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In memory of Chen Jianyi: How did Mapo tofu fascinate the Japanese?

author:Dongying is a jack of all trades

Special reporting team of Chinese Herald

At noon on March 11, a message appeared in the headlines of Yahoo in Japan, and also appeared on the Twitter of major Japanese media: "Chen Jianyi, the iron man of cooking, died in a hospital in Tokyo due to pneumonia." Why did the unfortunate death of a Chinese chef attract media coverage in Japan? Because without Chen Jianyi's father and him, "mapo tofu" would not have become synonymous with Chinese cuisine, and Chinese cuisine would not have been created in Japan.

In memory of Chen Jianyi: How did Mapo tofu fascinate the Japanese?

Chen Jianyi. China News Network video clipping

The tourist visa was renewed for "Mapo Tofu"

The Chen Jianyi family has created a legend of Chinese cuisine in Japanese society, and this legend begins with Chen Jianyi's father, Chen Jianmin. Chen Jianmin is a native of Zigong, Sichuan, and in 1948, Chen Jianmin went to Hong Kong to open a Sichuan restaurant. In 1952, he came to Japan from Hong Kong on a tourist visa, lived in the home of his fellow villagers in Sichuan, and often cooked for everyone. The mastery of his cooking has amazed the chefs around him.

There is an anecdote around Chen Jianmin entering Japan on a tourist visa, but since then he has settled in Japan by opening a restaurant. When Chen Jianmin was in Japan, he was tasted and praised by officials of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs because of the deliciousness of the dishes he cooked. On the eve of his visa expiration, the cooks who knew each other had dinner to feed him, and the news that Mr. Chen was leaving Japan reached the ears of officials who had eaten his mapo tofu. If the chef leaves Japan because his visa expires, he will never be able to eat his meals again. A special visa extension permit went to Chen Jianmin. Since then, Chen Jianmin has also had one more job, providing takeaway food delivery for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

In memory of Chen Jianyi: How did Mapo tofu fascinate the Japanese?

Chen Jianmin (left) and Chen Jianyi

The spicy and fragrant Sichuan Hotel was born

In 1958, Long Zhiyi, who was born in Taiwan, opened the Sichuan Hotel in Shinbashi, Chen Jianmin was in charge of the kitchen, and later he opened his own Akasaka store in the form of independent stores, and then opened the second store in Roppongi. Chen Jianmin, who originally excelled in high-end cuisine, transformed and seasoned Chinese cuisine so that more people could eat delicious Chinese cuisine, and created Chinese cuisine such as mapo tofu for the Japanese.

As Chen Jianmin's reputation became more and more popular, NHK's "Today's Cuisine" also invited him to star. He cooks live on TV shows and makes Japanese-style roasted shrimp, kabu meat, tantan noodles, and mapo tofu. When the announcer on the side asked him exactly which seasoning to put and how much, Chen Jianmin, who was not fluent in Japanese, said in Zigong dialect while focusing on cooking over a high fire: "Look, look." "The unique atmosphere was immediately loved by the audience.

As the saying goes, learning to cook is like stealing a master, but Chen Jianmin broke this "no outside" style in Japan, not only publishing recipes, but also founding the Chinese Cuisine Academy, which has cultivated more than 15,000 chefs.

In memory of Chen Jianyi: How did Mapo tofu fascinate the Japanese?

Chen Jianyi. China News Network video clipping

"The Iron Man of Chinese Cuisine" is popular all over Japan

The son of Chen Jianmin and Japanese wife Yoko, Chen Jianyi, who was born in Japan, entered a Sichuan restaurant after graduating from university to learn cooking, following his father's back and taking Chinese cuisine to the next level. In 1990, when Chen Jianyi was 34 years old, his father Chen Jianmin passed away, and Chen Jianyi inherited the Sichuan Hotel.

In 1993, Chen Jianyi starred in the Fuji TV series "Cooking Iron Man", which caused great repercussions throughout Japan, and until 1999, he starred for 6 consecutive years, and his reputation became a household name in Japan. In this show, 17 games were won, and he became close to the French chef and Japanese chef who starred together. Chen Jianyi has published many cooking books, and he is approachable to teach Japanese people to cook Chinese cooking, saying that he has supported Chinese cuisine for a long time.

In memory of Chen Jianyi: How did Mapo tofu fascinate the Japanese?

Writings by Chen Jianyi

The show was so famous that it was written into a novel.

Under the management of Chen Jianyi, Sichuan Hotel has developed smoothly and opened stores in Akasaka, Ikebukuro, Shizuoka, Nagoya, Tokushima, Kure, Matsuyama, Hakata, etc., becoming a benchmark for Chinese cuisine in Japan. However, God was jealous of talent, in 2010, Chen Jianyi checked his body and found lung cancer, entered the recuperation after surgery, and the operation of the Sichuan Hotel was handed over to his son Chen Jiantaro.

In 2013, Chen was awarded the Yellow Ribbon Medal, a medal awarded by the Emperor of Japan to meritorious individuals.

In memory of Chen Jianyi: How did Mapo tofu fascinate the Japanese?

Three generations of Chen have spared no effort to popularize Chinese food

People who like food must be no stranger to Chen Jianyi, Sichuan cuisine is his business card, in addition to Chen Jianyi has also made outstanding contributions to the popularization of Chinese food in Japan.

In 1992, Chen Jianyi participated in the Japanese cooking program "Tetsujin Cuisine" Challenge, and achieved a record of 17 consecutive wins with a record of 67 wins, 22 defeats and 3 draws, and was invincible in the Japanese food industry, setting the highest record in the history of "Tetsujin Cuisine", which no one has broken so far. Such achievements cannot be achieved without a solid foundation.

Chen Jianyi is not only the head chef of the restaurant, he is also committed to the cultivation of Chinese cuisine, including Sichuan cuisine, and latecomers. He is the author of books such as "Chinese Cuisine of Iron Man Chen Jianyi", "Chen Jianyi's Daily Side Dishes", "My Truth or Truth Cooking", "The Law of the Iron Pot", "Inheriting My Father's Work and Making Your Own Taste", and has also appeared on the most popular programs of NHK and Fuji TV in Japan, teaching cooking knowledge and secrets.

In memory of Chen Jianyi: How did Mapo tofu fascinate the Japanese?

Writings by Chen Jianyi

On November 10, 2008, the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare released this year's "Modern Celebrity Chef" list, and Chen Jianyi, the chef of Tokyo's "Sichuan Hotel" and nicknamed "Cooking Ironman", was on the list. As early as 1987, his father Chen Jianmin also appeared on the list of "Modern Celebrity Chefs". Father and son have successively won the title of "Modern Celebrity Chef", which can be described as a first in Japanese history. In 2011, Chen Jianyi was elected as the president of the Japan Chinese Cuisine Association.

Chen Jianyi later handed over the management of the "Sichuan Hotel" to his son Chen Jiantaro because he was unwell. However, it is said that Chen Jianyi insisted on working as a chef in the shop while receiving treatment. On May 14, 2022, Chen Jianyi and his son Chen Jiantaro also appeared at the scene of Japan's "2022 Sichuan Festival" together, and personally took charge of the spoon at the Sichuan hotel booth, which caused quite a sensation. The mapo tofu cooked by their father and son was sold out at 12 noon, which shows its popularity.

In addition, Chen Jiantaro, the third generation of the Chen family in Japan, has pushed "Sichuan Hotel" and Chen's Sichuan cuisine to another level, and "Sichuan Hotel" has even gone out of Japan and opened overseas branches in Southeast Asia.

Chen Jiantaro also inherited the mantle of his elders, graduated from university at the age of 22 and went to Chengdu to learn more authentic Sichuan cuisine in 2005 to learn from a teacher, and is currently in charge of more than ten Sichuan restaurants, including the Singapore branch of "Sichuan Hotel", which has been awarded two Michelin stars for three consecutive years since 2016.

He maintains the habit of leading groups to Sichuan every year to find authentic ingredients and sauces, and has successively incorporated some authentic Sichuan and Cantonese dishes into the menu of "Sichuan Restaurant", increasing the richness of dishes.

In memory of Chen Jianyi: How did Mapo tofu fascinate the Japanese?

Communicate with Chinese as "Sichuanese"

Around the autumn of 2007, at the Sichuan Hotel, Chen Jianyi gave a cooking lecture for readers of Chinese Herald. Perhaps there are also readers who have participated who remember the joy of that day. Chen Jianyi taught everyone to stir raw eggs and cold rice together when making fried rice, so that the fried rice is wrapped in a well-proportioned and fine egg. On the same day, he was still making delicious mapo tofu for everyone to taste, but in fact, there are more advanced ones, and it is especially delicious to make with "white seeds".

In October 2013, Chen Jianyi presented his business philosophy to more than ten Chinese in Japan at the Akasaka Sichuan Hotel in Tokyo. He said: "People who cook are happy, and those who eat vegetables will be happy..." The Chinese who attended the lecture were all admiring, and several of them were engaged in catering and related industries. Chen Jianyi has a cheerful personality and speaks funny. Chen Jianyi, always dressed in white overalls and a chef's hat, told everyone about his understanding of the "spirit of service", saying that because I wanted to see the joyful and satisfied smiles of the guests after tasting my craft, it would be my happiest moment.

Chen Jianyi's hearty smile and funny words left a deep impression on the reporter. In 2005, Chen Jianyi, a keen golfer, was friends with Chen Jianjun, who was born of Sanming Properties, and in 2005, Chen entrusted his son Chen Jiantaro to Chen Jianjun to take his son to Sichuan for an apprenticeship, because "only when the apprentice comes back there can you make authentic Sichuan flavor."

Chen Jiantaro has long inherited his father's business, so that Sichuan cuisine continues to be popular in Japan.

In memory of Chen Jianyi: How did Mapo tofu fascinate the Japanese?

Chen Jiantaro (left) continues the Mapo Tofu legend

Japanese netizens and media mourned Chen Jianyi

After the news of Chen Jianyi's death came out, Japanese netizens wrote their condolences on the Internet:

"If it weren't for this person and his father, we might not know what mapo tofu is, they laid the foundation for Japanese Chinese cuisine!"

"I can't see his warm smile anymore. It's too young, it's a pity. The achievements that contributed to the prosperity of Sichuan cuisine cannot be shaken. May he rest in peace. ”

"Watching his smile on TV teach Chinese cuisine that can be cooked by the family, thank you for teaching us so much. Recently, I noticed that Chen Jiantaro often appeared on TV and magazines, and I still wondered if his father was okay, but I really didn't expect bad news. What a shame. ”

"When it comes to the iron man of Chinese cuisine, I only think of him. Please rest in peace. ”

"I like to eat his mapo tofu the most, I will go to his son's shop to continue eating, get more peppercorns..."

Japan's mainstream media also reported the news of Chen Jianyi's death and expressed condolences.

JAPAN NHK WORLD JAPAN REPORTED ON MARCH 15: SICHUAN CUISINE IS SPICY AND SPICY AND DIFFICULT FOR JAPANESE PEOPLE TO ACCEPT. To this end, Chen Jianyi tried many times and painstakingly studied the way to add spices, and finally created a unique dish that meets the taste of Japanese people and is slightly different from the taste of authentic Sichuan cuisine. Chen Jianyi is especially good at the production of mapo tofu and is known as "the first person in Japanese mapo tofu". He was not only selected as a "Contemporary Craftsman Master" by the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare, but also awarded the "Yellow Ribbon Medal" by the Japanese government.

Japan's Kyodo News Agency reported on March 14: "Chen Jianyi (real name Dong Jianyi), a leading figure in Japan's Chinese food industry and chairman of Sichuan Hotel Group, died at 12:07 noon on the 11th in a hospital in Tokyo due to interstitial pneumonia at the age of 67." Chen Jianyi was born in Tokyo and cooked mapo tofu to suit Japanese tastes, and was the eldest son of Chen Jianmin (deceased), known as the "Sichuan Cuisine Chef God". ”

He has been active as a Tetsujin in Chinese food cooking on Fuji TV's program "Cooking Ironman", and has also appeared in NHK's "Today's Cuisine" and other programs. In 2013, he received the Yellow Ribbon Medal. He also served as president of the Japan Chinese Cuisine Association. ”

TBS's "THE TIME" (Monday to Friday, 5:20 a.m.) reported the news of Chen Jianyi's death on the 15th.

The program aired VTR where the station's announcer Shinichiro Yasumi interviewed Chen Jianyi in 1999. In the studio, in response to Chen Jianyi's death, Shinichiro Yasumi said, "I talked to him many times at work" and said: "He was very energetic, cheerful, and always smiling. ”

"He loves golf," he said. I heard that he played golf 25 days a month. I often hear him say that he plays 200 to 230 rounds a year (18 holes a round). Go to fight in the morning, go to work after playing the first half, and go to play again in the afternoon. I was really impressed by his smile. However, many of his disciples are sticking to the original taste of his cooking, and the taste of Mapo tofu and Sichuan cuisine promoted by Mr. Chen Jianmin in Japan will be inherited by their disciples in the future." I really appreciate Mr. Chen Jianyi, he really gave me a lot of care. Saying that, he lowered his head and expressed his deep condolences to Chen Jianyi.

Chinese Herald remembers Mr. Chen Jianyi with its readers.

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