top photographers or product brochures.
Interpreting fashion from an "unpopular point of view" and using magazines to focus on social issues is an important feature that distinguishes Franka from others, she once said: "I will listen to the voices of others, but I must go out of my own way", it is precisely in the chaotic world that she insists on herself, so that her magazine still stands proudly under the impact of new media, deeply rooted in attitude, and is even known as "the most discerning" and "prophetic" fashion magazine.
Now that Franca has passed away and the Italian version of Vogue will be reshuffled, where will this big magazine go in the future? It can only be confirmed by time.