The ancients often said: "Food color, sex also!" ”。 Most of the good men of Liangshan can resist the temptation of beauty, but if they are allowed to become monks and stay away from fine wine and food, I am afraid that they will be mad one by one. With the words "birds fading out of their mouths", they will definitely go out of the mountain gate, find a restaurant, eat a few pounds of beef, and drink a few bowls of white wine. Only then can they be satisfied.
Wine, the favorite of good men. A good guy on Liangshan is an alcoholic!
Lu Zhishen is the best example above, the sweetness of the wine has long made him forget the elders' teachings on the three conversions and five precepts. The drunken Lu Zhishen did not hesitate to spread wilderness in the pure land of Buddhism.
Of course, the drunken good man is not only Lu Zhishen, Wu Song, Song Jiang, Lin Chong, etc. have experience of drunkenness.
So what are the liquor companions of good guys when they drink?
The standard on the table of the good guys is cooked beef
When the good guys drink, most of them arrogantly pat the table and tell Xiao Er to "cut two pounds of cooked beef" to drink, if the conditions are better, they can also call fat chicken, goose, lamb and other wine. If you eat a regular table, the dishes are much more hearty, in addition to meat, there are vegetables and fruits for drinking.
Vegetables and vegetables are easy to understand, nothing more than vegetables as people say today, so what is the fruit? Is it fruit, or pasta?
In ancient times, the fruit also had another name, the dumpling.
Mention this dumpling, friends in the north will certainly not be strangers, in the bustling, crowded morning market we can see the stalls selling dumplings, here the dumplings are commonly known as fritters.
Northerners call it fritters of fruit
In today's northern Jiangsu and Shandong regions, people used to fry the pasta with syrup after frying it out of the pot and call it fruit. Slowly he became synonymous with small snacks.
Twenty years ago in Luoyang, there were two banquets eaten during the wedding and funeral, the first of which was four fruit plates and four cold dishes. The so-called fruit plate is not fruit, but four kinds of pasta: biscuits, orchid roots, peach crisps, and dates. The cold dish is two meats and two vegetarian dishes, and the plate is very small. Withdrawing and going to two more meals is the right topic, eight hot four cold one eight treasure rice.
Behind this food custom is actually a cultural inheritance, which was similar in the official banquets of the Song Dynasty:
All of them are short and low nails with red face and green piers, and each row of ring cakes, oil cakes, and jujube towers is used as a viewing plate, and the fruits are second. However, the Great Liao, with pigs, sheep, chickens, geese, rabbits and cooked meat as a watch plate, are tied with small ropes. A plate of raw green onions, leeks, garlic, and vinegar was each put on, and three or five people lined up a bucket of syrup and a bucket of water, and several pieces were erected.
Pasta fruit
This is the record of the royal banquet on the birthday of the Emperor of the Song Dynasty in the "Tokyo Dream Record", from which it is not difficult to see the figure of the fruit.
The names of various types of fruits are also recorded in detail in this book:
Soap paste, melon wilting frying, bao snail, wrapped honey, sugar silk thread, Zezhou dumplings, honey crisp, fried dough, Chengsha dumplings, ten kinds of sugar, manna cake, jade shavings paste, roasted papaya, sugar crisp plum, broken core, check stripe, orange red paste, lychee paste, honey ginger soy sauce, rhyme ginger sugar, flower sugar, two-color irrigated lotus root, sugar pea, sprouts, chestnut yellow, black plum, buttermi, indigo, honey bomb, hope mouth elimination, peach puff pastry, heavy agent, honey jujube, ceiling cake, ume sugar, jade pillar sugar, lactose lion, mint honey, amber honey...
Among these fruits, most of them have the names "honey" and "sugar", and some of the fruits we are still eating today, take the cha strip, which is the hawthorn strip we usually eat.
Similarly, the good men of Liangshan who lived in the Song Dynasty also had the figure of fruit on their tables. The more serious and formal the meal, there must be fruit on the table.
The Kim father and daughter set up a banquet to thank Sheluda
In Yanmen County, Dai prefecture, in order to repay Lu Da's life-saving grace, the father and daughter of Jin Laohan prepared wine and food at home to thank Lu Zhishen, including fruits; in the vegetable garden between the Yue Temples in Tokyo, Lu Zhishen, in order to thank the public for their hospitality for several days, also paid money to return the invitation, and he specially instructed the fireworksmen to buy fruit; or on the streets of Tokyo, Lin Chong's father-in-law Zhang Jiaotou specially arranged for the bartender to buy fruit and wine for Lin Chong, who was about to distribute Cangzhou.
So, is this pasta fruit delicious under wine? Will it feel like eating a staple food?
In fact, we can dispel this doubt. In the northeastern countryside of my hometown, there used to be a kind of noodle called bean root on the banquet of marriage and funeral. This bean root is the size of a thumb after being fried, and there is a layer of white sugar on the outside, which is extremely sweet in the mouth and very fragrant to chew, and it can neutralize the spiciness of the white wine under the wine. The adults ate the beans and talked about the mountains, and the small wine was cup after cup.
A fruit called bean root
So leaving aside the saying that the fruit is pasta, can't the fruit be its original fruit?
The answer is yes, fruit wine sounds strange, but if we think about it, maybe everyone has done it.
When we sing songs in KTV, in addition to ordering some beer to help, do we also ask for some fruit plates? You must already have the answer in your mind.
The volcano drifts snow and the wine is served
Even at home, in the summer we often eat a dish – volcanic snow. In layman's terms, it is tomatoes mixed with sugar and used to serve wine with this dish
There are certainly not a few people.
Will the good men of Liangshan do this? The answer is yes, believe it or not:
The leaders rejoiced, slaughtered cattle and horses, and held feasts in the cottage. Self-brewed good wine, fresh lotus roots and fresh fish from the water; from the mountain south trees, from the sometimes new peach, apricot, plum, plum, plum, loquat, jujube, persimmon, chestnut and the like; self-raised chickens, pigs, geese, ducks and other products, needless to say. The leaders only care about celebrating.
This is chao gai's first celebration feast after entering the main Liangshan, from the list of eating and drinking we can see the figure of the fruit, think of the good men to take a bite of peach between the staggered, such a picture is also quite interesting.
Chao Gai and others banquet
Of course, this way of eating is not the original creation of the good man of Liangshan, Sima Guang recorded the scene when his father invited others to drink in the article "Training and Thrifting and Showing Kang":
Sake is served in the city, and the fruit stops at pears, chestnuts, dates, persimmons and the like.
Sima Guang's father can be described as frugal, and the fruits on the table are also the more common ones. According to scholars, oranges, bananas, grapes, lychees, chestnuts, olives, oranges, bayberry, loquat, persimmons, apricots, dates, pears, peaches... These fruits were also available in the fruit shops of the Song Dynasty.
loquat
Of course, the more exotic the fruit, the more expensive it is. The appearance of rare fruits in the banquet shows the owner's financial strength on the one hand, and also shows the host's attention to the guests on the other hand.
In "Water Margin", the monk Pei Ruhai, in order to please Pan Qiaoyun, moved out the rare fruits he usually accumulated like treasures and laid out a table, where the fruits should be the fruits brought by pilgrims when they worshiped the Buddha.
Sweet and sour fruits, at the moment of entering the mouth, not only stimulate people's taste buds, but also increase people's appetite, and people will naturally drink more cups. It's really fruit under the wine, the more you drink, the more you have!
In the "Legend of the Archery Hero" set in the Song Dynasty, Huang Rong, who is hungry, also ordered a lot of fruit in one breath:
Huang Rong, disguised as a beggar
The young man said, "Don't be busy eating meat, let's eat the fruit first." Hey, guys, first four dried fruits, four fresh fruits, two salty acids, four preserves. Shop Xiao Er was startled, but he didn't expect him to say something big, and sneered: "What fruit do you want from your eldest grandfather?" The young man said, "This kind of poor place and small hotel, good things can't be found, just like that, the four kinds of dried fruits are lychee, guiyuan, steamed dates, and ginkgo biloba." Fresh fruit you pick when new. Salty acid to build fragrant cherry and ginger plum, I don't know if you can buy it here? Candied fruit? It is rose kumquat, herb grape, frosted peach strips, and pear meat. ”
Although Mr. Jin Yong is a modern person, this text is written with a great sense of history. Of course, to want to eat a meal like Huang Rong still needs a certain amount of economic strength. From this conversation, we can also get a message that the fruit also contains dried fruits and preserves.
In the Song Dynasty, fruit was not just a fruit or pasta, it was a general term for raw fruit, dried fruit, cold fruit, candied fruit, cake food, etc.
In fact, in the Song Dynasty, fruit was not just a fruit or pasta, it was a general term for raw fruit, dried fruit, cold fruit, preserves, cakes and so on. In Tokyo, there are "fruit rows" that specialize in selling fruits. In the hotel, people can also ask the shop xiao er to arrange fruit to be drunk.
Regarding the characteristics of the Song people who like to eat fruit while drinking, as Mr. Wang Zengqi said in his essay "Eating and Drinking of the Song Dynasty":
The Song Dynasty people drank alcohol and later some differences in that there were always some fresh dried fruits, such as oranges, pears, cane, persimmons, fried chestnuts, new ginkgo biloba, as well as lettuce, "ginger oil" and other vegetables and onyx dumplings, Zezhou dumplings and other sugar syrup. The so-called "laying down the fruit and pressing the wine" in the "Water Margin" refers to such things.
Resources:
"Tokyo Dream Hualu" by Meng Yuanlao, Li Xiuping's note
"Pretending to Live in the Song Dynasty" Ma Hua
"Eat an Interesting Song Dynasty Banquet" Li Kaizhou
This article is original by Gong Ziyue, welcome to pay attention, take you to read Water Margin, long knowledge! Read Water Margin No. 059