Compile: Mintina
Photo courtesy of Karlis Bardelis/AFP
Just as Karlis Bardelis was nearly finishing his man-powered journey around the world, currents propelled his ship, causing him to drift north, culminating in Somalia, one of the most dangerous locations in the world. The Latvian explorer shares moments and where the expedition will go.
In 2016, from Namibia, Karlis Bardelis, then 30, went kayaking with a companion to Brazil. In 2018, he set off again from Brazil, riding a tandem bike, and traveling with his then-girlfriend to the Lima region of Peru. They traveled 5,400 kilometers in the 102nd.
Later that same year, he rowed alone, crossing 26,000 kilometers across the Pacific Ocean, arriving in Malaysia after 715 days – almost two years. He became the first explorer to reach Asia by rowing a ship from South America.
Bardellis, now 37, continued his journey from Malaysia in January. On 21 June, he traveled 4,800 kilometres from Malaysia to Somalia, becoming the first person to cross from Asia to Africa. The only problem was that he should have landed in Tanzania, not Somalia.
This led to tremendous stress, even for Bardellis, who always seemed to be very happy. He recounted the thrilling journey.
Difficult to control ocean currents
What happened? Why did you land in Somalia?
When I was in the Indian Ocean east of the island of Madagascar, the winds started blowing me to the northwest. I did a lot of research before I set off and looked at the historical wind map. At this time of year, the average wind speed in the region is 15 knots. But this year it will be 25 to 30 knots (1 saving is 1 knot/hour).
I understand that ocean currents flow from south to north, starting at a point 80 to 90 kilometers from the African coast. My plan was to go to Tanzania, or as close as possible to the area there. Before Somalia, I still had Kenya as a buffer zone. But due to the wind conditions, I was already in a location too far north when I encountered ocean currents.
Map courtesy of: https://boredofborders.com
Somalia is insecure. What happened next?
Everyone knows about the pirates of Somalia. But when I got to know, I saw that since 2018, there hasn't been any sea robbery here. Security companies protect ships passing through the area. But the information is slightly misleading, making me think it's safer than the phenomenon.
When you land in Somalia, the situation is very different. The risk increases twice, triples, because any traveler will be targeted. Any taxi driver will sell you to a terrorist organization that controls large areas of Somalia.
The risk is too great to land
In short, I am in a dangerous area because southern Somalia is under the control of the Arshabab organization. I contacted the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Security Service, and the Coast Guard at or 30 km from the coastline. So eventually a local boat came here to pick me up. I arrived at night in an area of 1.3 km with the coast and I had to use [flares to inform them].
During this time, I turned on the emergency radio beacon to notify the Coast Guard and surrounding vessels. The weather conditions were extremely bad, with winds of more than 25 knots and heavy waves. I stepped onto the ship, they took me to the coast, and then an army helicopter took me to the Magadishu military base.
Subsequently, they took me to a safe area where I stayed for ten days while preparing the documents I needed to leave Somalia legally. Eventually, on June 29, I left by plane.
Photo courtesy of boredofborders
Insomnia for four days
It sounds like it's stressful and terrifying.
Indeed it is. Hours before I stepped onto their vessel, I received a call from the Latvian Security Service. They instructed me on how to deal with this situation, which was crucial. I came to some local Somali boat at midnight and two Somalis took me somewhere.
The original idea was to land somewhere a few hours later with the help of a ship. But they changed their plans, and we dropped our anchors and waited at a location near the coast, because we didn't want to take the risk of coming to the land area in the wrong place.
These people can't communicate in English and I don't know what's going on. You can imagine my situation. All the uncertainty in such a situation is so tense and terrifying. After four days of insomnia, I was exhausted. It really didn't help me stabilize my emotions.
There will be no return to Somalia
This is the penultimate stage of your journey. You still need to connect Somalia and Namibia. How do you plan?
I'm not sure, but I know I'm definitely not going back to Somalia. I couldn't have gone there again. When you're traveling the globe, it's important to start at coordinates you've reached. I'll track it down and start again from another location.
Frankly, I think the next time I set off, I'll travel very quickly and won't leave any trace on the web. I may show up when I'm already in Tanzania. I left Somalia and people already knew I had been there, which may not be safe.
Anyone who knows a little bit about Somalia tells me, "You're lucky to be able to get out alive and safe." ”
If you go back, start again from another area, which means paddling the line again. How do you retrieve your own ship?
It's complicated. To be honest, I don't know. The last news I got was that the ship was still at the spot where I had left, under the supervision of the army. At the Mogadishu base, where the army commander told me they could transport the ships to a large port. At the moment, logistics matters are very cumbersome.
Photo courtesy of boredofborders
A home, not just a device
If you can't get it back, will you get another ship?
It's a really hard choice. When you turn on the emergency position indicator radio beacon, you have to accept that if rescue comes, you may need to leave your ship forever. It was an easy and emotional decision for me, and I spent three years on this ship. It's home for me, not just gear.
I hope to be able to find the ship because my plan is to eventually send the ship to the Maritime Museum in Latvia. There are not many ships in the world that have crossed the ocean like this.
Part of your trip must be challenging. Have you ever considered not being able to end your trip?
It's my life, and it's not something I do in my spare time. Of course, I wish I could have summer breaks so that I could spend time with my family, my mother, my sisters, my sisters' families.
But that's what I do. I go home and I share stories. Subsequently, I drifted alone at sea, and I enjoyed it. Obviously, I still have some lonely time spent on land. But adventure is my real life experience, making me feel like my life is happening.
The pleasure of short memories
Once back in Africa, will anyone join you, or will you still end the journey alone?
I get a lot of messages from people I know. Many people wrote, "If you come up on a bike ride, I can join you because I have two weeks off." "So maybe I'll spend some time on the road with some people." I do not know. I have some ideas.
Photo courtesy of boredofborders
Your trip is part of three long paddles. Which stage is the most difficult?
For me, it's hard to answer because I'm quite forgetful. Sometimes, I usually have a so positive attitude towards life that I even forget about struggling. I've always tried to remember the most wonderful moments.
The Pacific Ocean is stunning, with all those islands, but the coastal paddling of Indonesia does present technical challenges, as well as the complexity of ocean currents and tides, and the crowding caused by local fishermen.
As I crossed the Pacific, I almost bumped into a fishing boat, and my boat was attacked by sharks. Being at the equator, [I experienced] the first 360° tilt.
Do you prefer the boat rowing phase to cycling?
I did a short ride in Sri Lanka to get to the right point of the trip. I spend five days together, and I love the process because I get fresh fruit. On the one hand, I enjoy being alone on the ocean, but I can't choose between the two. For example, I am very much looking forward to seeing some of Africa's wildlife.
Photo courtesy of boredofborders
Regrets
It was an extremely long trip. If you could go back in time, would you be willing to try again?
Absolutely. But if you ask me at the end of my day, will I do it all over again? No, I don't think so. There are a lot of things to try in the world, a lot of places to visit. But I don't want to say that I feel remorse for any part, even Somalia. I didn't want to be there, but that's the way it is. The line, or the universe, or God brought me here.
Do you think you're going to keep going? Once you reach the finish line, will you start planning a new adventure where to go?
Here are some brand new ideas I'm looking forward to trying, and I'm still in good shape. I'm 37 years old, so I can move on with these trips. Maybe when I'm 60, I'll slow down. In fact, when I'm 60, I'm probably going to be even crazier. We all have such boundaries in our minds, but with each expedition, I remove a layer of limitation.
Source: Rebecca McPhee