This article was published in the "Sanlian Life Weekly" No. 47, 2020, the original title of the "Let luxury goods love and hate the Internet celebrity index", it is strictly forbidden to reprint privately, infringement will be investigated
The short-lived Victors sweatshirt is no longer mentioned, and how many blockbusters can be expected to stay now?
Reporter/Yang Tan
The British sentiment for rubber rain boots is endless, especially the Wellington boots
Rubber boots are getting wet
Energetic rubber boots have become an indispensable spice on the fall/winter 2020 catwalk, such as Burberry Chelsea boots decorated with retro checkered rubber cuts, Roger Vivia rubber boots with crystal buckles, and Louis Vuitton even used the Rain collection as another interpretation of the sold-out Archlight sneakers. Others aren't all made of rubber, with Prada candy-colored chunggy-soled sneakers wrapped in rubber compartments that cover part of the upper and lined with wool. One of the hottest is the Puddle Boots of the Butterfly family. These thick-soled boots have the "legacy" of Wellington boots, 100% biodegradable materials, shapes such as plus-size children's shoes for both men and women, in addition to the common black and dark brown, there are lemon green, pink, chocolate brown optional. Its one-piece molded rubber is similar to molding, and the thick bottom of the big head is quite humorous.
The sturdy boot shape has always maintained a place on the fashion map. In the UK, people's feelings for rubber rain boots are endless, especially wellington boots. Named after the Duke of Wellington who won the Battle of Waterloo in it, this British-inspired fashion piece also managed to pass the "quality checks" of the two world wars. It wasn't until Diana appeared in an engagement photo with Prince Charles in which she wore it that the Wellington boots completed the "primitive accumulation" of fashion fans. In fact, its streamlined design has remained largely unchanged from the 19th century to the present, but it has been iterated from leather to rubber to PVC in terms of material.
In 2005, Kate Moss appeared at the Glastonbury Festival in black Wellington boots, giving the boots an uninhibited modern style to the rugged lines of the boots. For a time, wellington boots became the ideal canvas for haute couture houses, whether it was heavy ink or understatement, such as Puqi's psychedelic swirl, or even Jimmy Choo's crocodile leather print, there will always be a lot of people to pay. It has changed from a countryman's daily routine to a festive outfit. British columnist Brioni Gordon sarcastically said: Wellington boots are like a modern version of the top hat, which is stupid and inappropriate to match. It appeared because of the snow, but the snow had melted for a long time, and the Army of Wellington Boots was still moving forward.
Rubber materials are revered in connection with the street aesthetic and the trend towards "sustainability"
Another, more subcultural avant-garde, "dwarf" Dunshi No. 2 Martin boots, once a staple of punk uniforms, has become a mainstream darling, from members of the sex pistol band to Gen Z supermodel Kaia Gerber, with Martin boots on her feet. The costume designer of the highly acclaimed British drama "Ordinary People" once revealed to the British version of Vogue magazine that Martin boots are an important part of the protagonist Marianne's wardrobe, but most of the story scenes give way to vague relationships and psychological growth, and do not leave much screen time for her love shoes.
The makeover of the rugged No. 3 rubber boots has been given a more pleasing appearance and higher value, and it is likely to take over the old dad shoes (retro sneakers) and become another trend label category. It quickly blended in with the belted sports top and trench trench coat, and this combination presented a new aesthetic neat and not grand, which was very different from the previous Gucci's colorful and Vetements satirical fashion.
On the one hand, the promotion of rubber materials is related to the trend of "sustainability" that has been repeatedly emphasized in the past two years. Stella McCartney, a designer brand that never uses animal leather, has partnered with British national rain boots brand Hunter as early as last season to create a sustainable "vegan" boot, saying that it is "vegan" because its material ensures that there is no pressure on ecology and can be traced back to the source, and the rubber used comes from Guatemala's sustainably managed forests. Balenciaga chose to embed its attention to the environment in a sensory runway. The pitch-black catwalk and front row were completely immersed in water, accompanied by simulated waves and swirling clouds floating overhead, and the models stepped on the water. Such apocalyptic show ceremonies want to express propositions related to the climate crisis. A large number of black shapes with rubber boots and jumpsuits, oversized trench coats, and neutral suits attempt to express the designer's insight into power politics and dress codes.
Practicality and functionality, on the other hand, are two buzzwords after the Fall/Winter 2020 runway. In the case of most of the isolation time occupied, the longing for nature allows "Cottagecore" (romantic pastoral style) to push the modern urban feeling to the second line. The resurgence of rubber boots has inherited the mood of transparent PVC shoes and boots in the previous two years, and will not make people feel sudden about the change in material. Its touch is warmer than leather, and its rounded shape is easy to produce a sense of intimacy and security, which is a psychological compensation during this year's special period.
Practicality and functionality are the key words for the Fall/Winter 2020 runway
Humble Puddle Boots
Blockbuster cult
Puddle Boots is another attempt by the new "blockbuster maker" Bao Dijia. The Butterfly family was able to regain the focus of the fashion world thanks to creative director Daniel Lee. In June 2018, when the public's attention was all precipitated by the news that street designer Virgil Abloh had become the creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear, Kering also announced that Daniel Lee would replace Tomas Maier, who had been with him for 17 years, as the creative director of the Butterfly family. Unlike Virgil, who is good at using social media to create momentum, almost no one knew who Daniel Lee was before entering The Butterfly's house.
A year later, the folds and special shape of the cloud bag by Daniel's hand due to the soft leather became the top five topic bags in Lyst's 2019, and its success ran counter to the trend that must not be a big logo. At this time, people look back and find that this law major, later into the Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design, interned at Maison Margiela and Balenciaga, and entered Celine to follow former designer Phoebe Ferro for 6 years, forming a calm and simple style that matched it. At last year's British Fashion Awards, Bao Di Jia won the Brand of the Year Award, and Daniel won the Accessories Designer of the Year, Womenswear Designer of the Year and Designer of the Year. The rapid turnaround of the Butterfly family is due to the explosive strategy, and in just a few months, it has created a single matrix of handbags and shoes. Its square-toed wide plaid heels appear frequently in photos of Instagram bloggers. How hot is it? The Designer of The Row was secretly photographed by paparazzi wearing The Butterfly shoes, just as embarrassing as the Lamborghini designer was found to be driving a Ferrari in private.
Matthew Williams wins in the play with symbols
Whether it is Gucci in previous years or the recent Baodijia, the successful case of "flipping against the wind" shows that in the social media-led communication logic, there is no performance revitalization without a hit. Claire Witte Keller, the creative director who recently left Givenchy, is a contrast. In 2017, when Claire Witte Keller took over Givenchy, it was like a huge decaying shell, and the previous creative director's 12-year-long portrayal made the gorgeous dark gothic style penetrate into the marrow, although it was also a fusion of luxury and street trends, but it was just the "wrong peak" with the big trend that began after 2015, and at the same time, the brand's high fashion spirit has disappeared. Claire Witte Keller spent three years bringing the founder's Givenchy elegance back to the brand and receiving high praise in the industry for haute couture. In the field of ready-to-wear, it is tired of the former CEO's formulation of business strategies, slightly conservative, and the performance is naturally not too good. Aside from designing a wedding dress for Meghan Markle's royal wedding, she barely gained visibility and global reach for Givenchy on social networks, ultimately failing to renew her three-year contract. It can be seen that even for luxury brands that focus on long-term and inheritance, designers must bear the commercial pressure of monetization in the short term.
From the perspective of the successor, lvmh group has strengthened its determination to make luxury goods trending. The successor, Matthew M. Williams, who sparked widespread discussion, is the second designer after Virgil to take root in the streets and take the helm of a veteran French fashion house, and the 1017 ALYX 9SM he founded has an avid fan base and pop culture background. Many have compared Louis Vuitton's creative director of menswear to Givenchy's appointment. Regardless of the position of the two in the group and the size of the market, the genes of the two brands determine that the meaning of the two appointments is different. Louis Vuitton started with accessories, menswear does not account for the core share, and Matthew Williams not only has to take on the ready-to-wear part of menswear and womenswear, but also responsible for haute couture. After all, Givenchy was once the representative of France's old fashion houses.
After givenSy's retirement, the brand's creative director also had two successors with cultural conflicts. One was John Galliano, whose style was "dramatic", which proved to be more suitable for him later, and Alexander McQueen, whose sensory impact was more exaggerated. McQueen's first show at Givenchy, many in the audience, used words such as "disaster" to describe it, and the Women's Daily unkindly commented: "It is a extravagant and gorgeous performance of white and gold excess." Too deliberate performance skills exude the atmosphere of the grass stage team, and this show is exactly like this. "The industry has a lot of opinions about LVMH's choice of these two to enter Givenchy, especially the French, who believe that the center of fashion is Paris, and now that two British people are running the french old fashion house, is it not a change in fashion power? (There is no such harsh attitude anymore.) In addition, neither has the atmosphere of an artistic family, and the British son of a plumber and taxi driver has gained a foothold in the center of the French fashion vortex. Whether it is the background or the style, they have torn apart the haute couture and broken the inherent class. The flood of criticism has not shaken LVMH's business philosophy. Times changed, and Galliano and McQueen each led their brands to grow well later. So now it seems that Williams' succession is not so "earth-shattering", but it only makes the situation of haute couture slightly sad.
Claire · Witt · Keller brought the Founder's Givenchyian elegance back to Couture and received high praise from the industry
Seen in the first collection of the Givenchy Williams era is a collage of blockbuster elements and diverse ideas. From embroidered pieces to hollow handbags to padlock accessories, it looks like everyone can understand the design, and there is a sense of sharpness everywhere. Fashion critics believe that, overall, the collection is a bit stiff and a bit "too geometric", and it takes time to grind between Williams and Givenchy. The new creative director wins the play with symbols, and Claire Witte Keller is really making clothes with her heart, and fewer and fewer people will appreciate good clothes.
How to balance the attributes of influencers without kitsch is the focus of luxury fashion. Daniel Lee's Baldwin family balances these two points well. Square-toed woven shoes and cloud bags are all under the casual shape, through the texture of leather workmanship "to the shape of the person". A hard-to-find Victors sweatshirt has been mentioned again, and the old tricks such as tailoring and craftsmanship determine whether this season's trend items can be continued as classics or short-lived blockbusters.
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【Sanlian Life Weekly】2020 No. 47 1114 Why is anti-domestic violence so difficult to buy ¥15