Preface
The clothing of the ancients was very different from today's, and the most striking of them was the long mopping clothes often worn by the rich and noble. The hem of this garment is very slender and sometimes even drags on the floor. Such a design should be easy to stain, so why did the ancients wear it like this, and how did they keep their clothes clean?
1. The luxury of the powerful "wears a miss"
In ancient times, having ornate clothing was a symbol of the status of the powerful. The silk robes they wore were priceless, of the highest quality materials, of exquisite craftsmanship, and of a way of squandering resources.
During the Han Dynasty, the social classes were distinct, and the dignitaries and dignitaries were well-dressed, and their silk robes were not only expensive, but sometimes even discarded outright after a one-off occasion. Because in their eyes, these are just consumables, and being reluctant to give up means that the family is in a tight situation. After a feast, they would rather throw away the precious and complicated costumes without hesitation than reuse them. In the eyes of the powerful of them, it is a manifestation of power and wealth.
Where can ordinary people afford to have such luxury, so they are both envious and puzzled by this kind of extravagant behavior. "These dignitaries are so extravagant, their clothes are more expensive than our life savings!" "Hey, it's too comfortable to think about wearing such a silk robe, it's just a feeling of immortals!"
However, this clothing Xi also wastes social resources to a certain extent, forming a vicious circle. What's more, some powerful families always have dozens of such costumes to stand out from the crowd. At their flamboyant banquet scene, the guests were all dressed in gorgeous long clothes, competing for beauty. And once the banquet is over, these expensive costumes are discarded. They recklessly abandon the resources of the state in order to show their power and wealth.
Under such a profligate atmosphere, these luxurious clothes are consumed one by one, and it becomes a Xi. Fortunately, this behavior did not spread quickly, and was limited to high-ranking dignitaries at the top. For the lower middle class, food and clothing are still very tight. They can't understand how much money the upper echelons are profligate. "My children are still starving, and their clothes are worth more than our house!" But even so, these extravagant officials have not relented, and they still go their own way.
Second, the choice of concubines: manners and cold
In the depths of the palace, the concubines were also dressed quite exquisitely. Unlike the robes of male officials, they preferred long silk dresses embroidered with floral patterns. This skirt has a slender back hem and is full of float when mopping the floor. Wearing them makes you feel like you've stepped back in time. However, under this fairy-like appearance, the concubines also have certain rules for wearing long skirts. The length of the floor should not be too mopping, otherwise it will be considered rude.
During the period of Emperor Wen of the Han Dynasty, the favored concubine Mrs. Shen was favored for a while. She received countless brocades from the emperor, and she was well-dressed every day. Gradually, she got a little carried away and began to wear longer skirts that were more mopping the floor. may want to use this to show his status as a favorite concubine. However, she overestimated her status, which caused the emperor's displeasure. Enraged, Emperor Wen of Han cut off the excessively long part of her skirt and condemned her for going too far. Only then did Mrs. Shen realize that she should not be so public.
Since then, Mrs. Shen has been deeply hidden, and her dress tends to be low-key. She finally understood that the concubines in the court should not be so flamboyant. No matter how favored you are, you can't forget that the emperor is the master of the country.
By the Tang Dynasty, the length of women's long skirts was also more clearly regulated, and it could not exceed five inches. If there is any non-compliance with the standard, it must be cut by 3 inches. Such requirements make their dress more standardized and avoid excessive extravagance.
In the minds of concubines, the length of their clothing is directly related to their demeanor and status. They must always be mindful of who they are, and they must not behave in any way, even if it is just a small mistake in their clothing. Their future fate is at stake.
Of course, it's not just about the demeanor, but also about the need to keep warm. A skirt that is too long is easy to get dusty and not conducive to movement. Life in the court was already cold, and they also needed to dress reasonably to keep out the cold. So a long skirt of moderate length became their best choice. It's both an identity and a good enough way to keep out the cold, the best of both worlds.
As concubines who live in a simple place, they never think of how simple the clothes of the common people are. Those coarse cloth clothes and linen clothes are too different from the brocade clothes and embroidered clothes of their concubines, and they are simply two worlds. They are immersed in the life of this deep palace, and they have no worries about food and clothing. Even if there is an occasional worry about mopping the floor, it is just a matter of etiquette. The real livelihood of the people, they have long had no time to take care of it.
3. Officialdom ceremony: well-organized
In ancient times, a grand banquet was a good time for the magnates to show off their wealth and status. The participating officials were all well-dressed and dressed in intricate and noble silk robes. This was another social occasion for them outside of the imperial court.
As an opportunity to entertain officials, the host will prepare in advance. Before the formal banquet began, the mansion was already full of people. A large number of maids come and go, taking care of the setting up and cleaning of the grounds. They cleaned very carefully, for fear of any dust left. In that case, the owner is bound to be furious. "I've cleaned it up five times, isn't the master just afraid that the eunuch's robe will be soiled on the ground!
The servants complained and complained, but they did not dare to delay the movement of their feet. They mechanically enter and exit, repeatedly cleaning, and make sure every nook and cranny is spotless. In a few moments, the vast garden was completely renewed. The owner of the mansion was also dressed like a little prince. His blue and white silk robe was exquisitely embroidered with moire patterns, and the back hem was long and mopping the floor, which was a typical dignitary's dress. The servant waited by him, looked at him obediently, and sent him forward. The host nodded in satisfaction and officially stepped out of the dormitory to greet the incoming guests.
At this moment, the palace is busy, and the servants and subordinates have abandoned their usual snubbness and are consciously busy. This group of officials is not an ordinary person, and even a little dust may disrupt this grand event. If you serve well, maybe there will be a lot of reward. The thought made it impossible for them to stop. "The lord is in a good mood today, as long as he serves the guests well. Maybe there will be a big reward!" "Hurry up and check the courtyard again for fallen leaves!"
They all work hard, with the mentality of pleasing their masters by themselves. The master is happy to see this, as long as it makes him feel honored in front of his friends. The labor of the servants will bring them unexpected benefits. This well-organized banquet presents a uniform effect for the perfect holding of the banquet. There won't be any problems with the officials' robes.
Fourth, the official chicken dog: the matter of the division
In the homes of dignitaries in ancient times, the work of the servants was not limited to doing business. Their greater responsibility is to take care of the cleaning and maintenance of the soft clothes and decorations in the home. This is the most basic and important part of their work.
Among them, the "laundry worker" who washes the laundry is even more full-time. They are Xi using a tool called a "clothes stick". These sticks made of wood are extremely long, with a cloth tied to one end, and can be used to beat in the water and wash clothes. It is with them that the cleaning of silk clothes at home becomes extremely easy. "Oh, this emerald garment is stained! This is the master's favorite one, it must be washed quickly!" "Force! This robe is thick and must be pounded hard to wash it!"
Despite these tools, laundry is still a manual task. The laundry workers washed in the water for hours every day, and the backs of their hands and shoulders were covered with thick calluses. But they never complain about the hard work, because that's what they do. As long as you do your duty, the main family will take care of it.
In addition to manual cleaning, some hard-to-remove stains on clothing also require natural soap made from saponaria fruit. It effectively removes surface dirt. Some residual dirt can also be pounded with cake made of cabbage seeds, washed and dried, and then continue to wear.
It is precisely because of these young and strong laundry workers in the family that the owners no longer need to worry about cleaning when wearing clothes. The servants kept all the silk furnishings in the house spotless. Left to the splurge of their owners, they always abide by their duty and devote themselves to washing and maintenance.
epilogue
To sum up, the Xi of the ancients who mopped the floor with long clothes was not as puzzling as it seemed. There are layers of contradictions and stories behind it, the extravagance and waste of high-ranking officials, the palace pomp of concubines, and the hard-working servants in the back.
For those dignitaries and elites, clothing is just a tool to show their status. They have enough money and human resources to support this flamboyant lifestyle. Those intricate silk robes will eventually be scrapped again and again in their hands. In the backyard of the deep palace, the concubines will also be dignified and cold in their clothing. Further down, the hard-working servants are the pillars of this extravagant life.
The reason why the ancients were able to maintain this kind of mopping dress for a long time is not only the clothing itself. More often than not, it is the embodiment of the strict hierarchy of this society. Behind this ancient society, there is no room for ordinary people to have the slightest extravagance. They could only look enviously at the extravagance and indifference of the upper-class figures, but their figures were always hidden behind the simple coarse cloth clothes.
This is a social reality that may not be fully understood today. But today, the divide remains elusive. What we are looking for is not only the same luxury outside, but also the inner equality and tolerance. This is the essence of this society. Maybe one day, we will be able to wear a fluttery robe without worries.