Author: Chen Yajun
As if still asleep, the sound of birdsong pounding on the window ledge one after another, or melodious and pleasant, or long and short tones. Flocks of birds chirp and chirp. Although he was awakened by life, the sound seemed to have been washed with water, and it was not annoying. Opening the window, the smell of grass and trees came to the nose, and the figures of several birds jumped between the branches and leaves, cutting the dawn between the trees more and more brightly, and more birds may have dived into the deep branches and leaves to feed. This is the early morning of the Pu'er Wanpao Mountain Forest Farm.
Walking on the cobbled path, looking up, thousands of clouds fluttering in the blue sky seemed to be within reach, responding to Li Bai's sentence "It should be the heavenly immortals who are drunk and crush the white clouds." Looking around, the plants are dense, the variety is numerous, the eyes are overwhelmed, and the exotic flowers and trees are all over the mountains. Towering trees plunge straight into the clouds, patches of Simao pine emit a unique fragrance, and roadside flowers and trees are lined up or in pieces, blooming colorful flowers. Particularly common is an arm-thick dwarf camellia tree, with a strong and upright main branch, no straggles, a rounded canopy, and thick leaves at the lower end, holding up large flowers that bloom freely in the upper half. A small wind blew through, and the canopy shook its head, which was really stunning. These exotic flowers and trees grow together huddled side by side, as if they were somewhat extravagant, and any of them were placed in the courtyard to the north, and they did not know how much admiration they had to keep. I remembered the first time I saw camellias at the flower market in Beijing, and immediately paid a heart-wrenching price to move home a pot, and I didn't live for a few days with all my care. This increasingly validates the truth that time and place are the primary conditions for the survival of living things.
Walking up a hillside, I got closer and closer to the frolicking clouds. Looking up, the Wan palm mountain is covered with mountains and mountains, completely covered by the rough green waves of the sea, the sound of the rushing stream lingers among the shrubs and vines, and the wooden houses of different colors and styles are fairytale hidden among the flowers and trees, flashing the beauty of humanities. This is a tropical rainforest scenery created by the Asia-Pacific Forest Organization based on the natural features of the Wanzhang Mountain Forest Farm.
"South of Caiyun" is a kind of artistic conception, and the ecology and climate of Yunnan are the real gifts of nature. The memory freezes a thrilling shot. More than ten years ago, we took a van and circled on the mountain road from Tengchong to Ruili. Turning a sharp bend to the top of the slope, the driver suddenly found that there was an upright object standing in front of the right front of the front of the car, like a small tree stump, more than a meter high, and the top was a head! It's a snake! The driver immediately slammed on the brakes, but the body of the car still rubbed against the snake, only to see the big snake snap, and the upper body slammed heavily on the front windshield. After a cry of exclamation, I fixed my eyes on it, and the big long body that turned around and took the wind twisted and turned away, smashing down a piece of thorn grass all the way. What a luxurious ecology to stage such a terrifying performance!
My yearning for the land of Pu'er is also due to the aroma of Pu'er's tea. At a party, before the meal, I drank a kind of Pu'er tea, the tea soup was bright, the glutinous fragrance was refreshing, and the surrounding air seemed to be full of rich aroma. Maybe that tea was too special, and then I looked around and never met. Ask a friend who knows the tea ceremony well, and he said that I was probably looking for crushed silver sticky tea. The old tea head, with the addition of the unique sticky rice tea leaves of the Dai people, is characterized by moist, fragrant, sweet, and has the taste of sticky rice. "Glutinous rice fragrance" is an herbaceous plant unique to Dai villages, and the locals often plant it in pots, a bit like the leaves of mint, which is a natural spice. In this way, the Wanpao Mountain where I am walking at this time is the source of this incense leaf. I couldn't help but tighten my nose and sniff hard, hoping to smell the long-lost sticky fragrance.
The bluestone slab road down the mountain is somewhat slippery, and the moss drilled between the stone cracks adds an ancient meaning, which is not much different from the well-preserved Nakori Tea Horse Ancient Road site in Pu'er City. There is the Silk Road in the north and the Tea Horse Ancient Road in the south. The Tea Horse Ancient Road is an ancient traffic artery formed by the tea horse trade in the inland and border areas, and the merchants often leave home for a year and a half, and the wind and food live on this ancient road. Today's bluestone slabs still have traces of their fire and smoke, and the coughing sound of the smoke and fire and the aroma of tea wafting everywhere have been lost in the vast smoke of history.
Guangming Daily (2021.11.05. 15th edition)
Source: Guangming Network - Guangming Daily