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Breaking the shackles, the Spring 2023 Milan Week walks between copying and deconstruction

author:The Paper

"We can't be immersed in a crisis all the time. You have to have love, discover love, you have to have the magic of change. As the first black woman to win the Nobel Prize in Literature, Toni Morrison believes that this is also the true meaning of life. No matter how stagnant life is, we can always break the shackles with fashion creativity. That's the joy of life.

From September 20 to 26, Spring 2023 Milan Fashion Week presents a fresh and exuberant atmosphere of joy, conveying a free and positive fashion attitude.

Breaking the shackles, the Spring 2023 Milan Week walks between copying and deconstruction

Moschino Spring 2023 Womenswear

Moschino Spring 2023 Womenswear is Creative Director Jeremy Scott's response to pessimistic frustration motivated by the emotional factor floating in the air: we have to recognize everything that happens around us, but we also have to reserve space for happiness. This series is a reflection of optimism.

The box-shaped jacket, sporty dress and practical skirt highlight the design features of the artificial heart pattern, which is an imaginary reconstruction of the widely known Moschino pattern. In Moschino's usual quirky style, every piece in the Spring 2023 collection has some wink of mischievous action. It is actually a counteract to all the negative emotions in life, like a ray of sunlight breaking through the surface of a calm lake, although the water behind it is still shrouded in shadows.

Travel is still an important expression of current fashion. Even indoors, open-minded or spiritually free people can roam the streets of the world and wander through endless imaginations.

Breaking the shackles, the Spring 2023 Milan Week walks between copying and deconstruction

Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2023 collection

Emporio Armani continues this season's collection with a light texture and fluid lines. The colour scheme has evolved from urban neutral and classic black and white to soft lilac and green, with shimmering shimmers that illuminate maxi dresses and lightweight jumpsuits. The combination is like an end-of-trip encounter: take out what you pick up along the way from your suitcase and mix and match what you already have. Blazer meets sarong skirt, shirt lengthened into a coat; Everything is floating, and the feet are flat shoes for a leisurely walk.

Breaking the shackles, the Spring 2023 Milan Week walks between copying and deconstruction

BAL SS23

For some long-established brands, the new season will also kick off a journey of transformation (Ecdysis). Bally's SS23 collection was first designed by creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor and infused with a cultural perspective from his personal upbringing.

From Santa Monica, California, to Sankt Moritz in Switzerland, Ruigi takes people back in time to Bally's history as a leather goods workshop. The homage to the history of the sports and film world runs through the series, between the bold and the uninhibited, but also exudes a wild, noble, young side, and more with ironic nostalgia. Daywear and evening wear contrast subtly in the wardrobe, exuding the confidence of the traveler.

It's been 20 years since this season was last at the Bally Fashion Walk. "Whether in the fashion world or in our daily lives, beauty often collides and is closely intertwined with a sense of belonging and identity." Ruiji believes that we can understand the ideas and gestures related to beauty from a personal point of view, and resonate with them.

Breaking the shackles, the Spring 2023 Milan Week walks between copying and deconstruction

Gucci "Twinsburg Twins" this season

Gucci's Spring/Summer 2023 Twinsburg game presents a rift between identity and concept, allowing the same clothes to exude a completely different temperament on the same body. Gucci's theme for this season is "The Twinsburg Twins," with 68 pairs of twins showing up on the runway, looking exactly the same models, wearing the same costumes and following the same steps. Even the runway is mirrored. The twins meet from both ends of the show, take the hands of the opposite person, and walk to the center of the field, and the reality seems to coincide with parallel time and space.

The collection was inspired by Creative Director Alessandro Michele's late mother, twins. Michele said he was cared for by two twin mothers until he was 7 years old, "They lived in the same body, wore the same clothes, and sprayed the same perfume." They are like magical mirror images, one copying the other. This is the world I live in, the perfect double superposition. ”

Breaking the shackles, the Spring 2023 Milan Week walks between copying and deconstruction

Gucci Spring/Summer '23 collection

Double doppelgänger and self-identity have long been the subject of Alessandro Michele's obsession. Michele believes that even if there is another you in the world, dressed the same and the same shape, everyone is a different individual, with a different style, embracing different souls, "Even in this game of replication, fashion does not hinder the most authentic self-expression of each individual." ”

Breaking the shackles, the Spring 2023 Milan Week walks between copying and deconstruction

SPORTMAX Spring/Summer '23 collection

Gucci reflects the difference in similarities, while SPORTMAX's SS23 collection has been deconstructed and restructured to create contrasting looks. The 1950s' A-lines, narrow shoulders, low-rise and flared silhouettes, the futuristic space style of the '60s, and the countercultural silhouettes of the '90s made up of Techno electronic technology dance music and cyberpunk elements from Underground Dance Dance. The entire collection oscillates between Sugarpunk, Psycho-chic and Techno-couture styles. These styles are intertwined with each other and affirm each other.

Breaking the shackles, the Spring 2023 Milan Week walks between copying and deconstruction

BOTTEGA VENETA2023 Summer Collection

The narrative of the costumes and characters is explored by the makers and the wearers together, achieving a communication that blends movement and emotion. This process does not stop at what is seen with the naked eye, but feels with the heart. The cleverly tuned classic costumes in BOTTEGA VENETA2023 summer collection are practical yet fun, with models easily getting up and feeling dynamic, energetic, sensual and living.

Breaking the shackles, the Spring 2023 Milan Week walks between copying and deconstruction

Bottega Veneta runway space this season

"It's a space that pays tribute to diversity. It is a human-centered universe; Each of us is unique. Everyone is unique and original, and that's one of my design themes. "Matthieu Blaze, Creative Director of Bottega Veneta, gave the show space for the season to Gaetano Pesce, a humanitarian architect, designer and artist who, throughout his seven-decade-long career, has continued experimentation and innovation, refusing to replicate and mass-produce.

"Bottega Veneta was a great help to me in the successful completion of this project." Gaetano Pesce sees this as a politically important message – "It's not museums and galleries that are helping me deliver my voice this time: Who is defining today's culture?" Is it a museum, or a fashion brand? Culture is spiritual food, not consumer goods. If every day were the same, we would be like the walking dead. ”

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