This article is transferred from [Phoenix Network]
As an important project to discover and support China's outstanding emerging designers, the 12th 10+3 SHOWROOM Young Designer Base Program has received widespread attention and attracted a large number of young designers to sign up! After nearly three months of brand registration, screening and selection, all the shortlisted designer brand lists have been officially announced!
The shortlisted designer brands of the 12th 10+3 SHOWROOM Young Designer Base Program are:
Fashion brands
MOLE'NERATION ZHAO JIARONG & YAN SIHUI
OUTDOGER DOG WALKER ZHANG ZUOHUI
KIMUSSO Kim Musheng Long Jing
Freja Fria U Danni
Lacrimatory Tearbottle Wang Yiqin
MUENGYAN YANG YANG MENGYING
PLAYTOP Liang Jie
MoeHo He Mengmeng
SHUXUAN G.· Guo Shuxuan
KINGWEN HUANG QINGWEN
Accessory brand
SUNSHENGNAN SUN SHENGNAN
From5 Fang Wu Wang Tao & Liu Man
LAST LAZY NEW LAZY CARYOPHYLLIN
Lineup of judges
This year's jury has a strong lineup, including heavyweights in the fashion industry at home and abroad, covering academic, business, media, visual and other fields, and selects cutting-edge designers representing China's fashion design standards with high standards.
The judges unanimously agreed that the participating brands represent a new height of creative innovation and process improvement of Chinese independent designer brands, and have fully considered brand culture, artistry, commerciality, culture, contemporaneity, sustainability, etc., reflecting the designer's sense of social responsibility from multiple angles.
Note: Due to the shortlist sorted according to the scores of 12 judges, some judges reviewed brands that were not shortlisted
(sorted by judges' initials)
Bian Xiangyang
Director of the Textile and Costume Museum of Donghua University
Professor and doctoral supervisor of Donghua University
CFW: What is your overall impression of the participating designers? What potential designer brands have you identified?
Bian Xiangyang: From the look and feel of the works, we can see the improvement of the overall design creativity level of young designers, the diversification of design themes and the diversification of design styles. The works of the independent designer brands participating in this evaluation are distinctive and expressive in design form. Surprisingly, the design intention of many works combines Chinese aesthetics, creating many trendy products with attitude, life atmosphere, original personality and Chinese style creativity, which is refreshing.
The impressive brand OUTDOGER depicts current fashion life and is a collection of works with warmth and attitude. At the same time, it is also a recognizable brand, with a unique design angle, and the future market development prospects are remarkable. Accessories brand From5 Fangwu in the originality, fashion performance is also particularly prominent, in its works can not only see the integration of technology and art, but also can see many cross-border design highlights and elements, the brand for the combination of Eastern and Western culture in jewelry design has unique insights and inspiration, and has a certain degree of maturity, the future design development and space is huge.
Gu Yeli
Founder of Ontimeshow
Gu Yeli: Overall, the overall level of the participating brands is good, and the designers have played their own characteristics in both craftsmanship and creativity, and are good at cultural expression through the medium of fashion or accessories. Among them, the accessories category is particularly outstanding.
Among the clothing brands, MOLE'NERATION is impressive, an independent designer brand that uses color and sculptural fashion to express emotions and culture, and the designer's use of color and pattern texture is full of youthful and flamboyant fun. The accessories brand From5 has great potential, and the two designers have backgrounds in architecture and graphic design respectively, whether in two-dimensional symbol refinement or three-dimensional product shaping, they have unique advantages and excellent expression. The theme inspiration of the fashion metaverse is not only a hot spot but also a future trend, allowing people to see the infinite possibilities of brand design in the virtual world. The bag brand SUNSHENGNAN naturally reflects the oriental aesthetic mood associated with the designer's own growth background in the selection of materials and craftsmanship details of handbags, allowing people to interpret more subtleties of Chinese culture.
Hong Huang
Media people
Hong Huang: For designers, they must have a deep understanding of China's local ethnic culture, historical traditions and nature, and have an international vision and contemporary design language to present works with contemporary spirit. The accessory brands in this evaluation have their own highlights, and the bag and footwear brands are particularly innovative.
Particularly important is that I think there is an increase in brand awareness among all designers. It shows that the original designer brand in China will become stronger and stronger, and it is gratifying that designers have strong creativity and are willing to put energy into design. Accessory brands have a variety of design styles, and while pursuing hot spots, they need to have a long-term brand concept in order to develop for a long time under the fast-paced wave of fashion.
Hyun Jung
Professor, Department of Fashion Design & Marketing, Yeungnan University of Technology, South Korea
Hyun Jung: The most important thing is that I feel the enthusiasm of designers from different academic and professional backgrounds to expand the brand dimension not only in the field of traditional clothing, but also in the field of outdoor, functional clothing, jewelry accessories, shoes, bags and other overall fashion fields. You can see these brand designers thinking between artistry and commerciality, and exploring between brand culture and fashion trends. Whether it is minimalist or complex, it can accurately grasp trends, reflect popular culture, and at the same time experiment with market, such as considering animal companions and technical functional wear. In addition, their thinking about sustainability is reflected in the design.
I noticed that the concepts and designs of both brands are very different. THE TWO BRANDS, MOLE'NERING AND MUENGYAN YANG, MAINTAINED A CONSISTENT TONE AND STYLE OVER THE COURSE OF THE TWO SEASONS, CLEARLY CONVEYING THE BRAND'S IDENTITY THROUGHOUT THE DESIGN. MOLE'NERATION EXCELS AT USING A WIDE VARIETY OF PRINTS AND BOLD COLORS TO EXPRESS THE BRAND'S TENSION IN A UNIQUE WAY, FOCUSING ON THE EXPERIENCE OF VERSATILE FASHION ITEMS SUCH AS KNITWEAR, SHIRTS AND BLOUSES, WHICH IS A GOOD STRATEGY TO INCREASE MARKET ACCEPTANCE. MUENGYAN YANG COMPLETES THE TWO-SEASON COLLECTION WITH SUBTLE AND SOFT MONOCHROMATIC TONES, REVEALING THE DESIGNER'S INTERPRETATION OF FEMININITY. Romance is the eternal theme of women, and these designs should be loved by women with romantic fashion taste.
JEAN-FRANCOIS NICOLAÏ
Consultant of TRANOI, official exhibition of Paris Fashion Week and Head of Asian Market Development
JEAN-FRANCOIS NICOLAÏ: I WAS PLEASANTLY SURPRISED BY THE CREATIVITY OF YOUNG AND EMERGING CHINESE DESIGNERS. I think 70% of the entries really bring freshness to the market and can have a positive impact on the global fashion industry in the next 5 years.
I really like the entries for accessories, such as shoe brand LAST LAZY and bag brand Cibycier, which are well branded, and the products are culturally integrated, creative and unique. And the clothing brand OUTDOGER dog walker, it has brought a new type of outdoor clothing, which is now the market for different functional clothing trend. ONE OF MY FAVORITE BRANDS IS MOLE'NERING, WITH GREAT PRODUCT DESIGN LINES AND IMAGES. Its creativity and quality make me think that its pricing reference can be within the price range of the brand Ader Error and Y project, or higher.
Juliette McDonald
Professor at the Edinburgh School of Art, University of Edinburgh, International Dean of Shanghai International Fashion and Creative College, Donghua University
Juliette: These designs represent the high level of technology and unlimited creativity of Chinese independent designer brands, whether it is simple silhouettes or complex layers and textures, these exciting textile fabric designs are an important step in making good clothing design. Many designers are excellent at color matching, bold and vibrant. The same accessories also make excellent use of creativity, a wide range of aesthetic theories, and enrich the diversity of works.
The participating designers all demonstrated their strengths and independent thinking ability. Kimzy Design stands out as a brand that combines tradition and innovation in craftsmanship. The design of accessory brand XHENXHEN brings some fresh thinking, especially hairpins, the whole collection is very complete, and a high degree of completeness will make consumers have a memory of the brand.
Su Yonggang
Director and Professor of the Academic Affairs Office of Sichuan Academy of Fine Arts
Su Yonggang: The overall quality of the designer brands in this competition is high, they have quite a professional background, and many designers have foreign study experience and design practice experience, and their brands have accurate and clear brand positioning, brand culture and complete product series. What is more positive is that these designers show concern for people's society, sensitivity to social issues, and thinking about the future, reflecting the sense of responsibility of designers.
One of the clothing brands that impressed me deeply, MOLE'NERATION, has both the soul of traditional Chinese culture and the fashion trend, and their design concept reflects the focus on local Chinese culture, personal value and social topics. Sculptural silhouettes, rich textures and textures mixed with materials and vibrant colours express their individual style and fashion attitude. Another brand OUTDOGER dog walker, which defines a lifestyle around a group of people, starts from the life scene, considers the feelings and needs of the wearer, creates a free wearing experience, and designs not only a piece of clothing, but also a relationship and dress scheme between people and people, people and animals, people and nature. Among the accessories brands, I am more impressed by From5 Fangwu, which pays attention to the relationship between accessories and people, and people's emotional needs. Find inspiration from nature, such as the growth rings of trees, the evolution of life, the protection of the environment, the imagination of the future and the pursuit of love, presenting a series of wearable products, expressing the eternal theme of life, the power of growth, the awakening of life, and conveying the enthusiastic and positive side of the new generation of designers to consumers, reflecting the responsibility of designers and the power of art.
Sha Xiaoli
Executive publisher and editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar, General Manager of Harper's Bazaar
Sha Xiaoli: 10+3 SHOWROOM is a project to discover emerging designer talents in the context of modern fashion. The overall ability of the new generation of designers shown through this project is relatively excellent, and the sense of the times is relatively strong, which can reflect the design ability, aesthetic taste, fashion positioning and so on of current designers.
Freja, MOLE'NERATION, Heeno... All good. The design style is mature and beautiful! In the fashion industry, aesthetics is the first step, and aesthetic ability is multi-dimensional, a successful work, its external presentation must have pure tension and beauty, behind it must also be deep and breadth of the story. The beauty and fashion sense of these designer works are well grasped, and they have a certain uniqueness and recognition, and have the basis for market recognition.
Tao Yin
Professor, Deputy Dean of the School of Design and Art, China Academy of Art
Tao Yin: Many designers strive to balance the relationship between creativity and business, and the works or products that are popular are the core of the sustainable development of Chinese designer brands. Designers pay more and more attention to the expression of materials, and there is no lack of individual attention to detail, indicating that the understanding of the formal sense of design is getting deeper and deeper. At the same time, they pay attention to the needs of niche groups, the inclusiveness of culture and the expression of world view are connected with the world, for the understanding of "Oriental", the new generation of Chinese designers are not deliberately unflattering, naturally, and there is no need to hide it, I think this is the most relaxed and best state of design.
I personally like the brand "OUTDOGER Walker", I think their design starts from life, and the natural and relaxed state creates a unique brand DNA. The product items are very well matched, focusing on the customer group, but also malleable, young people who do not walk their dogs like to relax outdoor activities, or other age groups of customers will also like this brand, this brand that is both exclusive and widely applicable will impress market consumers.
Tony Bednall
Head of the Department of Design, Kingston University, UK
Tony: I have been paying attention to the new generation of Chinese designers, and I can feel that the design works are improving year by year, and the designers who participated in this evaluation have shown a high level in the use of materials and texture control. Through the exploration of design stories and product research and development, the value culture contained in the brand is reflected in detail, and the customer can be accurately grasped through brand positioning, which is not only the integrity of design, but also the multi-angle perfection of a clothing brand.
Looking at all the works from an international perspective, referring to the technology, including criteria such as manufacturing, production and design processes, and design relevance, many of the works performed well. The clear aesthetic design is not only reflected in the piece, but also in the collection, which is a complete brand self-description process. I'm concerned about whether brands can find their niche in a competitive global fashion landscape. FOR EXAMPLE, THE CLOTHING BRAND MOLE'NERATION, WHICH IS VIBRANT IN COLOR AND HAS A GLOBAL AND CREATIVE DESIGN. Accessories brand M.Wong is good at understanding and using materials, is good at innovation in luggage styling, and adds the brand's design logo to various products, clearly defining design features.
Wang Yongjin
Director of Science and Technology Division of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, former Dean of School of Fashion Arts and Engineering
Wang Yongjin: The design participating in the selection has three characteristics: first, it has a good vision and a good foundation of design ability; Secondly, product design from the perspective of market and business volume; Finally, it is the integration of design, combining art and technology into a new direction. On the whole, the strength level of all participating designers is similar, and they can reposition the design in combination with social development and lifestyle changes, and at the same time determine the similarity of the source city and the education process, and the work has a diversified presentation and lack of similarity, which shows that it is also necessary to explore more bold, more innovative and more popular + cultural + market combination of more hilarious designers, jump out of the common problems during brand creation, and have culture to do strong support and product function fashion combination, In order to show that subsequent growth is sustainable.
I personally feel that LIAERICO and Freja have a large space for development, the first brand is prominent in the construction of color system, the design is simple and not simple, the combination of fashion and sports and leisure is better, reflecting the sustainable power in design, with a strong market affinity; The second brand places great emphasis on the accurate application of materials and clothing categories, and at the same time forms an interactive relationship with the shape, which enhances the beauty of the silhouette in the design and the texture and wearing of the clothing itself, and if it can be combined with the implantation of new materials and cultural elements in the future, it is even more exciting!
Yin Chao
FAMOUS CHINESE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER AND FOUNDER OF SUPER STUDIO
Yin Chao: I was particularly pleasantly surprised by the designers who participated in this evaluation, abandoning the solidified thinking of deliberately expressing Chinese elements in the previous brand design. This time, the work is more about expressing their own design concepts, and designers can effectively express their fashion styles and opinions. Some of the finished designs are very mature, from the creative conception to the design elements, and the brand plan is becoming complete.
The brand that impressed me was very innovative in terms of design concept and design language. The design concept and elements of the brand MOLE'NERATION are relatively unified, and the brand tonality is very unique, whether it is the design style or the overall fashion industrialization presentation is relatively mature.
Full shortlist
According to the technical process, fashion creativity, brand culture, market recognition and other important dimension indicators, the judges strictly scored the registered brands, and finally determined 10 fashion designer brands and 3 accessory designer brands according to the scoring results! Most of the shortlisted designers come from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangdong, Zhejiang, Gansu, Shanxi and other provinces and cities, most of them have overseas study background, and have the working background of big brands and large institutions, and have also made many outstanding achievements in brand operation and channel sales, and the brand is generally in a period of rapid rise.
1, MOLE'NERATION ZHAO JIARONG & YAN SIHUI
Jiarong Zhao
CO-FOUNDER OF THE MOLE'NERATION BRAND
From 2014 to 2018, he studied at the Central Academy of Fine Arts, Department of Fashion Design, BA
From 2020 to 2022, he studied at the London School of Fashion, University of the Arts London, Menswear Design and Craftsmanship MA
In 2021, he founded the experimental designer brand MOLE'NERATION in London
Sihui Yan
Graduated from CAFA with a bachelor's degree in fashion design
After graduation, he deeply engaged in the field of independent designer brands
He has 5 years of working experience as a brand clothing designer
MOLE'NERATION WAS FOUNDED IN LONDON IN 2021 WITH THE FIRST PRE-COLLECTION RELEASED AT LONDON FASHION WEEK. The brand perceives the state of nature and growth, explores the power of group cultural belonging, and gives traditional colors a contemporary and fashionable atmosphere.
2, OUTDOGER DOG WALKER ZHANG ZUOHUI
Zhang Zuohui Zhang
Brand Founder/Designer
In his early years, he studied fashion design at Raffles College, Donghua University
Interned and worked for the sports brand of ZUCZUG
In 2020, he founded the clothing brand OUTDOGER Walker
OUTDOGER is positioned in the urban outdoor style, which is composed of the three words OUTDOOR-DOG-MAN, representing nature-pet-people, which is intended to show the daily state of different urban people, not only limited to walking dogs, but also urban life and urban temperature. Dog walkers hope to express themselves through dressing and find a pleasant balance in life in the daily life of the city.
3, KIMUSSO Jin Musheng Long Jing
Jing Long
Founder/Design Director of KIMUSSO
Graduated from Guangzhou Academy of Fine Arts
Avant-garde women's wear brand KIMUSSO, with local beliefs, fun, and rebellious art as the core of the brand, explores women's psychological changes and the need for space outside the body at a deeper level. KIMUSSO takes off multiple labels for women and interprets the current "her" culture with the visual interpretation of rebellious art.
4, Freja Fria Wu Danni
Danni Wu
Freja brand manager/designer
Master graduated from Istituto Marangoni in Milan
Worked for Stella Jean in Milan
After returning to China, he joined Tristate Group as the main designer
Women's ready-to-wear brand Freja was founded in 2022 by designer Danni Wu. At its core, Freja explores the true needs of women and the value of self-identity, reinventing the classics with exquisite tailoring and unexpected romance. Find a balance between a sophisticated woman and a clumsy child.
5, Lacrimatory tearbottle Wang Yiqin
Yiqin Wang
Founder and artistic director of Lacrimatory
Independent costume designer
Member of Fashion Art Committee of China Fashion Designers Association
Lacrimatory is a personal designer brand founded by Wang Yiqin, literally translated as "tear bottle", the brand originated from the designer's thinking on social phenomena and human nature, through the multiple essence, explore various propositions in the world, record and analyze them, transform them into clothing art, and attract people from the inside out.
6, MUENGYAN YANG YANG YANGYING
Mengying Yang
FOUNDER / DESIGNER OF MUENGYAN YANG BRAND
GRADUATED FROM KINGSTON UNIVERSITY
Fashion design major
SO FAR, HE HAS SERVED AS THE MAIN DESIGNER OF MUENGYAN YANG
MUENGYAN YANG takes color as the first visual language, clothing as the carrier of interpretation of the story, under the blessing of wide but not rigid lines, expresses hidden thoughts through details, and uses soft warm colors to further express emotions, which is both straightforward and resolute and restrained contradiction. Form a brand-specific design language.
7, PLAYTOP · Liang Jie
Jie Liang
Founder of the PLAYTOP brand
HE WORKED FOR BURBERRY AND CHANEL
The 2011 series was exhibited at Victoria & Albert at the Victoria and Albert Museum
PLAYTOP is an emerging knitting technology brand focusing on high-tech temperature control, fashion color wearing, gradient pressure control, auxiliary sports intimate products. With the concept of "condensing the power of science and technology from natural energy", the brand aims to combine the spiritual expression in Chinese culture with outdoor sports, showing the unique heroism of young people.
8, MoeHo He Mengmeng
Mengmeng He
Design Director of MoeHo
Graduated from Tsinghua University
He went to Central Saint Martins in London to study innovative design and clothing craftsmanship
His works have been selected for the Wallpaper Global Excellent Design Exhibition and the Redress Design Award Sustainable Design Award, and have won many domestic and foreign design awards
Founded in 2021, MoeHo advocates the concept of sustainable development, combines traditional Chinese culture, and uses a unique clothing art language to present the spirit of independent and free youth, convey youth, beauty and fearlessness. Through the design of structures, fabrics, colors and patterns, it breaks the limitations of thinking and reinterprets oriental aesthetics.
9、SHUXUAN G.· Guo Shuxuan
Shuxuan Guo
FOUNDER / DESIGNER OF SHUXUAN G
He graduated from the School of Art and Design, University of New South Wales, Australia with a bachelor's degree and a master's degree
He then went to France for further study at the Marangoni School of Fashion and Design
In 2018, he participated in the China International Swimwear Competition and won the silver award
SHUXUAN G. is good at combining modern minimalism and oriental romance and poetry, while adhering to the brand's unique resort style design intention, the brand adheres to the consistent retro femininity and natural casualness, integrating swimsuit elements into the design of ready-to-wear and dresses, hoping to convey a new life concept: "break the inherent boundaries, bloom beauty freely".
10, KINGWEN HUANG QINGWEN
Qingwen Huang
FOUNDER OF KINGWEN BRAND
Graduated from Central Saint Martins
He has worked for Cartier, Thom Browne, Simone Rocha and many other luxury brands
"KINGWEN Kiyomon" brand was on the official calendar of London Fashion Week at the beginning of its establishment. The brand originates from an alternative interpretation of romanticism, exploring the classical beauty of art with oriental poetry. Integrating the sense of ink flowers and birds in Chinese painting, through the study of female images in different ancient masterpieces and mythological stories, it continues to express female posture and feminine charm in a romantic context.
1, SUNSHENGNAN SUN SHENGNAN
Shengnan Sun
FOUNDER / DESIGNER OF THE SUNSHENGNAN BRAND
Graduated from Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology
During his time at school, he won the IFDC International Silver Award for Footwear Accessories
In 2017, he signed a contract designer for the Fur DPC project in Copenhagen, Denmark
2018-2019 Intangible Cultural Heritage Invited Designer
SUNSHENGNAN was founded in Beijing, the brand name is taken from the real name of designer Sun Shengnan, which is intended to express that "I" is the origin of "own" life, explore the infinite possibilities of the world from the origin, and find an effective carrier in line with Eastern aesthetics and oriental philosophy and culture - "Oriental, woody, the reason why all things are born." ”
2, From5 Fang Wu Wang Tao & Liu Man
Tao Wang
From5 Fangwu brand manager, architect
He has worked in a number of internationally renowned architectural firms such as MAD and Ole Sheren, and has extended the definition of jewelry products through diversified cross-border cooperation.
Man Liu
From5 Fangwu design manager, designer
In 2017, from graphic design to the field of jewelry, he has been exploring the balance between art and products in the creation of works, and bringing graphic elements into jewelry design.
In From5's design, nothing is set in stone. Therefore, it shows the flow and transformation between elements in a variety of materials: solid and fluid, static and motion, surface and core, calm and passionate... In this way, create a design language that does not limit the form of creation, so that it can continue to derive, evolve, and reconstruct.
3, LAST LAZY NEW LAZY STONE ZHULIN
Chanel Shi
FOUNDER / DESIGNER OF LAST LAZY BRAND
Master and bachelor's degree in industrial design from Zhejiang University
Master of Industrial Design from Pratt College of Art
He has worked as a shoe designer and design director for Marc Jacobs, Stuart Weitzman, Cole Haan and other brands
In 2021, he founded the brand LAST LAZY "New Lazy" in New York
LAST LAZY is a multi-designer fashion brand founded in 2021 in New York, USA. New laziness, a creative attitude to life, conveys the spiritual core of "Open the Mind" - "happy", opens up new ideas, will be sustainable and cool technology compatible, create people's life surprise! Let tide shoes, tide bags, and tide objects become "new lazy" generators.
Let's look forward together
These wonderful young designers
At China International Fashion Week 2023
Bring more great work
Look at China's new design power
Burst into infinite brilliance!
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