The "weak image" of men in dress fashion is gradually being broken, and people in popular culture are increasingly valuing attitudes of self-expression. Styles that once existed as women's items have begun to penetrate into menswear design, and "degendering" will still be one of the directions of menswear design thinking this season.
The large-scale appearance of women's clothing elements such as sheer vests, skirts, lace elements, and design-oriented skin-revealing details has made this season more diverse and vivid in dressing than ever before. Designs such as the knitted miniskirt on the Ludovic de Saint Sernin runway intuitively blur the boundaries of feminine pieces. Dsquared2 shows a night of teenage carnival that completely blurs the boundaries, and the addition of lace-trimmed silk pajamas makes the inadvertently exposed gorgeous material a little more ambiguous to the show full of male hormones. And Fendi boldly added hollowed-out and slanted shoulders to commuting clothing, providing more possibilities for future men's uniform forms.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin
In addition, thinking about ambiguous gender has also changed traditional men's clothing. Kim Jones incorporates the beauty of design and literature into Dior menswear, and the models who come out with the poem of "The Wasteland" exude a soft glow under the light and textured fabric, the sheer vest and culottes are also harmonious, and the streamer embellishments make the design look more fluid. When men's sexiness is no longer achieved only through vacuum matching or nudity, it becomes a more thinking attitude.
Practical items like coats are naturally the basics of the autumn and winter trend. This season, the long coat, which has a super high photo rate, extends the elegance of the formal suit to some extent, bringing a temperament bonus to the relatively straight fit and line. This masculine and feminine piece with plenty of room to play on trends has been the focus of attention for designers this season.
Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran prepared for us at the Lemaire runway with coats that inherit the flowy temperament of the two designers. The rich draped texture of high-quality fabrics, combined with well-designed silhouettes, takes people back to the streets of Paris in the 60s. Hermès combines the silhouette of a suit with the casual feel of an overcoat, paired with a signature scarf that balances one weight and one light. The youthful temperament is already reflected in Prada's designs, and with this season's signature valgus peak lapels, sharp minimalism constructs the perfect image of the contemporary urban elite.
We can also see extra-long coats that extend to the ankle on many runways, such as Gucci, which dragged the hem directly to the ground, which is really casual. The use of different fabrics makes these extra-long coats appear in any occasion in the imagination. Retro loose silhouette, or elegant waist style, the extra-long design seems to be a mysterious visitor in a movie, wrapped in the wind, with a sense of story.
Saint Laurent made these floor-length coats the main theme of the season, and the models are like from the movie "The Matrix", the coats create a unique retro texture by emphasizing the design of the shoulders and neckline, the ultimate cool and the ultimate elegance. Carrying huge bags and over-long hems obscuring the march, the model on the Fendi runway hurried by like a traveler to an appointment, making ripples on the road. The same combination was changed to the Marine Serre runway, and the collage design gave the coat a playful street feel.
Check elements are combined with different styles this season to present a completely different temperament in a traditional style.
Daniel Lee's debut at Burberry naturally emphasized the brand's classic check elements, and the collision with different colors made people feel why this time-honored pattern has such a long and abundant vitality. Nigo's Kenzo showcases the diversity of colors and checks in style, from a preppy feeling of the same color system, a modern look created by red, blue and white, or a red and green hoodie to create a street atmosphere. When traditional checks meet exaggerated silhouettes, Dries Van Noten gives fine checks a new texture to the fabric of clothing, making oversized, everyday as well. Also using this classic element is the JW Anderson, which brings together the spaced check elements with soft fabrics to make the outfit look less serious or too casual, and the laid-back and casual atmosphere is just right.
Dries Van Noten
The old fashion house Emporio Armani creates a modern and traditional new meaning through the collision of checks and leather. There's also the classic Prince of Wales and Houndstooth combo, a design that gives any style a time-tested elegance. Combine with blazers and coats to create a classic, while cropped jackets or one-piece suits create a resort vibe. Etro changes the traditional monotony of the check with color, injecting it with a more youthful and casual temperament.
Perhaps due to the rise of outdoor sports and the resurgence of functional wear, down jackets, which were once abandoned by the fashion industry because of "demeanor, not temperature", have made a comeback, and continue to fight back this season. When people began to return to the regular demands of the season, and as winter resort sports such as skiing began to become a trend, down jackets became the most popular item for winter.
Of course, because of the exaggerated curves and the sense of volume different from ordinary daily clothing, down jackets have characteristics such as personalization and street feeling, such as Rick Owens, which gives full play to this quality of down fabrics. Showcased through different fabrics or prints, down jackets are even more diverse this season.
Dries Van Noten
Louis Vuitton's satin flight jacket is a very good blend of these qualities, making the originally low-key and simple down jacket more attitude, using different colors of fabric to make bright green and gray tones contrast, creating an irregular visual impact. Dries Van Noten combines the traditional "Michelin" style down jacket with a sense of technology ripple print, making it more futuristic and urban. MSGM's down jacket adds street-inspired Slogan embroidery to the basic style, creating a down vest in bright colors, which is closer to the preferences of the younger group. Saint Laurent, on the other hand, makes down jackets extremely elegant, with large lapels and long designs, which are very clean and sharp, which can be described as grasping both style and temperature.
Kim Jones designed Dior's down jacket this season in the style of a life jacket, with a wide teardrop-shaped neckline and a pillared design at the chest. But the season's hottest items come from the Prada runway, which are experimental and fun, from almost round flight jackets to ultra-short down jackets or sharper down vests.
Actual wear is one of the main trends of Fall/Winter 2023 Fashion Week, and suits are the most representative items. With the "pouring" of haute couture by street culture, suits are no longer just exclusive to formal occasions, they can be finely tailored urban elites, casual and relaxed resort atmospheres, and can also be a symbol of trends that convey youth and personalization. By combining with different elements, the suit changes its serious and rigid appearance, in addition to being practical and versatile, it also has more possibilities in this autumn and winter.
Dris Van Noten
Dior's literary temperament this season is reflected in the loose and pleated suits, which have a good sense of space and naturally produce soft folds with movement, showing a refined and romantic temperament. Matthew M. Williams' Givenchy is also elegant, using haute couture to create delicate silhouettes, and the waist is tightly cinched to make every suit extremely neat. Dries Van Noten's elegant suits are a little more laid-back, and as a messenger of romanticism, the Belgian designer shows a unique masculine charm with precise but flowing lines through just the right cut. British designer Sarah Burton is like holding a surgical scalpel, allowing Alexander McQueen's suit this season to intuitively show the design of layering and hollowing, avant-garde but still practical. Gucci is more like improvisation, bringing us a retro big-cut suit combined with an unconventional contrast design that is very visually striking. Hermès' suit eliminates formality by patchwork, and the models seem to be heading to a book club, sophisticated and relaxed.
The slanted shoulders are one of the more interesting elements of the season, with its obtrusive shoulder structure and contradictory lines, which seems to run counter to the current silhouette cut. And it is this design that is extremely difficult to control, but it frequently appears on the autumn and winter 2023 runway, creating a high-profile bloody road in realism.
Hed Mayner's exaggerated slanted shoulder coat is particularly eye-catching, with tower-like fur collars visually constructing lines and exaggerated shapes, but a laid-back atmosphere that can also be interpreted in everyday life. It seems that this slanted shoulder style also caters to this season's oversized silhouette, and Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios, creates an outdoor feel with sloping shoulder tops, exaggerated dimensions that make the sunken shoulder line more visible, and the collapsed volume sends an avant-garde signal, interpreting the correct demonstration of oversized silhouettes in everyday wear.
Do these coats on the Loewe show remind you of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's The Little Prince? The neckline contrasts with the rounded rotator cuffs, and the exaggerated sleeves and narrowed waist are truly unforgettable. Of course, there are plenty of practical slanted shoulder coats to choose from. For example, Casablanca uses eye-catching patterns and large lapels to dissolve the exaggerated sense of shoulder lines, which looks everyday and easy to wear. Ami also offers more options for autumn and winter coats in this way, and the slanted shoulder style is more friendly than coats with sharp shoulder lines. Fendi combines a slanted shoulder jacket with a cape to make this winter warmer and more fashionable.
Commuter uniforms are an overlooked point this season, but worth mentioning separately. Commuting uniforms have always been a rigid demand for the public, and due to the large environment, the proportion of this season has increased significantly.
Traditionally, such clothing has been conservative and has always resisted major changes. But this season, designers seem to be putting aside traditional baggage, creating a chic and intimate commute atmosphere with coats, shirts, ties and more. In particular, the tie, which has a "sense of age" element, has revived its youthful look this season, and it has injected more personality and attitude into the outfit this autumn and winter.
Magliano creates a very personal image of a professional through loose and draped trench coats and shirts, as well as bright ties and tie clips, and the enlarged tie brings a retro nostalgic touch to the overall look. Valentino and Alexander McQueen's ties are the key to changing the temperament of dressing, whether it is a neat thin tie or a clever design that hides the tie in the garment, which brings more options for commuting.
Paul Smith blends street teenagers with the temperament of a commuter uniform, with a wide shirt and casual tie paired with a commuter cross-body bag, and the effortless chic feel has taken shape. Both Kenzo and Fendi create chic's commute style with silhouette suits and loose, flowy wide-leg pants, with contrast ties or accessories as the finishing touch. Zegna has made her shirts tougher this season, and the turtleneck sweater is paired with wool trousers for a weighty feel that also suits the winter vibe. In addition, the classic combination of a slim jacket and trousers can easily gain new possibilities by changing the color and way of wearing it like Prada.
Unlike the "gender ambiguity" trend, men's skirts, a streamlined style derived from traditional dress, have been deconstructed and reshaped into more modern styles this season, and have evolved into more complex, inclusive and diverse dress attitudes, which may become one of the daily items of the future.
Prada's navy blue dress fits perfectly with the brand's youthful temperament, simple and classic, even if it is not so everyday, but it can be easily controlled. The always maverick Owens offers us another possibility for long dresses, removing the design of the shoulder sleeves, the sleeveless long tube looks more modern, especially through the panels of different fabrics to make it full of details. Issey Miyake's sleeveless maxi dress is a lot more understated, the matte fabric provides good wrap, and walking produces micropleats that conform to the curves of the muscles, elegant and stylish. Saint Laurent uses an ultra-high neck and long sleeves with gloves and a long skirt to wrap the body without leaving a single gap, bringing out the mysterious temperament to the extreme. Willy Chavarria, on the other hand, combines a draped top with a satin dress, which is quite zen.
Dior's leather jacket is another variant, with a straight look and a cape-like casual feel thanks to the opening at the sleeves on both sides. Kiko Kostadinov combines the cocoon-like structure of the cloak with a long skirt, creating a dynamic effect through the silhouette edges and the flowing feeling of the fabric, full of dramatic tension.
Popular outdoor sports make sports equipment continue to become popular, further functional wear, a step back is daily sports wear. When people began to pay more attention to the clothing itself, comfort became an important symbol of this style.
Givenchy's brand identity has been deeply integrated with street style, including sportswear made of high-quality fabrics. Whether it's a ripped hoodie or a top with a hip-hop style extended hem, a uniform color combination is used, which makes the sportswear very personal but not too eye-catching. Emporio Armani brings the brand's elegance to the sportwear that emphasizes comfort this season, with nude soft fabrics paired with olive green leather accessories for a high-end texture that is both rigid and soft. Saint Laurent hides the sportpiece inside a towering silhouette, and underneath the vintage silhouette jacket is a sportsuit with a soft texture that shows off its youthful yet elegant touch. Louis Vuitton's sports suit is also interesting, combining a storm jacket with a long jacket, and then fully armed with uniform colors and fabrics. Balenciaga takes sportswear to another track, with exaggerated padded shoulders and a soaring collar, combined with a padded design for a grotesque futuristic feel.
What better way to cool in autumn and winter than a leather jacket? This fabric with a strong personality declares its home in a different posture every autumn and winter. With the development of science and technology, leather has long been no longer limited to traditional styles, and this season we have seen designers explore different forms of this fabric.
Fendi's superior leather craftsmanship is reflected this season, with a leather coat dyed in vintage colors paired with lightweight trousers that are less sharp and more romantic. With a long leather coat and boots, Loewe makes everything look gentle yet personal. Balmain's leather suits are similar, using the weight of the leather fabric itself to drape into a strong vintage atmosphere. Valentino's green dropped shoulder leather coat showcases the designer's penchant for bright colors in recent seasons, and paired with a shirt tie and glossy leather Chelsea boots, Gen Z's cynical casual is on the horizon. It is worth mentioning that Bottega Veneta's leather coat this season is the most recommended. Crocodile-like fabrics and leopard-print finishes, accented with a touch of blue lining and white cuffs, everything is just right. The matte leather suit also has a cool feeling of business integration with street style, the use of high technology, so that the fine grain of the leather presents the texture of the fabric, and the casual pleats also reflect the soft fit of the material.
With the change of diversified forms of expression in contemporary society, men's fashion has completely broken away from the tradition that has long been limited to a specific scope. People have more freedom to choose styles and styles, and have more space to explore their dress preferences. Bruce Pask, men's fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, said in an interview that the future of menswear trends will explore more blurred boundaries, "Although I hate to continue to use the word 'tolerance,' I want everyone to wear what they want, and I want to see people have more choice." After watching the trends of this season, do you have more possibilities for discovering your dressing style?
New Media Editor - Koi
Text - A13, Di
Image - provided by the brand