Nanling is a one-leaf ark of the glacial period, which preserves relict plants and rare animals such as alder and fairy lake cycads. In folk, crocodile lizards are known as "big sleeping snakes", living fossils of lizards, living in the same era as dinosaurs, 165 million years ago. The number of existing wild crocodile lizards in mainland China is about 1200, and there are 770~887 wild crocodile lizards in Nanling Luokeng crocodile lizard reserve, accounting for about two-thirds of the wild crocodile lizard population in China.
The most concentrated landforms of Danxia in China
70% of China's Danxia is concentrated in and around Nanling. The granite-based Nanling has undergone hundreds of millions of years of wind and rain to create a majestic Danxia. In 2010, Laoshan in Hunan Province, Danxia Mountain in Guangdong, Taining in Fujian, Chishui in Guizhou, Longhu Mountain in Jiangxi Province and Jianglang Mountain in Zhejiang Province were inscribed on the World Natural Heritage List.
The largest Yao settlement in China
Guangdong has Ruyuan Yao Autonomous County, Liannan Yao Autonomous County, Lianshan Zhuang Yao Autonomous County, Hunan has Jianghua Yao Autonomous County, Guangxi has Fuchuan Yao Autonomous County, Jinxiu Yao Autonomous County, etc., there are 13 Yao named counties on both sides of Nanling, and a residual vein of Nanling in Guangxi is called Dayao Mountain. Nanling is the largest Yao settlement in China.
The largest Hakka settlement in China
The Hakka origin began in the Qin Dynasty, Lingnan Rongbaiyue period, through the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Tang and Song dynasties. They migrated all the way and found their "promised land" in the north and south of Nanling, multiplying, and now the eastern mountains of Nanling in Fujian, Guangdong and Gan are the base camp of the Hakka people.
One of the world's first man-made canals
- Lingqu
Built in 218 BC and lasting four years, the Lingqu is about 37 kilometers long, running north and west from the county seat of Xing'an, connecting the Xiangli and Li rivers, and is also the first canal in China to use "graded locks".
The world's tungsten, antimony, ionic medium and heavy rare earths are the most concentrated production areas
The movement of land plates promotes the intrusion of lava magma deep underground into the surface, which constitutes the main body of the Nanling Mountain Range after cooling, making Nanling not only have a complex and changeable landform, but also contain extremely rich mineral resources. Among them, Nanling tungsten and antimony ore are the world's most concentrated production areas. Dayu County, Ganzhou, Jiangxi is known as the tungsten capital of the world, and Yaogang Xian in Yizhang, Hunan is also an important tungsten mining area. The Nanling area is also the most important distribution area for ionic medium and heavy rare earth ores.
"National Treasure" fragrant stone
Xianghua stone is the first new mineral discovered by Chinese geologists, named after Xianghualing, Hunan Province, where it was discovered, is a mineral unique to Xianghualing, similar to animal giant pandas, known as "national treasure". The discovery of fragrant stone is an important milestone in the history of Chinese geology and domestic mineralogy.
"Panda among snakes": Mangshan original spearhead viper
You may not have heard of the Mangshan original spearhead viper, but you must have heard of the Mangshan soldering iron head. The Mangshan original spearhead viper can grow up to 2.2 meters in size and weigh up to 4 kilograms, which can be regarded as a giant poisonous snake in the poisonous snake family. Mangshan original spearhead viper, a poisonous snake species, is only distributed in Mangshan, Nanling, Hunan Province, is a national treasure-level rare animal, listed as endangered (EN) species in the IUCN Red List, and critically endangered (CR) species in the "China Biodiversity Red List".
The first peak in South China - Mao'er Mountain
Mao'er Mountain, located in the northwest of Xing'an County, spanning Xing'an and Resources 2 counties, with an area of 53,000 hectares, is one of the five ridges of Yuechengling main peak, the highest altitude of 2142 meters, it is not only the first peak in Guangxi, but also the first peak in South China. The peak is a granite boulder that resembles a reclining cat, so it is called Cat Mountain.
Meiguan Ancient Road - the most complete preserved ancient road in China
Meiguan Ancient Road, historically extending from Meiling to the north, connecting the Zhangjiang River in the north, the Zhenjiang River in the south, connecting the Yangtze River and the Pearl River, is the most complete ancient road preserved in the ancient mainland China.
China's three major root-seeking places - Zhuji Lane
Like the big locust tree in Shanxi and the gooseneck pond in Jiangxi, Zhuji Lane is the most important migration transit point in Lingnan. So far, more than 180 surnames have been relocated from Zhuji Lane, and its descendants have multiplied to more than 70 million people, all over the world. Zhuji Alley is known as the ancestral residence of Guangfu people, one of the three major root-seeking places in China, the birthplace of Canton culture, and is known as "the Chinese cultural station, the root of Cantonese under the world".
Nanling, the bell of the Creation Institute, a land of divine beauty. At the latitude of Nanling, there are many deserts and deserts, only Nanling, which is a lush forest.
Viewed from above, in South China, between 23 ° ~ 27 ° north latitude and 109 ° ~ 116 ° east longitude, there is a mountain range stretching about 700 kilometers from east to west and about 400 kilometers wide from north to south, five mountain groups, trending northeast-southwest, messy and lively, embracing each other and independent of each other, this is Nanling.
The South Ridge, which is not majestic, is a very important geographical dividing line. Nanling subdivides the south into Jiangnan and Lingnan, and also separates the Yangtze River basin and the Pearl River basin.
The South Ridge blocks the cold air from the south, and also allows the warm and humid air flow from the north to stay here, and the river is nurtured here, nourishing the people north and south of the mountain range. Mountains, water and time work together to carve this land, shaping the colorful and rich Nanling China that we are familiar with and unfamiliar with.
Written by/Reporter Tang Bingbing
Without Nanling, how much color would China's mountains and rivers lose?
In March, we embarked on our journey through the South Ridge. The first stop is Dayuling, unfortunately, we missed the plum blossoms in Meiling.
Along the cobbled ancient road from Dayu in Jiangxi to Meiling, the ancient road is one foot wide, which is definitely an ancient highway. The first pass in Lingnan, Meiguan, stands at the mouth of Meiling, and the border line between Jiangxi and Guangdong passes through Meiguan, and one foot can step on two provinces. Meiling is the most core area of Dayuling and the best preserved and representative ancient pass in Nanling. Meiguan is not high in altitude, 746 meters, and the average altitude of the entire Nanling is only about 1000 meters. Standing in Meiguan, you will be somewhat curious, how can such a low mountain withstand the cold air from the south?
Without the height of the cross, Nanling, how can it shape China?
The South Ridge in the narrow sense includes only five ridges. From east to west, the five ridges are Dayuling, Qitianling, Mengzhuling, Dupanling, and Yuechengling. In a broad sense, Nanling, with Wuling as the main body, extends to the east and is connected to the Wuyi Mountains, to the west to the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, to the south it is integrated with the Jiulian Mountains, and to the north it is connected to the Luoxiao Mountains. Including Jiujiang Mountain, Wanyang Mountain, Zhuguang Mountain, Lianshan, Ocean Mountain, etc. It is this shattered mountain area that forms a barrier in southern China, blocking cold air from the north and keeping Chinese winter north of Nanling.
Mangshan Mountain is located in Yizhang County, Hunan Province, at the northern foot of the Nanling Mountain Range, overlooking Hengyang in the north and Shaoguan in the south.
Nanling is where the 10°C isotherm of the mainland winter is located. According to reason, the South Ridge, which is not high, is actually difficult to block the cold air from the south, just because the South Ridge is located in the south, the cold air rushes thousands of miles, and it is already the end of the strong crossbow here, it is difficult to cross the South Ridge, unless it encounters a "BOSS" level cold wave, otherwise, Lingnan is rarely able to have a real meteorological winter. However, the valleys and passes between the Nanling mountains are the passage of cold waves in the north and the south, and Lingnan can still be threatened by cold air in winter.
The South Ridge blocks the cold air from the south, and also blocks the warm and humid air flow from the north. The precipitation line of 1600 mm is roughly distributed along the southern foothills of Nanling and Wuyi Mountain. The mountains on the south side of Nanling block part of the water vapor from going north, and under the action of terrain uplift, the annual precipitation can even reach 2000 mm in some areas. It seems to be the rainy season all year round, with still rain lasting for two months in spring, typhoon rain at the turn of summer and autumn, and frontal rain in winter. Temperature and rainfall also make Nanling the dividing line between the South Asian tropical monsoon humid climate zone and the central subtropical monsoon humid climate zone.
Rivers, born here. The source of Hunan's mother river, the Xiang River, is in Yangshan, Xiaoshui, Fuyishui, Gonglingshui, Yushui and Zhangshui (north, Yangtze River basin), Li River, Guijiang River, He River, Lianjiang River, Wushui River, Zhenjiang River (south, Pearl River basin) all originate in Nanling, but they all run north and south. Nanling, which separates the Yangtze River basin and the Pearl River basin, has shaped the basic geographical pattern of Hunan, Jiangxi, Guangdong and Guangxi, and also achieved the vast Dongting and Poyang Lake.
Shaoguan Qujiang, Zhang Jiuling's former residence ancestral hall.
The granite-based Nanling has been nourished, invaded and carved for hundreds of millions of years to achieve the most splendid southern scenery.
The majestic Danxia (Shaoyang Laoshan Mountain, Shaoguan Danxia Mountain, Jiangxi Longhu Mountain, etc.), the colorful and ingenious Guilin landscape, the majestic and dangerous Grand Canyon (Ruyuan Grand Canyon), the green and mysterious primeval forest (Mangshan National Forest Park, Nanling National Forest Park, Nanshan National Forest Park, Yangmingshan National Forest Park, etc.)... Without Nanling, how much color would China's mountains and rivers lose?
It was once the "Huayi Realm" that was difficult to cross in the heart of Shi Dafu
Not everyone can discover the splendor of Southridge.
For the First Emperor, who was ambitious and determined to unify, Nanling was a fish bone stuck in his throat. For a long time, Nanling was also a high wall in the hearts of the literati of the Central Plains that was difficult to climb.
The barrier of Nanling is not only geographical, but also in the hearts of people. After unifying the six kingdoms, Qin Shi Huang decided to remove this fish bone and send 500,000 troops to conquer Baiyue in five ways, which also became the indiscriminate name of Nanling called Wuling. Nanling blocked the cold air from the south, but could not stop the powerful Qin army from the north. In 214 BC, the Qin army defeated the Baiyue tribes, and Lingnan was incorporated into the territory of the Qin Dynasty, and three counties of Guilin, Xiang, and Nanhai were set up in the Lingnan region.
Zhuji Lane Memorial Arch, Zhuji Lane is a transit point for Lingnan migration.
Qin Shi Huang's wish for immortality was finally frustrated, and he had an indisputable son. Seven years after the unification of Lingnan, the Qin Dynasty collapsed. At the time of Qin's death, Zhao Tuo, the commander of Nanhai Commandery, sealed the Pass and annexed Guilin County and Xiang County in Lingnan, and formally established the state of Nanyue in the third year of Emperor Gaozu of Han (204 BC). Faced with Empress Lu's accusation that "there is no two days", Zhao Tuo said lightly that he "steals the imperial throne and chats to entertain himself." Perhaps it is precisely because of this spirit of "self-entertainment" that Zhao Tuo has lived exceptionally long and lived more than a hundred years. From the era of Qin Shi Huang to the era of Emperor Wudi of Han, he also passed letters with Emperor Wudi of Han and intersected with Emperor Hanwu of Qin, and he can be regarded as the first person in history. It was Emperor Wudi of Han who destroyed the state of Nanyue. In the sixth year of the Yuan Dynasty (111 BC), the Han Dynasty army crossed the South Ridge and swept away South Vietnam. The fifth king of the state of South Vietnam, divided for 93 years.
Nanling made Qin Shi Huang and Han Wudi.
Lingnan, which returned to the Central Plains Dynasty, is still a realm far away from the emperor of heaven. In the hearts of the people of the Central Plains, Nanling is the boundary of Huayi, a high wall. The Tang Dynasty poet Tang said that there is a verse "Ridge Road divides middle summer". The famous poet of the early Tang Dynasty, Song Zhiwen, was degraded to Lingnan and wrote the verse "Duling Fang Ci Guo". Those who were degraded to Lingnan, when crossing the Dayuling Mountains, could not help but wonder: "How many times have you seen the south?" "Before the Song Dynasty, Nanling was not only a natural barrier defining the north and south of Lingnan, nor was it only a Guan Pass Hole Road guarding Jiangxi and Hunan, but also a cultural symbol, a dividing line between Huayi and Huayi, "heaven and earth separated inside and outside".
After Zhang Jiuling excavated the Meiguan Ancient Road in the Tang Dynasty, it became the busiest trade road, and the horse's hooves left their marks on the stones, witnessing the glory of the ancient road.
This dividing line, constructed by frustration and prejudice, is far more difficult to cross than the South Ridge, which is a natural barrier. It was not until the Ming and Qing dynasties that the "Chu-Guangdong dividing line" as a geographical dividing line gradually replaced the "Huayi dividing line" in Shi Dafu's heart.
Nanling, far away from the political center and far away from the Heavenly High Emperor, brought Shi Dafu infinite frustration and misery. But for ordinary people, it means freedom, tolerance and enough space to live. In China's successive waves of immigration, many ethnic groups have chosen to stop in Nanling and multiply, shaping a diverse and colorful ethnic corridor - the "Nanling Corridor". Among the six major ethnic corridors, the Nanling corridor is the area with the highest proportion of ethnic minority population in the mainland, the widest distribution and the superior natural environment. There are not only Zhuang, Buyi, Dong, Shui, Mulao, Maonan, etc. of the Zhuang-Dong language family, but also the Miao, Yao, and She ethnic groups of the Miao and Yao language groups. They migrated along the Nanling Kongdao and confronted and blended with the local aborigines, creating a rich Lingnan culture together.
The most representative migrant group is the Hakka people, and Nanling has sheltered their bumpy footsteps and become the starting point for their new wanderings.
How majestic the Hakka walled houses are, how difficult the life of the Hakka people is here.
In the Nanling, Gan, Fujian, and Guangdong border areas, it is not easy for Hakka to breed here. How majestic and sturdy the Hakka walled houses are, how difficult and dangerous the life of the Hakka is. The Hakka Wai in Shaoguan is the largest Hakka walled house in Lingnan, like a labyrinth, 28 patios, 777 rooms, 17 gun holes, like a strict bunker. In those Hakka "bunkers" in Nanling, how many Hakka people are afraid and sleepless at night?
How did Nanling change Hunan? The most intuitive change that Nanling has made to Hunan is the climate. In the wet and cold winter in Hunan, Nanling has to bear certain responsibility.
Nanling blocks the cold air from the north, and the semi-circular arc formed by the southern ridge of Wuyi Mountain makes the cold air have nowhere to escape, and can only accumulate in Lingbei, and the number of cold waves encountered in the southern Shonan region of Lingbei is more than that of northern Xiangbei, and it is shrouded in cold air for a long time, which is more wet and cold than northern Xiang. Liu Zongyuan and Qin Guan, who were degraded to southern Shonan, experienced the cold and humid winter in southern Shonan, and they all missed the hearty winter in the north.
The valleys and pores between the South Ridges are not enough to dilute the cold air in Hunan, but they are enough to make Hunan go to Lingnan and the world.
Wuling is also the five passages to Lingnan. Except for Dayuling, the other four ridges are all in Hunan. After the end of the war, Kongdao of the Southern Expedition became a commercial road. The capital of Chang'an in the Qin, Han and Tang dynasties, passing through Liaolingnan, Xuwen in Guangdong and Hepu in Guangxi are important foreign transportation and trade ports, leading to the countries of the South China Sea, and Hunan is the nearest route, and Hunan, has become the country's transportation artery. Yuechengling has a Lingqu to connect the Xiangjiang River and Lishui, the Central Plains southbound boat boat along the Xiangjiang River traced back to Xing'an, Guangxi, through the Lingqu, directly into the Pearl River system, along the waterway to Xuwen, Hepu, Panyu (now Guangzhou), sail to the sea, Yuechengling was once the most important channel to communicate Lingnan Lingbei, Changsha kiln porcelain, is through this passage to the world. Business travel from south to north all pass through Hunan. The once prosperous ancient roads of Qitianling, Mengzhuling and Dupangling can be faintly seen in the remaining ancient roads.
After the Tang Dynasty, the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal was opened, the economic, talent, and political centers moved east, Guangzhou became the most important port, and Zhang Jiuling presided over the excavation of Dayuling, and the status of Hunan as a traffic artery was replaced by Jiangxi. Dayuling has also become the most important passage to Lingnan.
To the south is Xiongguan Meiguan, to the south is Guangdong, to the north is Jiangxi.
The tug-of-war between Hunan and Jiangxi, the old watch who loves and kills each other, has not ended. With the advent of the railway era, the Guangdong-Han Railway, which connects the north and the south, finally chose Hunan and rode Tianling to become an important traffic gateway again in the context of modern transportation. The once busiest National Highway 107, Beijing-Guangzhou Railway, high-speed railway, and the ancient Xiangyue Ancient Road are moving side by side, like a thousand-year traffic history of Nanling.
Nanling, straddling the southern part of Hunan, blocks the eyes of Hunan people looking at the ocean and the world.
Fortunately, Nanling has left holes and valleys, allowing Hunan to peek, climb, and reach the vast world outside. If going north along the Xiang River is the mainstream path for Hunan to enter political power and enter the historical stage, then Nanling provides another possibility for Hunan - doing business. Over the South Ridge, the sky and the sea are wide, and the world is wide. From the moment it crossed the South Ridge, Hunan was no longer closed, and the open seeds had germinated. If you want to use a mountain to describe the people of Hunan, I think Nanling is the most appropriate - closed, open, tenacious, inclusive, free.