Those are called dumplings, but they are not the kind of dumplings we are familiar with.
1. Dumplings are fake when they are made
Dumpling noodle shops in Dongtai, Jiangsu Province, some use clam nose to boil soup, dumplings (actually wontons) under the soup, the following master picked up two thin bamboo tubes on the side of the stove, a hand, two red and a white thin line fell in the noodle bowl, red is shrimp seeds, white is small pepper.
There is no difference between boiling dumpling noodles and boiling noodles, both are a large pot of wide soup, dumplings cook slowly, first down. "Taizhou Evening News" supplement reporter wrote: "The water that boils dumpling noodles is filled with most of the pot, which can be used repeatedly, commonly known as big soup, the noodles cooked in the family are not delicious outside, it is very related to not being a big soup, and the big soup should be equipped with a fierce fire, so some stores have installed a blower at the mouth of the stove." ”
Red and white, is the main color of Jiangnan noodle shop, boiled dumpling noodles red soup is the bottom of the boiled shrimp seed soy sauce, white soup is with eel bones or pork bone hanging soup, or fish soup, boiled fish soup gelatin is extremely heavy, fell on the table to condense into a grain, sprinkled with a little green garlic flower, and Su embroidery, full of splendid embroidery, red with green, the table is full of joy.
Huzhou lamb is good, the lamb dumpling noodles in Xinshi Ancient Town, the table is also a dark red color, a careful end, which is not dumplings, but a regularly cut lamb, the size is evenly placed in the bowl, lamb tripe, lamb liver, and the layer of meat with the skin of the burnt crispy skin are stacked together, separated from the noodles, slightly exposing the mounds on top of the red soup, trance looks like dumplings.
The same is true for duck dumplings, which are cut into a uniformly sized shape and eaten with a bowl of bare noodles.
Guangdong also has "pseudo dumplings", the name is also called dumpling noodles, in fact, just the noodles and no filling, the important thing is to eat meat, beat the meat into a meat pulp, brush on the side of the hot pot, blanched with the temperature of the pot wall, and then into the noodles, pork offal into the soup, the dynamic process of light looks pleasant.
In fact, as long as you think in your heart that it is a dumpling, it is a dumpling. All the concepts that are formed in the world are nothing but illusions.
2. I confess that I have gone through vicissitudes
The "Yangzhou Painting Record" writes: My hometown tea shop, A in the world. This book is the work of Li Dou, who had no official position in his life and wrote for thirty years. "Taste three to western Guangdong, seven tours to Fujian and Zhejiang, one to Chuyu, and two to Beijing."
This experience is similar to Wang Zengqi, he also wrote books, traveled in all directions, and also became a late bloomer, and many years later, he wrote about the dumpling noodles of the monks in his hometown of Wu Da, using "jumping noodles": "Insert the wooden bar in the hole, place the noodle case, and the wooden bar is pressed on a large piece of the face that is extremely hard to live, and the person sits on the wooden bar and repeatedly presses this side." "Such noodles are put together with dumplings and sold for one hundred and twenty yuan a bowl, that is, twelve as ten copper dollars.
Foreign journalists filmed "camel bearers", boiled wontons,
It is an ancient version of the one-piece movable kitchen.
Weibo netizen "Fushengji Bookstore" said that during the epidemic, Yangzhou people can not eat the morning tea of the restaurant, can not take a bath in the old bath to pedicure, this situation caused his 91-year-old grandfather to recall, said that even in the war years, and the most difficult 60s, Yangzhou city still has to eat morning tea, bathhouse.
Gonghechun and Jiangjiaqiao are old shops that provide dim sum and dumplings, and the first impression of many Yangzhou people for dumplings is that their parents take them to sit in the shop hall of Jiangjiaqiao, asking for a three-diced bag and a dumpling noodle.
In Gaoyou, if you want to eat dumpling noodles, the locals recommend going to Jiaojia Lane, in a row of old buildings, find the pink Side Spring bath, opposite is the Jiaojia Lane Noodle Restaurant, where there is a large stove with firewood.
This shop, the legend is from the Guangxu years to the present, between the ravioli and noodles, are a long memory, and then a pu bao meat, a bowl of soy milk, you really feel the taste of vicissitudes.
The soul of dumpling noodles is black pepper, and a Taizhou writer recalls that a dumpling shop said that at that time, pepper was also served with bamboo tubes with stoppers. "Villagers who usually don't frequent often pull the first stopper, while regular customers or people who can taste it pull the second stopper." Originally, the first section was half fried noodles and half pepper, and the second section was pure pepper. ”
It can be said that "watch people under the pepper".
3. The warmth of human feelings occurs in the early morning of Gangnam
On this rainy morning, someone braved the rain to go out and return, bought dumplings from downstairs that they wanted to eat, and placed them hot on the table, which was a kind of concern.
Yangzhou, Taizhou, Dongtai, Gaoyou these places, breakfast near the home to solve is a very natural thing, at home can not cook the taste of the store.
Traditionally, it has its own truth. Jiangnan area is prosperous, breakfast began to consume is a habit since the Ming and Qing dynasties, early business is related to the luck of the day, so the boss attaches the most importance to breakfast, spare no effort.
In addition to drinking tea, there are also drinking habits in the morning, so the tea house can not only drink, but also eat.
Yang Yiyi, prosperous since ancient times, look at the records of the Republic of China period: customers enter the door, "running hall" smiling face greeting, inviting guests to sit in, handing a fragrant hot towel to wipe the noodles, holding fragrant tea, and then asking for needs; immediately after leaving the table, there is a hot towel to wipe the face, and the smile is sent to each other. In addition to drinking tea with "dried ginger", there are also a variety of snack plates with tea: melon seeds, peanuts, orchid petals (oil-fried silkworm watercress), oil beans, crispy shrimp, rotten fish, hooves, ham and so on.
Catering to diners, the pattern is renovated, and with the change of seasons, the "cover toppings" of the varieties of flowers are constantly introduced: spring "wind chicken cover toppings" and "ham cover toppings"; summer "hoof cover toppings"; autumn "crab yellow noodles" (crab yellow with chicken leg cover pouring); winter "(hoof, ham, chicken slices, diced chicken, chicken shredded) cover toppings", "wild duck cover toppings", as well as tea shoots, cooked shoots, sesame oil noodles.
As early as the middle of the nineteenth century, the tea house had the tradition of "takeaway" early, providing customers with "pick-up boxes" (hand-carried), "shoulder-picked", and sent fish soup noodles, snacks, and small dishes to the door.
Gangnam is the land of fish and rice, and business is flourishing. High-class teahouses can be chartered to solve civil lawsuits without resorting to the law. In the past, when farmers went to the city to sell rice, the bosses of the business would not treat them as subordinates and drink them, but would invite them to the tea house to drink morning tea, meat buns and dumplings.
4. "Ya Hui" so far
The prosperity of Gangnam creates a leisurely life. Dim sum is naturally the fine and good of Yangzhou, and now it is also said: "Huaiyang fine point". Eating morning tea in a tea house is a leisurely morning, and in addition to a pot of tea, dumpling noodles, crab yellow buns, boiled dried silk, roasted and sold, mille-feuille cakes, etc. can be ordered. In the past, the mouth ate, the ears could not be idle, Kunqu opera, commentary, Yangzhou commentary, "Romance of the Three Kingdoms", "Qingfeng Gate"... Pour it into your ears.
It's not so laid back today, but the pace is still slow. Dumpling noodles have thick and thin, thin old people like to eat, the elderly eat breakfast place, the whole rhythm can not be fast. In the ancient town of Xinshi, where lamb dumpling noodles are served, a bowl of noodles for breakfast can also be served with rice wine.
You can also eat at night, take a bath, eat dumplings sent by the boss outside, and lie comfortably on the chair, this state, Yangzhou colloquialism is called "Ya Hui".
Circulating nursery rhymes: Jinhua ham Zhenjiang (meat), salted water box sprinkled with peppercorns, assorted pickle sesame oil pouring, fragrant rice porridge viscose glue. After dinner, I want to supper, a bowl of lotus seed soup, fresh and replenishing. Sleep until early in the morning.
This is "Ya Hui", after work to drive home not to go upstairs, sit in the car for a while, you can also say "Ya Hui".
In the "Yangzhou Painting Record", it is recorded that the tea houses in Yangzhou have their own interests, the wild fun of thatched doors outside the city, and the rich gardens in the city as shops.
Today's Yangzhou, Yangzhou State Guest House's Fun Garden is close to Slender West Lake, there are also garden scenes, Four Bridges Smoke and Rain Building, Cong Gui Pavilion, Chengbi Building. However, since becoming an Internet celebrity shop, it has to queue up every morning, and the mood of Ya Hui has disappeared.
5. Food is always the public's decision
Taizhou, Dongtai, Yangzhou, gaoyou all eat dumpling noodles, and the small shops on the street are very simple shops. With a red KT board, write the types sold in the store on it, there is no fancy: "Yangchun noodles, beef noodles, snow vegetable meat noodles, dry mix noodles, dumpling noodles..."
There are so many people in the shop, in the mom-and-pop shop, one person is responsible for cooking noodles and wontons, and the other person is responsible for making omelettes. Everyone goes to eat the same things, plus at most a little water pepper on the table.
The price of dumpling noodles is cheap, and some shops divide into two stalls, that is, slightly larger wontons, called "sparrow heads". In fact, it is not much bigger, in general, ten wontons, two or two sides, is enough to survive a morning. Can be made into dry mix noodles.
But it's just that simple food that attracts generations of people.
At the door of Yangzhou's "Republican Spring", a reporter from Next Weekly reported that an aunt who had watched a bicycle for 50 years had been guarding the parking lot here since 1971, and in her memory, the dumplings of "Republican Spring" rose from the initial 8 cents a bowl to 5.5 yuan a bowl. People come here on bicycles, eat a familiar bowl of shrimp seed dumplings, and take a bite of a fresh meat pot sticker.
In the morning, the most people, bicycles can not be stacked, mainly the elderly, at noon, it is the young people who work nearby, and at night, the feast on the second floor box is mostly, but it is certainly not as good as the flow of people during the day.
In this city, the most affordable people are the most. And the aunt's own money to see the car rose from the initial few points to a dime, and finally stayed at 4 cents.
Even if there are always people on social media who complain that these old brands are not delicious, the public will always be those who don't speak much on social media, they use their feet, bicycles, and vote for the taste. Only by grabbing their stomachs can they do it for a hundred years.
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