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introduction
The Li family of Joseon was a vassal state of the Ming Dynasty, and the Korean clothing of this period was naturally deeply influenced by the Ming Dynasty.
Therefore, many of the costumes of the Korean ethnic group are now very familiar to Chinese, but they seem to be slightly different.
In fact, the Korean Peninsula has been in the Muhua trend since the Three Kingdoms period a long time ago. It was only after the Ming Dynasty that the relationship between the Korean Peninsula and China became unprecedentedly close, and the Korean Peninsula also obtained a large number of clothing from China.
1. North Korea's "clothes and costumes have been renewed, and the flourishing of cultural relics of ritual music has been restored"
As we all know, the social hierarchy of the Joseon Dynasty was very distinct, and compared with the two classes of nobility, it was a big problem for the people in the untouchable class to even maintain their own daily lives.
But there is such a profession among the untouchables, although they do not have the origin of aristocratic ladies, but they can also wear gorgeous clothes, wear exquisite jewelry and ornaments, they are the "prostitutes" of the Joseon Dynasty.
At that time, the founding monarch of the Joseon Dynasty, Li Sunggui, the color of his clothes compared with the king of the Ming Dynasty at that time, Zhu Yuanzhang, differed only in the color.
According to the records of the Ming Dynasty, the emperor's clothing was generally wearing a crown with wings on his head, wearing a yellow pan-collared narrow-sleeved robe, and a golden coiled dragon embroidered on the chest and on each of their shoulders.
At that time, the prince and the prince's son, or the county king, they were only distinguished from the emperor by the color of their clothes. Their clothes are red in color.
It stands to reason that Li Sunggui's clothes should also be red, but at that time, there were people in the Joseon Dynasty who wore cyan clothes, so it is not surprising.
At that time, North Korea absorbed a lot of Chinese culture, in their own words: "The clothes and costumes have been renewed, and the cultural relics of ritual music have been restored." ”
As a vassal state of the Ming Dynasty, the rank of the king of Joseon was equivalent to that of the king of the Ming Dynasty at that time. At that time, most of the princesses of the Korean kingdom wore zhai robes, seven zhai crowns on their heads, and Xia draped them were also embroidered with zhai birds. This is the official uniform of the princess level of the Ming Dynasty at that time.
But if it is a princess, her Xia is covered with a phoenix.
Unlike the princesses in the palace who wore gorgeous clothes, although the prostitutes in the Korean kingdom at that time looked glamorous on the surface, the untouchable women born of prostitutes could not get rid of their lowly status.
As geisha of the ancient Korean Peninsula, prostitutes were mainly responsible for providing song or dance performances for the king and two classes of nobles.
And the dancers who performed the show dance for the king at that time, they were untouchables during the Joseon Dynasty at that time, and it is conceivable that most of these prostitutes should be from very humble origins.
Some prostitutes are born because their families are poor, and the elders of the family have no choice but to sell their daughters to become prostitutes for the sake of the family's livelihood, or some become prostitutes because their families are murdered, and there are young girls born untouchable who voluntarily become prostitutes.
Because the Li Dynasty at that time practiced the "law of obeying the mother", which meant that after prostitutes married, the daughters born to them would usually inherit their mother's occupation and eventually become prostitutes.
In addition, there is a very perverted rule in the prostitute industry, that is, "the subordinate is determined".
If her mother could no longer work because she was old or sick, her daughter had to take her mother's place, whether she wanted to or not, and she had to become a prostitute.
2. "Light song and dance like fairies, gentle lyricism like a dream"
As prostitutes, they not only have to be young and beautiful, but also need to be able to perform cabaret. As a prostitute's daughter
From an early age, he received various artistic training in the teaching workshop.
For example, they have to learn a variety of musical instruments, learn the dances of various ethnic groups, learn literature, female reds and so on. Therefore, many prostitutes actually had high artistic attainments, and some were famous poets or literary figures in North Korea at that time.
And they are often in contact with some bureaucratic capitalists, and there is no lack of vassal grace between them. Therefore, prostitutes who can sing and dance well and are proficient in poetry and song are naturally more sought after by the upper classes, and will be more likely to attract the eyes of bureaucratic capitalists.
For example, we are familiar with a famous prostitute during the Chungjong period of Joseon, Hwang Jin-yi. She was gifted with literature from an early age. In terms of appearance, she is also one of the best beauties in North Korea, and her talent in poetry and singing is also very outstanding.
But just because her mother was born untouchable, she ended up choosing to become a prostitute like her mother.
And after becoming a prostitute, Huang Zhenyi is not like other prostitutes, only focusing on dressing himself up to attract the attention of bureaucrats or rich boys.
Even if Huang Zhenyi was asked to perform talents for those princes and nobles at the banquet of the official mansion, she only freshened up a little, did not paint particularly strong makeup, and the clothes were actually the clothes she wore on weekdays, and she did not dress up fancy.
In his daily life, Huang Zhenyi just likes to go out with a Ru Wenyash. Compared with ordinary prostitutes whose lives were more miserable, the clothes she wore from a special background more reflected the daily clothing characteristics of the Korean aristocracy at that time.
And the miserable life of many prostitutes also reflects the sorrow within the Korean kingdom at that time. At that time, the king of the Li Dynasty himself used the title of prince of the Ming Dynasty administratively, and used prince in name, and in specific implementation, it was determined as a county king after the Yongle period.
At that time, the vassal state of Korea practiced small states serving large countries to the main suzerainty, the Ming Dynasty, in order to preserve its own strategy. North Korea was also happy to follow the Ming Dynasty to show their respect for the Ming Dynasty, the main sect.
It is worth mentioning that during the Wanli years of the Ming Dynasty, Japan at that time attempted to annex and occupy the Korean Peninsula. As a result, Japan invaded Korea twice, leaving Korea, which was not strong enough at the time, on the verge of extinction.
At this time, the Ming Dynasty sent troops to aid Korea, so that in the end Korea defeated Japan, so that the Joseon Dynasty could finally protect the whole country, otherwise the Joseon Dynasty would have ceased to exist at that time.
And we in China not only came to the aid of North Korea when it faced a territorial threat, until now the national costume culture on the Korean Peninsula also has a deep relationship with our Chinese Hanfu.
Third, "Korean traces, beauty creates legends" is closely related to Chinese culture
Looking at the traditional clothing of the Korean people, it developed its own characteristics after integrating the characteristics of mainland clothing in the Daming period. At that time, after accepting the recognition of the Ming Dynasty, Li Dynasty also accepted the administrative methods of the Ming Dynasty, and received special treatment from the Chinese civilization circle in all aspects of culture.
The Korean Peninsula is very thorough in the study of Chinese culture, Li's Korea was founded on Confucianism, and the study of Confucianism on the Korean Peninsula actually began as early as the Tang Dynasty.
After seeing the Tang Army, the Wang's Goryeo also very quickly accepted the Central Plains culture, and the upper classes of society gradually accepted the Confucian and Taoist culture of the Tang Dynasty.
At that time, the clothes of women on the Korean Peninsula were generally relatively plain, elegant and light.
Korean men's clothing is generally shorter in length and longer and fatter in pants. On the upper body of the clothes, the boys' clothes also have wider shoulders, plus Taoist robes or Korean robes.
Taoist robes were a common garment for scholars, doctors, and Confucians in ancient China. The back also became the dress of North Korean men when they went out, and the robe could be worn as an overcoat.
At that time, Korean robes were made of two materials, cotton and cloth. At that time, Korean women's clothing generally had short clothes and long skirts, and short clothes had long white cloth worn under the right shoulder, and tied into a bow shape under the right shoulder.
The long skirt mostly has a long pleated skirt, and the skirt also has a long skirt, a short skirt, an apron, and a tube skirt. There are many types of skirts and styles.
A short coat is a type of slanted collar, unbuttoned, knotted with straps, and is a garment that covers only the chest. At that time, the long skirt, he had fine folds around the waist, very loose and flowing, most of these clothes were sewn with silk, and the colors were also very bright.
North Korean clothing is also made using fabrics of various textures and colors according to the age and occasion of the wearer.
Before marriage, North Korean women wear bright red skirts and yellow blouses, and the sleeves are also decorated with colorful stripes. After getting married, they will choose to wear a red skirt and a green top for the overall match.
In Korean, older women can choose the clothes they want from many fabrics with bright colors and patterns. North Korean men, on the other hand, generally wear short plain blouses with bumpy shoulders, and wide pants underneath them.
When Korean men go out, they often tie a knot with a cloth belt and wear a robe. Children's clothing was mainly colorful at the time.
The seven-colored satin clothes are very playful and cute as if a rainbow is worn on the body. Therefore, many children also like to wear such colorful clothes to go out.
Like the development of clothing in many countries, the development of traditional clothing in North Korea also originated from the daily wear of working people and was limited by local products.
In the early days of North Korea, people mostly lived in remote mountain villages, and the raw materials of clothing were mainly based on the linen they planted and woven themselves, and the texture was relatively rough.
Although such clothes will feel cool when worn in summer, they are not very warm in winter.
With the continuous improvement of Korean weaving techniques later, linen weaving is getting better and better. Not only are the lines reduced, but the spots on the linen cloth are also fewer, which leads to more clothing styles and more complex patterns.
epilogue
At that time, the Korean people also preferred to wear plain or white clothes, so they were called "white-clothed people". The Korean Peninsula not only learned from China culturally, but also was deeply influenced by China in traditional clothing.
The Korean costumes that have been passed down to this day are not only inherited in South Korea and North Korea, but also a considerable number of Korean people in the mainland have inherited these costumes, bringing a touch of color to our country's traditional clothing.
bibliography
"North Korean Costumes"
"North Korean Costume Illustration 600 Words"
"Integration of Chinese Costume Culture (Korean Volume) (Jing)"
"Korean Costume Art"