Text | Dovinci
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Sardinia is one of the five Longevity Blue Zones (LBZ) in the world. Compared to other blue zones, the proportion of male centenarians in Sardinia is much higher. Due to the island's isolation, the genetic characteristics of the Sardinians indicate that they are direct descendants of the ancestors of the Neolithic Nuraji.
In order to survive in times of food shortage, many "famine foods" were created; Acorn bread containing clay, cheese ripened in the goat's wrinkled stomach, and soft cheese with worms are examples of these less common foods. Although considered taboo by the outside world, they are regarded as cultural heritage and regional cuisine.
Studies have shown that the longevity of Sardinians is closely related to their special famine foods. They are not only nutritious; The production of these foods leads to low stress and longer life.
introduce
The Longevity Blue Zone, also known as the Blue Zone, describes places around the world where people have lived continuously for more than a century. There are currently 5 LBZs in the world: Loma Linda in the United States; Okinawa, Japan; Nicoya, Costa Rica; Ikaria, Greece; and Sardinia, Italy. The study found some similarities between people from these longevity blue zones.
They live in a community and family-centered environment thanks to a low-stress and relaxed lifestyle. In addition, they live in geographically and/or histically isolated areas. As a result, they have maintained a traditional lifestyle and have above-average activity levels throughout their lives. Finally, they use traditional methods to produce and consume locally produced food.
Sardinia is a large Italian island, located in the Mediterranean Sea, inhabited by ancient civilizations. Nuraghi stone structures dating back to the early Bronze Age testify to the ingenuity of the ancestors of the Sardinian people. Cut off from mainland Europe, research suggests that the existing population is descended from the Neolithic Nuraji.
The specific longevity blue zone of Sardinia is located in the mountains of the province of Oliestra and they usually work on farms. Isolated by mountains, the people of this longevity blue zone have maintained a traditional pastoral lifestyle and eat locally produced food.
Despite the cultural erosion and nutritional shifts caused by modernization, the majority of the Sardinian population in the Blue Zone of Longevity maintains their traditional habits and diet, eating a combination of garden vegetables and fruits in season and drying or marinating excess for off-season.
Throughout the ages, many difficult times of material scarcity have struck ancient civilizations. In order to survive such harsh times, ancient civilizations invented many methods of processing and preserving food. These foods are called backup foods or "famine foods."
Some famine foods used in Sardinia include acorn bread, a bitter black bread made from acorns and clay; There is also a cheese ripened in the wrinkled stomach of a baby goat with live worms inside. These foods are considered cultural heritage by locals and considered food taboos by outsiders.
Compared to other LBZs, it is worth noting that the proportion of centenarians in Sardinia is much higher [ 9 ]. It has also been revealed that the longevity of these people in Sardinia is causally related to their dietary factors. This review article aims to assess how unusual famine foods are associated with the longevity of Sardinians by promoting different diets, lifestyles and maintaining their traditions.
The difference between the Sardinian diet and the general diet of Western Europe and North America
In order to better understand the secrets of Sardinian longevity, it is necessary to understand their lifestyle and diet. Differences between different dietary components can be one of the key factors influencing the health patterns and longevity of different populations around the world. In this chapter, the diet of Sardinia will be compared with the average diet of the Western world.
The average American diet in North America, also known as the Standard American Diet, is very different from the Mediterranean region, especially the Sardinian diet from the eastern mountains. A USDA National Health and Nutrition Survey shows that in the standard American diet, about 47.3% of total calories come from carbohydrates, 34.9% from total fat, and 16.1% from protein.
European countries have different eating habits. For example, a study in France found that French consumers consume an average of 75.5 grams of fat, 205.6 grams of carbohydrates, 81.2 grams of protein and 11.8 grams of alcohol per day, which corresponds to a total energy intake of 2252 kcal.
So, this means that about 34% of energy intake comes from fat, 36.5% from carbohydrates, 14.4% from protein, and 3.6% from alcohol.
In Italy, 9.4% of the daily calorie intake comes from meat protein, 12.8% from dairy products, and 38.2% from cereals.
In contrast, the paper shows that in the Czech Republic, 13.5% of the calorie intake of 2000 kcal per day comes from meat, 38.5% from cereals, and only 7.5% from dairy products.
The Sardinian diet differs from that of the rest of the Western world in several ways. For example, the Sardinian diet is very low in animal protein and meat is rarely consumed, using it as a way to celebrate food or seasoned dishes (5% instead of 10 ~ 16% from European countries or the United States)
On the contrary, people in the blue zone of Sardinia rely heavily on the consumption of dairy products, especially goat milk and sheep milk products, for calorie intake. In U.S. standard foods, 47.3% are made up of carbohydrates, while only 13.7% of total grain intake for U.S. adults is made up of whole grains.
In comparison, 47% of the calories in the traditional Sardinian diet come from whole grains. In addition, the USDA estimates that one-third of the total grain consumption of the average U.S. citizen occurs in restaurants. These products are highly refined and processed to emphasize taste rather than nutrition.
The paper also estimates that a standard 1,000-calorie meal contains less than 9 grams of whole grains on average. On the contrary, 47% of the total calorie intake in the Sardinian diet consists of whole grains.
In addition to providing more micronutrients, consuming whole grains has other longevity benefits. Sardinians consume a handful of nuts every day, especially almonds (rich in vitamin E and magnesium), pistachios and walnuts (rich in α-linolenic acid-omega-3 fats).
A recently published systematic review noted that long-term consumption of whole grains rather than refined grains improved total cholesterol, triglyceride, and hemoglobin levels, all factors strongly associated with healthy bodily function and reduced risk of chronic or cardiovascular disease.
It was also shown that consuming whole grains instead of refined grains, balanced under the same kilocalories, resulted in a stronger feeling of fullness 3 hours after breakfast, 2 hours after lunch, and 1 hour after dinner. The increased feeling of satiety after meals helps Sardinians maintain a calorie-restricted diet of about 2,000 calories, which is associated with their longevity.
In comparison, the rest of Italy, the Czech Republic, and the United States had average calorie intake of 2149 kcal, 2572 kcal, and 2200 kcal, respectively.
This prolonged satiety is due to the fact that whole grains have a much lower glycemic index than highly refined grains. Foods with a higher glycemic index can cause insulin levels to fluctuate greatly. The long-term effects of high insulin volatility are associated with an increased risk of diabetes. Some experts also highlight 480 kcal, almost 23% of the daily calories of the standard American diet, from added sugars.
Some sources of added sugar include sweetened carbonated drinks, candy, cakes, and cookies. These foods are high in calories and high in glycemic index, but also low in nutrients. They have been shown to increase the risk of chronic diseases such as cardiovascular disease or diabetes. In contrast, only 3% of the calories in the diet of Sardinians come from added sugars.
The nutrient density of vegetables is much higher than that of meat and grains. Therefore, even if the same number of calories are consumed, vegetables are more nutritious and provide a wider range of micronutrients, such as antioxidants and vitamins, which are known for promoting good health.
The consumption of vegetables in the Sardinian diet is much higher compared to other European countries; That's about 12% of total calorie intake, compared to 6%, 2.5%, and 1.3% for the average person in France, the rest of Italy, and the Czech Republic.
In contrast, a traditional Korean vegetable-based diet based on foraging for wild plants in the fields or mountains dates back to periods of food shortages, one study said, concluding that this diet is rich in micronutrients and is associated with longevity among the local Korean population.
It is worth noting that since vegetables have a lower caloric density compared to cereals, dairy products and meat, the difference in calories from vegetables by 6 ~ 10% means that the intake of vegetables is much larger than the number at first glance.
In general, the Sardinian diet differs from the Western diet or the American diet in other European countries in terms of macronutrient content. These differences in the composition of macronutrients may also have played an important role in the longevity of the Sardinian population.
The Sardinian diet is much lower in added sugar, which can further reduce the risk of obesity and diabetes by lowering spikes in insulin levels. Finally, more vegetable consumption provides more micronutrients and antioxidants, 22]. Therefore, it is necessary to understand how the unique food of Sardinians helps them achieve such a healthy diet.
Famine food unique to the traditional Sardinian diet
Reserve food or traditional vegetables is a term that describes a group of secondary food groups of people from a specific geographic area or culture. In difficult times when resources are scarce, people consume unusual foods to fight hunger and provide vital nutrients needed to survive. These foods are called "famine foods".
Over time, famine food ceased to be a necessity but an integral part of food culture. Snails, rotten cheese with maggots and clay bread are still common in Sardinia and are considered ancestral delicacy. Due to the special nature of these foods, they are often regarded as food taboos by the outside world, and at the same time regarded as intangible cultural heritage and ancestral treasures.
The similarity of "neglected foods" around the world is that, although they are not attractive to modern consumers, they have proven to be nutritious, sustainable, and beneficial to health in the long term.
Abamele
Abamelai is one of the oldest recorded honey products in Sardinia and consists of honey, pollen, water and honeycomb. In order to make Abamelai, honey is first extracted from the hive. Subsequently, the honeycomb is crushed and immersed in warm water to separate the wax from the pollen and residual honey.
Finally, add orange or lemon zest while boiling the mixture until a brown product with a moisture content between 17.7 and 27.7% is obtained. This is very different compared to traditional honey, which is produced in several steps. The first step is to filter out beeswax, pollen, and other particles. After filtration, the honey is heated to 60 to 65 °C to concentrate the honey to a moisture content of about 17% while maintaining color and flavor by minimizing caramelization. Finally, a short period of high-temperature treatment is performed to destroy microorganisms. Compared to traditional honey, Abbamele has a richer flavor and more micronutrients.
Polyphenols in honey products are known to protect against heart disease, while pollen collected by bees has anti-mutage, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, which is attributed to its phenolic compounds, especially flavonoids. Locals in southern Portugal employ similar production methods to produce nutrient-rich Água-mel. Currently, handmade abamelai is one of the most popular foods in Sardinia and sells for ten times more than traditional honey.
Acorn bread
Acorns are nuts produced from the oak tree that, although ubiquitous, are rarely consumed daily. Acorns contain high amounts of tannins and are known to be toxic to humans and many mammals. To prepare Pan' Ispeli, acorn bread, acorns are crushed and soaked in water to filter out some tannins and reduce toxicity [32, 33]. The clay is then mixed with acorn powder to further counteract the toxicity and bitterness of the tannins. The clay also provides the pitch-black color of Pan' Ispeli. Geophagy is a term to describe soil consumption that still exists in poorer countries in Africa.
At present, acorn bread is no longer part of the traditional Sardinian diet. However, bread is still prepared and consumed during celebrations and celebrations. Locals who still possess preparation skills are proud that they inherited this knowledge, traditions and wisdom from their ancestors and were able to survive the harshest times of extreme hunger.
Caraso bread
Caraso bread is a traditional Sardinian sourdough bread made from durum wheat flour, yeast, water and salt. The bread is prepared using the double baking technique, which aims to further reduce the moisture content than regular flatbread. Thus, Carasso bread can be stored for several months without losing its organoleptic properties.
A longer shelf life is also essential for shepherds because their lifestyle is nomadic and they often do not have access to perishable food.
Studies have shown that the lactic acid bacteria strains in sour dough used by locals produce special peptides and γ-aminobutyric acid with antihypertensive effects.
In addition, Carasso bread has a low glycemic index, which helps reduce the risk of chronic diseases such as diabetes. Therefore, Caraso bread not only nourished the ancestors of Sardinia in difficult times, the healthy composition of this food may have played a vital role in their longevity.
Crab cakes
Crab cake is a traditional Sardinian food consisting of edible goat rennet (EGR) and soft cheese . The word Kagiu de Krabitu is translated into child's rennet in Sardinian. This unusual cheese is made by ripening goat's milk for 30 to 60 days inside the wrinkled stomach of the baby goat.
The stomach wrinkled stomach shows that it does not contain pathogenic bacteria and also contains a large number of mesophilic lactic acid bacteria (i.e., Lactobacoccus lactis, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus paracasei, etc.). Ryannet contains special proteases and lipases that release short- and medium-chain free fatty acids (FFAs) that contribute to the flavor of this cheese.
Compared to modern cheese, raw milk, lactic acid bacteria diversity and abundance of free fatty acids have many health benefits, such as improved protection against allergies or atopic diseases, promotion of gut health, and improved anti-inflammatory activity.
Initially, Sardinian shepherds used a wrinkled stomach as a bag to carry food. This spreadable soft cheese is often eaten with crab cakes to provide a nutritious, healthy and sustainable meal. Today, Kagiu de Krabitu is the signature cheese of Sardinia due to its unusual preparation methods and flavors.
Kasumazoo
Another unusual cheese in Sardinia. The word Casumazu means "rotten cheese" in Sardinian. To make this cheese, goat's milk is first curled with rennet and then left in brine for a day. Over the next 15 days of maturation, the cheese is exposed to flies.
After fermentation, countless worms are placed inside the cheese. Currently, some producers are using specially bred captive flies to ensure food safety. This cream cheese was meant to be eaten with live bugs, which is usually not accepted by the outside world and is considered offensive.
Despite efforts to control food safety and document the history of this food, it is not identified by EU databases as a traditional food. Therefore, this food is not known or desirable outside the region, and its sale is banned in many countries, including Italy, because live worms are considered carriers of the parasite.
Studies have shown that eating insects has countless health benefits. According to the study, edible insects may contain up to 30% essential amino acids because they are very high in protein and can improve the human gut microbiome.
Another study also highlighted a high number of vitamins, minerals, and polysaccharides that help boost the body's immune function. Despite being rejected by most of the world, this particular cheese has proven to have great health benefits, while controlled production guarantees food safety and hygiene.
There is no doubt that Casumazu plays an important role in the longevity of Sardinians, both as a symbol and due to its rich nutrient content.
Traditional foods: Beyond nutrition
Research shows that the five longevity blue zones have many similarities in habits and practices. Some important habits associated with longevity include natural exercise, controlling dietary intake, reducing life stress, and commitment to family and loved ones. Traditionally, Sardinians attach great importance to local development and a self-sufficient lifestyle.
This ideology focuses on the quality of food, not the quantity. This is contrary to current food trends, where the goal of globalized mass production is to focus on production costs and efficiency while maximizing export profits.
local food production in Sardinia, especially in the mountains, an idyllic lifestyle centered on low-density agriculture in which shepherds graze livestock on open land; The key mindset is to follow and respect natural factors such as seasonal changes as well as water availability and pasture. This method of production has a minimal impact on the environment, and the food produced is self-sufficient, rather than pursuing profit through quantity. Compared to the traditional agricultural lifestyle,
Cultural Food Heritage: Protection from modernization and cultural erosion
Modernization is often associated with increased efficiency and yield, leading to an increased overall pace of life. The digital age has further accelerated this daily life by providing easier access to media, information, and faster access to services that required face-to-face services before the development of informatics.
As a result, a culture of "immediacy" has developed among people exposed to this lifestyle. Everything needs to be fast and efficient.
The food that was eaten by the masses in the past, often referred to as "peasant cuisine", is the definition of the living conditions and habits of local civilizations throughout the ages. Monuments and handicrafts are constantly inscribed on the World Heritage List and used as carriers of economic development. The world has recently begun to pay attention to national food as part of cultural and intangible heritage.
In Sardinia, many farm delicacies have become an important part of the cultural heritage of the locals. For example, bread, an important staple of the Sardinian diet, is also highly valued for its authenticity.
A family member made bread using wood in a traditional oven, whose knowledge is passed down from generation to generation through an apprenticeship, is considered authentic and of high quality. In contrast, locals often consider commercial purchases to be "useless".
Festivals are also often associated with cultural practices and are accompanied by traditional food. For example, the local festival S'arrostu is known to have grilled meat over an open fire. Meat deemed suitable for holiday consumption must come from animals raised on natural pastures on public territory using traditional methods.
In general, while modernization has caused cultural erosion and nutritional shifts in some parts of Sardinia, Sardinians rely on their strong cultural practices and traditions to sustain their customs and the way of life of their ancestors.
In conclusion, many of the unusual foods consumed in Sardinia have their origins in ancient times, created by the ancestors of the local population in order to survive extreme food shortages. These "famine foods" are considered fasting because of their unique appearance, flavor or content.
Emphasizing that famine food is not only very nutritious, but proper preparation and careful control can also ensure that food is as safe and hygienic as traditional food.
Moreover, Sardinia's "famine food" has also been of great benefit in dominating people's food production and lifestyle, while helping them maintain the way of life of their ancestors by providing cultural references and solidarity. Therefore, the "famine food" of Sardinia undoubtedly played a crucial role in the longevity of LBZ Sardinian residents.
Bibliography:
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- The Blue Zone: The Longest-lived Region of the World by Popul Res. 2013；11：87–108。
- Four Thousand Years of Evolution. World Archaeology 1998;30:59-71.
- "Genetic History from the Middle Neolithic Period to Mediterranean Sardinia" National Commune. 2020；11：1-14。