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Kiyosumi Tour: Matsuo Basho "Oku-no-Hodo" Trail (1)丨The deepest water

author:Southern Weekly
Kiyosumi Tour: Matsuo Basho "Oku-no-Hodo" Trail (1)丨The deepest water

Cheongju Bridge and Sky Tree. (IC photo/image)

In 1689 (Genroku 2), Matsuo Basho and his disciple Kawai Zenra set out from Edo (Tokyo) and traveled 2,400 kilometers from Mutsu and Hokuriku to Ogaki. Basho's travel notes are a collection of the book "Oku-no-Hodo". Zeng Liang is the author of the book "Oku's Hosodo Accompanying Diary".

Mutsu Province, one of the ancient prefectures of Japan, also known as Oshu, its territory roughly included the prefectures of Fukushima, Miyagi, Iwate, Aomori, and Akita in present-day northeastern Japan. The Hokuriku region is the coastal area of the Sea of Japan in the central part of the country, including the four prefectures of Niigata, Toyama, Ishikawa and Fukui. Ogaki is located in the current Gifu Prefecture.

From the end of October to the beginning of November 2019, my girlfriends Tan Weidong and Zhu Yanning and I walked along Matsuo Basho's Okuno-Hoshimichi no Mutsu. Of course, the so-called along is just to pick a few points along the railway line, and then turn around and take a look, that is, independent tourists, and bananas wade past foot by foot, which is completely incomparable.

The journey begins. On October 23, he took off from Chengdu Shuangliu Airport at 9 a.m. and arrived at Tokyo Narita Airport at 3 p.m. On the Keisei Electric Railway, Narita Airport to Nippori, turn to Ueno and get off at Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station. The booked hotel is nearby, walking distance. I later checked the information and saw that this hotel booked by Yanning has a large terrace on the second floor, which is the best place to see the Qingzhou Bridge. Kiyosu Bridge on the Sumida River, a blue steel suspension bridge modeled after the Isère Suspension Bridge in Cologne, Germany, is an important cultural treasure of Japan and a filming location for various Japanese dramas. We enjoyed the night and morning view of Cheongju Bridge on the second floor terrace of this hotel.

Clear white river, this place name is refreshing. It was indeed a rather clear trip, and the word White River also made people feel very ancient, and I immediately thought of the Emperor of White River.

In Japanese history, the history of Fujiwara Akiko's love is quite legendary, and Watanabe Junichi wrote it into the novel "Red Lotus in the Sky". Although both are Nakagu, whose names are pronounced the same (in terms of Chinese), and both have the surname Fujiwara, the one behind him is Nakako of the 66th Emperor Ichijo, born and died between 988 and 1074. The protagonist of the Red Lotus story, Akiko Fujiwara, was born and died from 1101 to 1145, the 74th emperor of Toba's Nakagu. In the story "Red Lotus in the Sky", Akiko gave birth to seven children, the first two were born to the 72nd emperor Emperor Shirakawa (who later abdicated and became a monk, so he was called Emperor Shirakawa), and the last five were born to Emperor Toba, the grandson of Emperor Shirakawa. The history of court love has always been turbulent, but Zhangzi's story is particularly shocking and upset, and it is indeed a favorite theme of novelists. The ethical chaos, the first half of the peak woman who is extremely pampered, and the second half of the second half of being ostracized and snubbed by all parties in the court after losing her asylum make this story a big gap. Junichi Watanabe's state of writing this story is quite passionate, and the original intention of paying tribute to "The Tale of Genji" is also clear, but in terms of the texture of the text, it is indeed far from it.

The area of Qingcheng Shirakawa belongs to the old neighborhood of Fukagawa and has a lot of connection with Basho. This is also the starting point of the Okuno-Hodo of Basho.

In the preface to the Oku-no-Hodo, Basho says that although he had only returned from a cloud trip in the autumn of last year (1688), after a few months of rest, in the spring of this year (1689), "When spring began in the following year, I looked at the colorful sky and suddenly had the urge to cross the Shirakawa Pass." "The Shirakawa Pass mentioned here is in the present-day Shirakawa City of Fukushima Prefecture, which was a checkpoint for defending against the invasion of the Ezo tribe in ancient Japan, and it was called Shirakawa Pass. Ezo is the ancient name of the Ainu people, an indigenous ethnic group in northern Japan who live mainly in Hokkaido.

Fukagawa is the Matsuo plantain, and there are many remaining plantain here, all within walking distance.

Not far from Kiyosumi Shirakawa Station, there is the "Basho's Promenade", and at the entrance is the ruins of the Caijian, where there is a statue of a plantain, with a cane in the right hand and a bucket in the left hand, and you are perched on the steps of the window eaves of the Caijian. The temple is the villa of Miura Sugiyama, a disciple of Basho, and is considered the starting point of the Basho Okuno-Hodo.

In the opening chapter of "Oku-no-Hodo", Basho clearly explains the circulation process of Sugiyama's residence and Basho's own residence. After returning to Edo in the autumn, he returned to the "Basho-an" that Sugiyama had arranged for himself, "... Brush off the silk dust webs in the house, rest for a while, and soon reach the end of the year..."In the spring of the second year, after plantain had a strong idea of traveling north, "... Those who are anxious will not be able to live in peace for a moment. So I started to prepare: sew up the holes in my pants, put a new tie on the bucket, and made moxa at the Zusanli acupuncture point on the leg... At this time, the beautiful moon of Matsushima has already risen in my heart, where can I take care of so much? I hurriedly transferred the premises and temporarily moved into the villa of my disciple Sugiyama. ”

There are many haiki names for basho, and the use of "basho" and fixed is related to the settlement of Bashoan. He himself explained, "... Huai Su walked the banana leaf, and Zhang Hengqu saw that the new leaf was determined to study diligently. Neither of them is taken, but its shade is leisurely and comfortable, and it loves its easy to break. ”

在《奥之细道》的序言起首,芭蕉叹道,"The month and day are the hundred generations of passengers, and the year is also a traveler". 这段话是芭蕉翻译引用的李白名句「夫天地者万物之reverse 旅,光阴者百代之过客"。

Basho is a professional traveler, Okuyuki Hodo, he is 46 years old, just in the prime of life. This trip, in the opening writing, he said, "If you can come back alive, you will be lucky." "The departure date of Basho is "March 27th". This is the lunar calendar. The solar calendar is May 16. At this time, it was already early summer, and the poets he admired, Li Bai and Du Fu in China, and Xixing, Zongzhi, etc. in Japan, all died on the way, but he may not have imagined that five years later he would die in a hostel in Osaka, leaving a dying sentence: "Sick on the journey, haunted by dreams in the wasteland." ”

In late autumn in Tokyo, it was already dark after 5 p.m., and we walked along the river at night. The riverside path around Caijinan is called the "Basho's Promenade", and the greenery along the river is surrounded by many plantain haiku signs. This river is a small tributary of the Sumida River called the Konagi River. Go slowly, look slowly, those sentences that have been repeatedly read in the book, in the street lights arranged in the middle of the green plants, green and green, if you associate this feeling with the feeling of large areas of green covering banana leaves, it is very pleasant.

The next morning, I went to visit the other plantain remains in Fukagawa River.

The Basho-an Historic Site Observatory Garden is attached to the Basho Memorial Hall. Climbing up the stairs, the garden is small and delicate. The view is wide, and the Sumida River and Kiyosu Bridge are completely in the eye. The garden features a seated statue of a plantain, a wide robe with large sleeves, looking straight ahead, and hands wrapped around the sleeves. It is said that this was once the former residence of Basho in Fukagawa and the original site has disappeared.

In the garden, several large bushes of bearded branches are blooming. Bearded branches, aka Hagi flowers.

In "Pillow Grass", there are two places where the beard branch is written, one is that "the beard branch is very thick in color, and the branches are also full of flowers, trembling." Once the flower is stained with morning dew, it unfolds tenderly and leans over as if lying down. Wonderful! "Again, it is like this," when the rising sun rose slightly, the bearded branches seemed to be weighed too hard by the rain, but when the morning dew disappeared, the branches began to sway; It was clear that no one reached out to touch it, but it suddenly jumped up, which was very interesting. ”

Qing Shao Nayan found it very interesting to have the beard branches in the morning dew. In the Basho Ruins Observatory Garden, I also met several large bushes of bearded branches in the morning, but the sky was not early, the morning dew had faded, the trembling and majestic appearance of the bearded branches in the breeze, and the moist breath remained, the small red flowers on the branches looked particularly delicate in the shaking, the rushing momentum of the Sumida River, and the condensed posture of the bronze statue of Basho were all soothed quite gently by these delicate flowers and branches.

In the Oku-no-Hodo, Basho mentions bearded branches in several places.

In the "Twenty Miyagino" article, "... Miyagino's bearded branches grow very luxuriantly, and the scenery must be beautiful after autumn. And Tamata, Yokono, and Jiaooka are the seasons when the flowers of the horse drunken wood are in full bloom. Then we walked into a dense pine forest that even sunlight could not penetrate into. It is said that the name of the place here is 'Kinoshita'. Presumably, in ancient times, the dew was also so thick, which is why there was a waka chanting 'Supporting the Rain for the King'. ”

In the story "Sanjuku Ichijin", Basho and Zengara meet two prostitutes who are going to visit Ise Jingu Shrine at an inn, and through the thin wall of the board, they hear the conversation between them and get a general understanding of their tragic and unspeakable life. Early the next morning, the two prostitutes asked to go with Basho and Zeng Liang, dressed as monks, to avoid the danger, but Basho and Basho stopped all the way, which did not fit with their itinerary and could only politely refuse. Unbearable, Basho sang, "The monks and prostitutes stay in the family, and the wind and dust go to the end of the world, and the bright moon shines on Hagi flowers." ”

In "Forty-Two Parting", Zeng Liang, who accompanied his teacher all the way, had to go to Ise's relative's house to recuperate because his abdominal disease was not healed. Before leaving, Zeng Liang composed a song, "The road ahead is long, and there is no complaint in Hagiwara, and the tourists wish for it." "This journey has been a matter of great difficulty, even if it is reasonable to lie down in the field where the bearded branches are blooming, but it is too unwilling to leave the teacher due to illness. Basho sang back, "Since then, I have lost my company, the autumn dew is soaked like my tears, and the words on the kasakami subside." After that, in the "Forty-two Tenshangji Temple", Basho stayed at Senshoji Temple in Kaga, and the night before, Zeng Liang, who was walking in front, also stayed here and left a haiku missing his teacher, and Basho had the famous phrase "One night apart, like a thousand miles." "Time and space completely coincide, full of pathos and airtight. Fortunately, Tseng recovered and came from Ise to reunite with Basho in Ogaki, Gifu, and "Oku-no-Hodo" ended in this warm result.

Basho Inari Shrine (Basho-an Former Site) is located next to the Basho-an Historic Site Observatory Garden. The shrine was built in 1917.

This small roadside shrine is similar in size to many small shrines in Tokyo, with two stone pillars as the door, and a small torii gate inside, which is no more than ten meters deep, and it only takes a few minutes to turn around. However, the offerings offered by the faithful make this small shrine very eye-catching, and it is all red when viewed from far and near. It is an offering similar to an advertising roll-up, with a red background cloth and a large white character "Basho Inari Daimyojin" printed vertically on the right, and a white patch on the left with the name of the worshipper. There were many worshippers, and the entrance was covered with red offerings, covering the inscription "Basho Inari Shrine Bashoan Historical Site" on the lintel. I'm a fan of Matsuo Basho. I was suddenly caught up in a choice that didn't exist: if there was a blank offering at the door, would I buy it with my name on it? I have always been embarrassed to follow the expression of collective publicity, especially Basho, who has been deeply rooted in his heart for many years, how can he express it like this?! It's good that there is no choice, because there is no place to sell the offerings.

The main point of the remains of Basho in Fukagawa is the Basho Memorial Hall.

Unsurprisingly, there are indeed several plantains at the entrance of the plantain memorial. The plantain in autumn is a little wilted and not very spiritual.

The memorial hall is a small building in a small modern style, wandering up and down, and a cursory glance does not reveal much of it. This is the case with almost all literary museums, and it is difficult for them to have a special visual effect like art galleries and museums. My experience from visiting literature museums in many places is that after walking around, you have to go to the store in the museum to buy relevant materials, and only after reading afterwards can you see the inside of the collection.

I bought two albums at the Basho Memorial Museum. One is called "The Thirty-Six Song Immortals of the Guzhe Hai Family - Portrait of the Haijin in Recent Times", and the other is called "The Portrait of Basho". Both of these pamphlets were compiled by the Basho Memorial Museum based on the collections, and the cover is quite plain, and the title is simply printed on the pure background, but if you open it and read it carefully, it is a delicate and wonderful one.

In the preface to the booklet, it is stated that "Portraits of Basho" contains twenty-four portraits of Basho painted by famous and unknown painters in recent and modern times. I browsed it on the spot, and then carefully looked through the album, maybe the collection threshold is strict, the so-called famous or unknown works, in fact, are quite exquisite. Xu is out of reverence for Haisheng, and the plantains in this album are mostly seated statues of Duan Su. Among them, of course, the "Basho Sitting Portrait" with Xie Wucun is the most conspicuous.

As one of the three masters of the Hai family, Yo Xie Wucun is also a famous painter. During his lifetime, his main source of livelihood was painting. This portrait of Basho was painted in the eighth year of Ernst Wing (1779), when Wucun was 64 years old. In the picture, Basho is wearing a wide robe outside, a white shirt inside, a white cloth hat on his head, and a square bag leaning on his left elbow, his face is haggard, his beard is pulled, it seems that he has not cleaned up for a long time, but he is smiling and has a calm expression. Basho was only 51 years old when he died, and the painting of Basho resembles a septuagenarian man. The painting is a long axis, the seated statue of Basho is located at the bottom of the picture, and the space above is full of casual feelings about Basho, which is very sloppy, and for me, the Japanese reading foundation is very shallow, and it is even more difficult to read.

The three members of the Hai family, Matsuo Basho Takato, Kobayashi Ichicha Deep, and Xie Wu Village Kuangda. This is my personal simple distillation, not enough evidence.

Japanese haiku is a typical art form that deliberately breaks the connection between cause and effect. Regarding this, Roland Barthes analyzed that people accustomed to analysis always want to spy out a certain meaning between words, in other words, to obtain meaning by breaking and entering, but these methods are a misunderstanding for haiku, such a way of reading will put the language in an empty state; The right thing to do is to use the Zen mind seal (i.e., heart-to-heart, an important part of Zen meditation in Buddhism, to take the mind out of the realm of reason with a short and illogical question), meditate on the absurd, shake it off like a tooth. Regarding haiku, Roland Barthes has a very interesting and beautiful passage: "Haiku says that you are licensed, it can be trivial, short, ordinary, you have the right to introduce what you see and feel into a delicate world of words, and you will be interested in it; You yourself (or from your own point of view) have the right to build your own fame; Your sentence, whatever it may be, will illustrate an allegory, will release a symbol, and you will become profound: to enrich your work with the smallest possible cost. ”

Let's read a few words about plantain and wucun.

Matsuo Basho:

"I'm tired of sleeping, and suddenly I see vine flowers"

"Draw water, the sound of cold monk soles"

"Pick up a broom and sweep snow, forget about snow sweeping"

With Xiewu Village:

"A piece of cauliflower yellow, a crescent moon in the east, a sunset in the west"

"The bright moon has set in the west, and there are still four or five people dancing"

……

Abrupt, stunned, elegant, and long aftertaste. We'll read a lot along the way.

Clean up the dust

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