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Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

Why did Alexander McQueen leave his own glorious mark on the glorious history of fashion? From Alexander McQueen himself to Sarah Burton today, they have never stopped pursuing and discovering beauty.

The familiar "McQueen aesthetic"

Return to Paris

Alexander McQueen's Fall/Winter 2023 collection opens magnificently at Les Invalides in Paris. This season's collection focuses on exploring the anatomy of the human body, the deconstruction of clothing, and floral forms. With the help of exquisite craftsmanship and fabrics, it breaks the traditional gender boundaries and relentlessly searches for beauty and power between flows.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

The collection focuses on cuts, proportions and silhouettes. The essence of fashion is derived from the structure of the human body, which is inspired by fine tailoring. It's great to see that this season, under the leadership of creative director Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen's Fall/Winter 2023 collection brings classic tailoring back to the runway.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

Including the exaggerated shoulder line of coats such as trench coats and suits, the silhouette of the coat that is close to the inverted triangle, the waist cut of the corset, the bevel of the hem and the expansion and cinning of the fishtail skirt...

These are the signature "McQueen-esque" cuts, each ready-to-wear piece has a typical and strong brand character, full of dramatic tension, and still the nostalgic and familiar Alexander McQueen.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

and a collection of tailored, slim dresses, decorated with different decorative details and delicate deconstructions, between black, red, white and other solid color fabrics, perfectly outline the wearer's exquisite body curves, thus defining Alexander McQueen's unique fashion aesthetic.

Perhaps, female celebrities have long begun to imagine that after wearing these gorgeous dresses wrapped in tube bead embroidery and swaying tassels, walking on the red carpet to "kill everywhere", leaving a bright starlight sparkling appearance.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

In the inheritance, the classics are also subverted: inside and out, up and down, presenting simple and smooth forms, strict and precise, or bold and interesting. Alexander McQueen's fashion is reinvented in a rich way of deconstruction: cut, cut, twisted, accentuating the shoulder silhouette and narrowing the waist.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

Sarah Burton uses an understated, restrained approach to create the dynamics of this season's fashion with waves, folds and other elements.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

In addition to the costume itself is eye-catching, the "National Model Heavenly Group" lineup on the Alexander McQueen show this season is equally impressive. Zhang Lina, He Cong, Ouyang Ying, Shao Minghao, Yang Ling, Liu Wen and many other excellent Chinese models participated in the catwalk.

Among them, Liu Wen wore an eggplant-colored polyester grosgrain long dress with exaggerated neckline details and a fluffy skirt. This is the third time that Liu Wen, who has fully returned to the runway of Fashion Week this season, has served as a closing model, and her "record" is proud!

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

Complex aesthetics, no ending

In terms of details, as the main motif of the collection, orchids are presented in their rare cultivated forms in this season's works, and Sarah Burton has given orchids a different art form with bold breakthroughs and imagination.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

It is one of the most common flowers besides daisies. It blooms in the air, grows wantonly on the neck and fingertips of the model, and takes root freely. It's beautiful and adaptable. Its posture is both like a hunter and like a prey. In the language of flowers, it is a symbol of love.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

The all-in-one shoes and pants are another big surprise on the runway this season. It is made of black wool, white broken striped black wool, black leather, indigo denim and tulle embroidered with draped orchids.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

The trousers blend with boots to lengthen the leg line and create a silhouette that opposes the label's classic ultra-low rise trousers. The idea of "legs from the neck down" was put to life by Alexander McQueen.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

Black ribbed-knit Slash sock boots, white leather Slash heels and sandals are embroidered with disassembled orchid tube beads or black and red heels.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

In terms of jewelry, the combination of silver and gold metal disassembled and stacked floral earrings is unforgettable. Coupled with a large number of embellishments such as silver metal bracelets, it interprets Alexander McQueen's avant-garde aesthetic.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

At the same time, silver and gold metal orchids and orchid profile rings, earrings and necklaces shine brightly, adding a strong artistic touch to this season's runway looks between light and shadow.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

In addition, McQueen's handbags have also become a sight to be ignored on the catwalk. The Seal handbag, Seal Box handbag, The Peak handbag, The Jewelled Hobo ring bag, Jewelled Hobo mini ring bag, The Reverse clutch, etc., all add a lot of points to the big show look.

Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid
Alexander McQueen, the "ambitious" heart under the orchid

When night falls in Paris, Alexander McQueen's avant-garde romanticism is in full bloom.

Source: Official courtesy of Alexander McQueen

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