Tonglu, located in a small county town on the banks of the Fuchun River, is not large, but it is the most beautiful county in China. Tonglu people are accustomed to relying on mountains to eat mountains, using local materials, and using the most common ingredients to cook the most ordinary farmhouse cuisine. As a native of Tonglu, I am accustomed to listening to the cries and sales of "oil boiling steamed buns" in the streets and alleys, salivating over the rice fruits that will be cooked on the wood stove, "drunk" missing the peasant taste of Tonglu, and shouting for my hometown, "Tonglu how to love you is not too much."
Farmhouse rice fruits
Tonglu's rice nuts are fruit-like in shape, made of japonica rice on the outside, and wrapped in home-cooked vegetables, tofu, and bacon. These ingredients are prepared by mothers early, including freshly picked vegetables in the vegetable field, tofu sold in the village workshop, and smoked bacon around the Spring Festival. Wrapped in delicate japonica rice noodles, the whole one permeated with the aroma of bacon, the tenderness of tofu, and the freshness of vegetables, let the children waiting next to the wood stove salivate.
The prepared rice nuts are refrigerated and stored, and the mothers will arrange the eating method of the rice nuts, re-steamed the most common, the fresh flavor is still the same, a bite down, vegetables, tofu, bacon steamed out of the light soup will break the "shell" out. Of course, rice nuts are often cooked with leftovers, which is very resistant to hunger and is very suitable for us to work in the countryside to make breakfast.
Tonglu's rice fruit can be called a "golden business card" of Tonglu, and it is also her ability. In Tonglu, rice fruit is often called "reunion fruit", in the past, it was generally only enjoyed on major festivals and occasions such as Qingming, Season, Spring Festival, and Birthday, and when the family was reunited. Because she originated from the rural area of Jiangnan in Tonglu, not every place in Tonglu can eat it. What makes Tonglu people proud is that Tonglu's farmhouse rice nuts became one of the 36 new Hangzhou famous snacks added in 2014, and even more cattle is also in the permanent collection of the China Hangzhou Cuisine Museum, my little friend and I were stunned at that time.
Iwahashi stinky tofu & boiling steamed buns in oil
"There are a thousand ways to eat stinky tofu in the mouths of a thousand foodies." However, if you want to say that there is a special feature, then you have to talk about our Tonglu Iwahashi stinky tofu, especially the oil boiling steamed bun with stinky tofu, which is the most classic way to eat stinky tofu.
A large parasol, a briquette stove, a pan of oil, the oil boiling steamed bun stall is hidden in the most inconspicuous place at the end of the alley, but "the smell is not afraid of the deep alley". In the afternoon, I heard the clamor of boiling steamed buns, hurriedly asked my mother for five yuan, ran to the boiling steamed bun stall, surrounded the grandmother, watched her skillfully put the steamed buns into the oil pot, the steamed buns were fried to golden brown, cut from the edge while hot, smeared with chili sauce in the middle, plus one or two pieces of fried Iwahashi stinky tofu, this aroma with a spicy taste, let me eat my own portion early on the way home after buying, salivating my mother's share. It is no wonder that after eight years of imprisonment for ten years, when he returned to his hometown in 1976, the first thing he wanted to eat was the oil-boiled steamed bun with stinky tofu in his hometown.
Then dry the main character of the boiling steamed bun in oil, Iwahashi stinky tofu. She has a history of more than 600 years, and it is said that when Liu Bowen, the founding military master of the Ming Dynasty, was teaching at Tonglu (huì) Gang, he asked the owner to "eat it without luxury, and two dishes are enough for the meal", one of which is the Yanqiao stinky tofu near the village of Yigang. Today, Iwahashi stinky tofu appears in high-end hotel restaurants in large and medium-sized cities such as Shanghai and Hong Kong, and has become one of the designated ingredients for the state banquet hall of the Great Hall of the People in Beijing.
We Tonglu people who make stinky tofu like to accompany her with chili peppers, fresh chili peppers, or chili sauce. Steamed, smooth and delicate, salty and delicious, stir-fried, salty and spicy, appetite. The simple method and the preservation of the original taste are one of the true meanings of our Tonglu farmhouse delicious.
Fuchun Jiangziling fish
Ziling fish is one of the specialties of Tonglu, general anchovy (shí) fish (anchovy is a valuable fish species in the Fuchun River, Su Shi called it "the best of the southern country", is one of the main dishes of the Manchu Han feast, for Tonglu has a famous specialty. Since the mid-1980s, the anchovy has disappeared from the Tonglu Fuchun River) after the sea, the fish only traced up the river and gathered under the Tonglu Ziling Beach, hence the name.
Speaking of Ziling Fish, I think of my elementary school. I went to primary school in the countryside, so there were no training classes in my summer vacation, and some of them were just mountains and streams, fields and forests, and crazy "wilds" with friends. But only when I and my friends take a bamboo dustpan to catch fish in the creek, will let me live a quiet day. In fact, the daily harvest is not much, the clothes will be soaked, simply jump into the stream to take a bath. Sunsets bring sporadic ziling fish home, and mom usually washes them and sautés the chili peppers. A "spicy stir-fried fish" is a reward for the fruits of my day's labor.
In fact, in Tonglu, dried roast ziling fish is one of the most common and characteristic famous dishes, we use dried or simmered ziling fish as raw materials, with minced meat, garlic, ginger, red pepper and other spices, cooking in the oil pot, after the pot is drizzled with sesame oil, its taste is fresh and spicy, the entrance leaves a residual fragrance, called a delicacy. The original farmhouse flavor is integrated into every Tonglu cuisine.
Zhongshan dried tofu
Dried tofu is one of the traditional specialties of Tonglu, of which the dried tofu in Zhongshan Township of Tonglu is the most prestigious.
Even though I haven't eaten it in a long time now, I can still clearly remember her taste. I still remember her golden color, eating it tough but not hard, salty and delicious, remembering that I went to high school, eating vacuum-packed dried tofu, and not forgetting to suck dry the tofu juice in the bag. This is due to the clever Zhongshan people who fuse Kaiyang, ham and soy products to produce Kaiyang and ham dried tofu, and the juice drops and leaves a fragrance, which is a masterpiece of "the sum of things".
The reason why our Zhongshan dried tofu is famous is that our local high-quality soybeans and mountain spring water are used as raw materials, and refined by more than a dozen unique traditional crafts such as material selection and boiling, which also confirms the classic movie line "As long as you are careful, everyone is a god of food." "With the heart to complete each production process, even if there is only a handful of soybeans and a spoonful of mountain springs in hand, Tonglu people can also serve a farmhouse delicacy."
Listening to the old man of the grandfather generation, in the old days, in front of the hotel counter in the area of the east gate of the county, people used to stand a piece of dried fennel tofu in their left hand, hold a bowl of hot old wine in their right hand, take a bite of dried tofu, drink a large mouthful of hot old wine, chew slowly, which in my opinion has the taste of the old Shaoxing of the Xianheng Hotel.
Bell mountain honey pear
Zhongshan Township in Tonglu is a blessed land, and in addition to the delicious dried Zhongshan tofu, it also produces refreshing pears. Every year, when the pear blossoms are in full bloom, in addition to welcoming the mountain flower festival in Tonglu, I actually look forward to the harvest season of honey pears.
Tonglu has produced pears since ancient times, and the "Tonglu County Chronicle" once recorded: "Tonglu white pears are the highest quality, with thin skin, delicate and slag-free characteristics, and are famous in Shanghai, Hangzhou, Shao and other places." The honey pears in Zhongshan Township are even more prestigious, and the honors of "the first batch of provincial-level high-quality agricultural products", "Zhejiang International Expo Quality Award" and "Hangzhou High-quality Agricultural Products Gold Award" are the best praise for Zhongshan honey pears.
As my hometown, I am more fond of honey pears, I like to put the honey pear in the refrigerator for a while, peel off the peel when eating, bite down, the ice refreshing juice, let people feel really crisp and refreshing, and the bell honey pear fruit shape, like me such a big bite, a pear to eat down, bite the mouth is sour, but I still "salivate" her flesh tender, sweet, this thanks to the cultivation of honey pears Zhongshan Township surrounded by mountains, deep forests, low hills and gentle slopes, but also with a little volcanic geological natural conditions, Such an environment not only nurtures Zhongshan honey pears, but also raises us who live in the "hometown of Chinese honey pears".
Yangshan peach
As the main venue of the Tonglu Mountain Flower Festival, in The spring of March, the peach blossoms in Yangshan must be the most beautiful scenery, just like the "peach blossom source".
But for us foodies, peaches hanging on the branches are true love, and peach blossoms are just floating clouds. I have loved to eat peaches since I was a child, and the status of peaches in my mind is still very high, but the authentic Yangshan peaches are very popular, and as a local, I have not tasted them several times, but this does not reduce the good impression left by yangshan peaches. Her appearance is round, the skin is creamy yellow, the top has a reddish halo, if the grower lets it fully mature on the tree, the flesh of the fruit will become soft honey juice, as long as the straw is inserted into the skin to suck, the taste is delicate, the juice is sweet, just like the brand of fresh juice advertising depicted in the advertisement. I really want to shout "Peach Jun, come to my bowl."
But as the saying goes, "it is difficult for a woman to cook without rice", the peaches of Yangshan are good, sweet, and sell well, just because Yangshan peaches have been planted for more than 150 years, and have cultivated good peach varieties, and Yangshan Village is located in the south of the local Niutou Mountain, with sufficient light, plus many mountain terraces, each peach enjoys a sun bath. This is not sweet, in the words of Yang Kun to describe "that is heavenly reason" is not tolerated."
High pavilion dried sweet potatoes
Tonglu is a low hill, and sweet potato cultivation is unique, and sweet potatoes are also very common crops. When I was very young, my grandparents would often cut sweet potatoes into thick sweet potato chips, and when cooking rice on the wood stove, they would often stick to the edge of the pot and cook it with the rice as a staple food. Making the remaining sweet potatoes at the end of the year into dried sweet potatoes that are easier to preserve is a specialty for grandparents. When I was a child, I had the impression that one dried sweet potato would bite for a long time, but it was very sweet and sticky, and my grandparents would make it into a big basket and dry it on a charcoal fire at night.
And now there are fewer and fewer people who are willing to make their own dried sweet potatoes, and now they can make this childhood food, which may only be left in the mountainous areas like Tonglu hecun Gaoliangting Village, which is far from the downtown town, with high forest coverage and good air quality, so the sweet potatoes grown here are of high quality and good texture, so that the sweet potatoes known as "longevity food" have been reborn here.
Eating dried sweet potatoes in the high pavilion, you can still recall the scene of riding on my grandfather's shoulders as a child, holding dried sweet potatoes in my hands, and making a strong bite. Although the grandparents are not as delicate as the dried sweet potatoes in the high pavilion, with the shape of a chicken heart and the amber color, the dried sweet potatoes in the high pavilion are still as sticky as when they were children, the taste is sweet and mellow, and the freshness of the countryside cannot be erased.
Iwabashi dates
In my memory, Iwahashi dates are one of Iwahashi's famous signs, Iwahashi dates are not mass-produced, just like the Qing Ming families' green kueh, may only be for family enjoyment, which also adds a touch of mystery to Iwabashi dates.
The prototype of Iwahashi dates is closer to the golden amber dates, her color is golden like amber, the cut lines are like gold wire, bright and transparent, the flesh is thick and small, retaining the natural jujube fragrance. Iwahashi people's ordinary preserves are also ordinary to make, but there is no shortage of delicacy.
Every year, when the dates at the end of the village are ripe, Iwahashi people are busy with a day's agricultural work, pick them by hand, put them in the hats they wear after doing farm work, and return home to select those long white, moth-free, and red-headed high-quality dates. In the agricultural leisure time, Iwahashi people skillfully select, cut, harvest and cut the picked dates, pot boiling, raw roasting, squeezing, old roasting, sorting and other eight processes, the most brilliant is the knife cutting process, all the dates to cut 40 knives to 100 knives, and the knife knife is uniform, not shallow and not deep, which also requires the intention of the maker, in the eyes of outsiders, ordinary dates, in the eyes of Iwahashi people is the memory of family reunion, jujube eating nagging.
Under a uniform knife workmanship, dates are easier to cook, absorb sugar, and contain protein, calcium, phosphorus, iron and a variety of vitamins, especially vitamin C content is the highest, each date contains 400-600 mg, 140 times higher than the same weight of pears.
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