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Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Golden wrong knife

2024-05-29 09:59Published in Beijing

The "Michelins" in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou can't hold on.

Beijing's top Western food scene, the one-Michelin-starred restaurant Opera BOMBANA suddenly closed, and many diners who came to visit were empty.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

This restaurant, known as the "top Italian cuisine in Beijing", has hosted the weddings of Gao Yuanyuan and Zhao Youting, and has received Jackie Chan and Lee Kai-fu and other bigwigs.

Even if the per capita consumption casually exceeds 1,000, it is difficult to find the number one reservation reservation, but it still can't stop diners from all over the world from emptying their wallets to check in.

Coincidentally, six of the restaurants of TIAGO Group, which has received a lot of Michelin and Black Pearl "double certifications", also suddenly closed their stores overnight.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

After three years of "food winter", many Michelin fell before the arrival of spring.

According to statistics, the number of closed stores in the fine dining industry in 2023 will be 13%, the highest in history.

In the past, the F&B industry has been so eager for high-end certifications such as Michelin and Black Pearl because these "certifications" mean nothing for nothing.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

According to Meituan data, after the restaurant is listed on the Black Pearl list, the offline customer flow will directly increase by 30%~70%, and the online search volume will also skyrocket by about 97%.

But today, whether it is Michelin or Black Pearl, the "traffic password" of fine dining is gradually failing, and more and more restaurants are closing and running away.

Is it that the restaurant can't roll up, or is it that people can't afford to eat?

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

The aristocratic restaurants with thousands per capita have become old men

The plates are large, the portions are small, the rules are many, and the food is not full.

Although the public's "stereotype" of fine dining is nothing more than that, for fine dining, everything they do is to "turn up" up.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Food, wine, and ingredients that are rare to the point of being more expensive than gold have almost become the "standard" of Michelin-starred restaurants.

If it is a Western restaurant, the sky-high price of black truffles, a spoonful of thousands of caviar, and aged steak wrapped in gold leaf are all basic skills;

Chinese restaurants are not far behind, and the "home-roasted yellow croaker" of Xinrong Ji is often thousands, just because it uses rare wild yellow croaker;

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Of course, there is no end to the involution of ingredients, and in the world of catering, more cherished and more cerebral foods can be said to be endless, as long as it is not illegal, it is not strange to be able to eat anything.

As a result, celebrity leading the way has become another big source of gimmicks for fine dining.

Chain restaurants can blow for a year by inviting celebrities to check in, and Michelins don't have to worry about celebrities visiting at all.

The Italian restaurant Opera BOMBANA, which has just closed, has become famous for hosting the wedding of Gao Yuanyuan and Zhao Youting.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Later, some fans also "encountered" Wu Bai, Jackie Chan, Tsui Hark and other big names during the meal, and shouted, "It doesn't matter what you eat, you are happiest when you see idols." ”

On Xiaohongshu, being able to "meet" in Michelin restaurants has become the main channel for chasing stars, from Jiang Wen to Yang Yang, Michelin restaurants can be said to be the occasion with the least choice of stars.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Of course, meeting celebrities by chance is just a side dish, and service is the real killer feature of fine dining.

Different from Haidilao's chicken-blooded service, fine dining is engaged in service to focus on an "aristocratic experience".

When a diner eats at the Michelin-starred restaurant Sun Rong Kee, as long as he mentions "cold", a waiter will immediately serve a shawl of LV.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

If you are lucky enough to catch the diner's birthday, the Michelin-starred chef will also make a small cake on the spot, and you can also receive the blessings of all the "celebrities" in unison, which is full of nobility.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Compared with the usual high-minded luxury store staff, the service of fine dining can really allow diners to get a short "aristocratic experience card".

However, the higher you adjust, the harder you fall.

The closure of Opera BOMBANA is very "unseemly".

On the afternoon of April 11, Opera BOMBANA suddenly issued a statement about the closure of the store, and three days later, the store was empty, leaving only the locked door and the table that had not yet had time to clean up.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Most unseemly, Opera BOMBANA also owes a lot of debt.

Before the closure of the restaurant, some diners came to eat and met suppliers who came to collect debts, but after the closure of the store, the arrears of the suppliers were still not settled, and it is reported that Opera owed more than 4 million to the suppliers in total.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

The salaries of Opera employees have also not been settled, and the once smiling and elegant waiters are now planning to initiate arbitration.

ANOTHER TIAGO THAT WENT OUT OF BUSINESS WAS ALSO SUDDEN, AND ACCORDING TO THE INVESTIGATION, MANY DINERS RAN AWAY BEFORE THEY HAD TIME TO REFUND THEIR STORED VALUE CARDS AT TIAGO.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

SOME MEDIA INTERVIEWED TIAGO'S INSIDERS, AND IT IS SAID THAT BY THE END OF THE CLOSURE, THE COMPANY HAS LOST MORE THAN 30 MILLION YUAN IN THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS.

The Michelins who fell after the cold winter no longer care about decency.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Michelin collective "down to earth",

Willing to be woolened by poor ghosts

In the face of a more volatile market and more "picky" diners, Michelins have begun to struggle to save themselves.

is used to being high, and fine dining can only throw away the forced style of the past and choose to "go down".

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

The first batch of fine dining that "went down" chose a very difficult path: doing takeout.

For fine dining, the dining environment and exquisite service are all part of its high price.

After doing takeaways, this part of the premium is gone, and Michelin's "forced qualification" is difficult to guarantee.

Many fine dining restaurants encounter unadaptability when they "deign" to do takeaway.

The aforementioned Opera Bombana was fined some time ago for delivering cakes without obtaining a "license for the production and sale of decorated cake food".

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

When a blogger evaluated the package of Shanghai's Michelin-starred "Jiangsu Zhehui", he found that although the original package of more than 1,000 yuan was only sold for more than 400 yuan in takeaway, the quality and quantity of the dishes were greatly reduced, which was suspected to be done to clear inventory.

But not all Michelins are "incompatible" with takeaways.

The one-Michelin-starred restaurant "Lao Ji Tang", after a year of research, has changed itself from a high-end restaurant with hundreds of yuan per capita to a big takeaway that can order a meal for less than 100.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

In 2022, Lao Jitang will make 3 million revenue a year by virtue of his takeaway advantage, and his peers will lose miserably, but he will make a lot of money.

Some fine dining restaurants are more "cherishing feathers" and choose to "open a trumpet" to enter the parity market.

Michelin-starred restaurant Xin Rong Kee, which is famous for "thousands of yellow croakers", has been crazy about opening trumpets in recent years.

For example, the home-cooked restaurant "Rong Xiaoguan", which is less than 200 per capita, and the "Rong Ji Yellow Croaker Noodles", which only makes noodles, are still much more expensive than Shaxian and M Ji, but they have become the daily choice of many white-collar workers.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Compared with Chinese food, which focuses on the dishes to distinguish them, high-end Western food has more variety.

Known as "the most expensive restaurant in Shanghai", Ultraviolet, which has an average of 6000+ per capita, also opened a small exquisite shop UVVU, and the cheapest cup of coffee is 28 yuan, which is on the same order of magnitude as Luckin.

But in order to maintain the force, UVVU still did a lot of actions that usually small bars don't do.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

For example, its desserts adopt the popular Omakase model, and it is only open 3 times a day, receiving 6 customers each time, and if you want to taste "affordable Michelin", you have to spend more than 300 yuan in advance to make a reservation.

Some restaurants did not choose this strategy of "saving the country by curves", and chose the simplest and crude way: price reduction.

According to the "2023 China Catering Consumption Trend Report" released by RedMeal.com, from October 2022 to April 2023, the number of fine dining outlets with 300+ per capita began to decline, and was replaced by restaurants with 50~300 yuan per capita.

Many fine dining with "high-priced" gimmicks have begun to launch "poor ghost packages".

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Xinrong Ji has "deigned" to launch a single "poor ghost package" of 398 yuan, although it is more than 20 times more expensive than McDonald's, but there are still many ordinary people who are willing to spend this money to go to the legendary "Michelin number one Chinese food" to find out.

According to the survey, in 2024, nearly half of the "Black Pearl" restaurants in Beijing will launch affordable packages, and the discount can even reach about 5% off.

Of course, in order to maintain the original forced style, the restaurant also cut a lot of premiums for the "poor ghost package".

When some diners checked in Lao Jitang's newly launched "Poor Ghost Package", they found that the dishes were obviously not as exquisite as the regular-priced dishes, and they seemed to be the works used by apprentices to practice their hands, and the pre-meal service was also greatly reduced, and the previous detailed dish introduction link was also canceled.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

High-flying fine dining, even if you go down to earth, you have to keep the force.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Fine dining with broken filters

On the contrary, it is getting more and more popular?

Veteran Michelins are struggling to save themselves, but the results are often unsatisfactory.

It is not difficult to find that the consistent "aristocratic sense and high style" of fine dining are becoming less and less popular with young people, and the filter is slowly shattering.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Strangely, the long-established and well-known Michelin has fallen one after another, and the entire fine dining market is growing.

According to the "Fine Dining Report" released by Meituan at the beginning of this year, the number of fine dining stores will increase to 6,835 in 2023, a year-on-year increase of 17%, and the market share will reach 66.5 billion yuan.

In other words, in addition to the 13% of store closures, the number of fine dining stores has also increased by hundreds.

Among the new fine dining players, Chinese food began to play the leading role.

The Michelin evaluation system, which originated in France, is the source of "fine dining", because its Western food background is incompatible with Chinese food culture, so it has always been difficult for Chinese "fine dining" to break the game.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

Now, Chinese food adapted to the gameplay has opened the "big kill" mode, and the growth of high-end Chinese food in 2023 will be as high as 26%, ranking first in the category.

In the new batch of exquisite Chinese food, niche boutique local cuisines have become a major force.

For example, the original niche high-end Fujian cuisine increased by 103% last year.

Fuzhou's "new Black Pearl", but Xuanhe Garden, which has been open for more than 20 years, is very popular among local diners with its names such as "no use of chicken essence MSG" and "homemade soy sauce".

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

The Shanghai Fujian restaurant "The Bund" was awarded a Michelin star not long after it opened, becoming the first Fujian restaurant to receive a star.

In addition to Chinese food, Asian cuisines such as Japanese, Korean, and Southeast Asian cuisines will also grow significantly in 2023 by virtue of the taste advantages brought by the geographical environment.

Other cuisines are on the rise, but Western food, which once represented the forced style, has fallen by 1%, and it has been saddled with a "declining" black pot.

Another reason for this is the inability to keep up with the preferences of contemporary Chinese consumers.

The Western food culture, represented by French food, has many cumbersome steps and many ceremonies, and Chinese diners who want to "eat clearly" must not only solve the differences in taste, but also be educated.

Compared with Western food, Chinese food is obviously more understanding of Chinese diners and can play better.

For example, NOBLE, a high-end Chinese restaurant in Shanghai, used a few side dishes of its own and an antique lantern to make a "Linglong Blind Box", which once attracted many diners to check in.

Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

is also playing "random dining", combining Chinese elements + blind boxes, it is much more down-to-earth than copying the Japanese "Omakase".

After the TV series "Flowers" became popular, NOBLE, as the catering director, also launched the same style of "Bao Zong Rice" in the play, which was also popular.

In 2023, NOBLE, a restaurant that has come out of the circle with hot spots, will not only increase its customer traffic by 10%, but also the number of daily turnovers in one branch will reach 1.6 rounds.

It's not that Chinese diners can't afford to eat fine dining, but they don't want to pay an extra penny for the gimmick of "not knowing what to do".

Michelins should also understand that the high-end is not supported by gimmicks, but by experience.

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  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin
  • Closed overnight! China's "poor ghost" is battling Michelin

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