The cool breeze is just beginning, and it is the beginning of the school year again.
According to the Book of Rites, "The beginning of etiquette lies in the right body, the same color, and the order." Therefore, the first lesson of the ancient opening ceremony was "the right dress". Nowadays, people also like to let children wear Hanfu for the first lesson of education, starting with the crown and reaching Boyuan.
Mr. Sun Ji, an expert on cultural relics, believes that the significance of clothing and crowns for people is not only an item that protects people from the cold, but also the embodiment of national characteristics and cultural accomplishment. At the same time, the Chinese costume culture with thousands of years of history is the representative of the traditional culture of our Chinese nation, which can be described as a long history.
Years of measuring clothes
There is a saying in the "Explanation of Words" that "the beginning, the beginning, from the knife from the clothes, the beginning of the tailoring", which shows the importance of clothes. The appearance of clothes is one of the important signs of the emergence of civilization.
In ancient times, the word "clothes" refers to the bottom of the jacket, because the ancient textile tools are simple, the width of the cloth is very narrow, so a piece of cloth must be put together with several pieces of narrow cloth, looking like a waist.
In addition, the ancients always feared heaven and earth and nature, and they cut their tops into four pieces, which means "four seasons"; the lower clothes were divided into twelve pieces, corresponding to "December". Putting years on your body is a beautiful expectation. Gradually, this ancient garment developed into an important part of the traditional Chinese costume, Hanfu.
In the concept of contemporary people, Hanfu is actually a generic term for ancient Chinese traditional costumes, not "Han Dynasty clothes" or "Han clothes". From the beginning of "the Yellow Emperor's clothes and the rule of the world", to the Qing Dynasty", "shaving hair and changing clothes", Hanfu has undergone multiple dynasties of polishing, various shapes. We can find out from the "Exhibition of Ancient Chinese Costume Culture" at the National Museum of China, which is the first general history exhibition of ancient Chinese costume culture that Mr. Sun Ji participated in curating. Between a needle and a thread, the artistic aesthetic of ancient China is fully revealed.
Pin and thread password
The development of ancient Chinese traditional costumes is inseparable from the interweaving of needles and threads. Mr. Sun Ji pointed out that there were already bone needles in the Paleolithic Age. During the Yellow Emperor's reign, "hemp was treated as cloth", and the thread also appeared at this time. Since then, Chinese clothes with hemp and kudzu fabrics (ancient named cloth) and silk fabrics (ancient names as drapery and brocade) as the main materials have appeared on the stage of history.
Linen is the textile used by many peoples in the world to make clothing earlier, such as ancient Egypt and the Two Rivers Valley. However, silk is a specialty of China, and the ancient Chinese working people invented and mass-produced silk products, forming a unique appearance of Chinese clothing. Since the Western Han Dynasty, China's silk has been shipped abroad in large quantities, becoming a world-famous product, opening the first large-scale trade exchange between the East and the West in the history of the world, known as the "Silk Road".
Different weaving methods of silk fabrics in ancient China have formed many varieties, such as multi-colored brocade, satin with smooth surfaces, aya with a texture like ice, thin and perforated luo, light yarn, twill and silk woven from raw silk, in addition to silk through warp and weft. In addition to the jacquard process, the beautification of silk fabrics includes dyeing, printing, embroidery and painting. In the needle and thread, colorful Costumes are cut, and posterity finds the code of dialogue with predecessors, completing the tight seam of cultural inheritance.
Huaxia is courteous
Ancient China enjoyed the reputation of "the state of etiquette" and the "kingdom of clothing". When commenting on the Zuo Zhuan in the Tang Dynasty, Kong Yingda once explained the name of the Chinese nation "Huaxia" in this way: "China has the great righteousness of etiquette, so it is called Xia, and the beauty of the clothing chapter is called Hua. It can be seen that clothing and etiquette were inseparable in ancient times.
During the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, rulers promoted the "ceremonial system" and systematized the hierarchical distinction of clothing. On this basis, the Qin and Han dynasties established a complete set of costume systems, which became the symbol of the hierarchical etiquette system of the great unified dynasty. The crown system has been used successively by later generations and has undergone many changes.
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, deep clothes with upper and lower bodies connected to each other appeared. The famous King Wuling of Zhao promoted the "Hufu Riding Shooting" and learned the costumes of the nomadic and semi-nomadic peoples in the northwest, which was the first major change in costume in the history of our country.
From the Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Tang Dynasty, China's clothing changed from a single system in the Han and Wei dynasties to a composite system of two sources, Huaxia and Xianbei, and changed from a monorail system to a dual-track system, which is the second major change in the history of clothing.
By the Qing Dynasty, men changed into Manchu costumes, and the traditional Chinese clothing system was broken, which was the third major change in the history of clothing.
Mr. Sun Ji said that the development and evolution of China's clothing history has gone through a long time, the content is very rich, we must understand the history in the Hanfu trend, understand the history, but also be moved by history. Retro is not to look backwards, but to enhance cultural self-confidence and increase the motivation to move forward.
Heaven and earth wind bone
Now, we often see young people wearing all kinds of Hanfu on the street, but the original deep clothes are still the only representative of Hanfu. Compared with the aforementioned tops and bottoms, deep clothes are wrapped together to wrap the body, cut separately but sewn up and down, because of the "deep body", hence the name.
Traditional deep clothes have three major emphasis: one is the "collar right guard", the front placket of the clothes intersects left and right, and the Hanfu is hidden to the right; the second is the "wide sleeves of the dress", the clothes of the Hanfu are loose, and the sleeves are wide and longer than the arms; the third is the "tie concealment", most of the clothes of the Hanfu do not use buttons, but tie with ropes. Some people have summed up these characteristics into eight words: flat, middle, cross, right, wide, fold, united, and tasseled, which also contain the excellent character of the Chinese nation.
The sleeves of the Hanfu are round to respond to the "heavenly circle", and the collar is folded into a rectangle to respond to the "place", to symbolize the "heavenly circle place". The ancients hid heaven and earth in clothes, there is heaven on the top, there is earth under the ground, and there must be rules for dressing and acting, and the meaning of "right clothes and crown" also lies in this.
With the spirit of tireless exploration, the industrious and wise ancestors made the costumes from scratch, from one yuan to multiple. The Chinese nation adheres to the spirit of having roots and roots, and the belt is in the splendid world, flowing with either soft or shiny Chinese bones.
【Perceiving heaven and earth in nature, harvesting surprises in daily life】
Author: Chen Yujuan
Jiabin: Sun Ji
Editor: Fish Language
Signed: He Yu
Lin Chun
Producer: Wang Xin
Producer: Hong Lin
Thanks: National Museum of China
New Media, Chinese Global Program Center, China Central Radio and Television Corporation
END
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