[ Persimmon ]
persimmon
Autumn colors in Hangzhou this year,
A little later than in previous years.
She twisted her crotch when she came,
And that's it.
The weather is suddenly cold, the osmanthus blossoms are wild, the persimmons are wet and soft,
The tomatoes on the wet branches of Hangzhou Xixi know,
【Kisho persimmon feast】The temperature on that day was 20 degrees,
The day after the end, it fell to 10 degrees.
This kind of warmness of one period and one meeting,
It's so jealous that it's astringent.
In my heart, the West Lake is light and thick, it is Baochao, and the rain in Xixi is Daiyu. Dai Yu's pure and true beauty can be found. But for people who don't know how to appreciate, it is sour, and really love, I see people around me like "falling from the sky" like a love.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="442" > autumn colors of Xixi Wetland</h1>
I believe that for every encounter, Xixi Wetland has waited for at least a thousand years.
People who love to eat, in the face of wild fun, should pay more attention. The sun is like the autumn stage lights, you think that the beautiful lady who is not bright enough, you have to have the ability to meet her, let her become hearty in your palm.
At this time in autumn, the persimmons in Xixi are full of juice and fat, and those who are jerky and green, the gardeners of the Mushou Xixi Hotel will use a net bag to pocket and directly take them from the trees. Most of them are old Xixi residents, well versed in the little secrets of autumn persimmons, prepared aphrodisiac quicklime water early, soaked six or seven ripe green and yellow fruits in love, and had to wait for three days without branches.
This way of eating is called "lazy persimmon" in the north. The persimmons brewed in the autumn waves are salvaged and carefully washed off the lime water. I couldn't wait to take a bite, there was golden tenderness.
Some of the persimmon trees in Xixi Wetland have spanned hundreds of years, while the young ones are also decades old. The taste of "stewed persimmon" is different from that of Japanese crisp sweet persimmon, it is flexible, it is chewed and fragrant between the teeth, and it smells light and elegant, while the taste is more mellow. It was a picnic as a child, and the stolen persimmon flavor was irreplaceable.
The autumn colors of Hangzhou Xixi Wetland are different from half a beat in the morning and half a step late.
At this time last year, I asked three friends to swim in xixi in the rain to eat fish pots, and it was rare to see the high-level Xiao Serhuang in Song paintings. There was only one wooden boat for us, and the patrol electric boat next to us ran with the fierce water, and our captain was still struggling to clear the waves. The opposite cockpit had a Star Trek expression, thinking that he had encountered four crazy people who had not blown cold winds. Crab leaves old, few wild ducks, fish pot fragrant. I sighed that such a meal would never come again, but it would certainly not be easy to go.
This year, this Xixi's "shaking pot" has become a golden memory. When I came again, the reeds were full of persimmons.
When Xixi zhengmei was just right, the famous gourmet Shen Hongfei (Shen Ye) came, he is such an interesting and extraordinary person, in the food circle and cultural circles are well-known, in order to ask him to eat at the same table, I am also one of the flockers. He "threw persimmons to ask for directions" at the Mushou Xixi Hotel, and a group of friends flocked to him. At that time, Li Shangyin, who asked a sentence of "near Guo Xixi is good, who can share the wine pot", if he crossed over to eat this beautiful persimmon feast, I was afraid that he would be jealous!
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="635" > Xixi Kisho persimmon feast menu</h1>
As the blue of dusk gradually changes into twilight, those small golden lanterns also become more and more crimson until they disappear into the beautiful landscape. The beauty of Xixi became an oil painting that became deeper and deeper the more you looked at.
A pot of persimmon leaf tea tumbles under the persimmon tree, and a scent of dates in the grass overflows. For many practitioners and valley breakers, persimmon leaf tea is a sacred product that maintains the metabolism of the human body, and the aroma is rich.
Teacher Chen Li, a food master, just said, "Persimmons, walnuts, chestnuts, and dates are the four major vegetarian grains." I was nodding my head, and unconsciously, Shen Ye's friends were also happy.
A menu of Mu Shou persimmon banquets was spread out on the guest table, among them, Wang Bin, the talented boss of Mu Shou, the beautiful flower sister, and Peter Zhou, the "light of the hotel" who arrived in the city for an hour, gradually calmed down and waited for the banquet. Guest JC has raised a camera that has insight into the beauty of the table and recorded the "good persimmon happening" in front of him.
The exquisite four styles of cold dishes, salty and fresh, with sour and refreshing, crisp and spicy flavor, and then with a milky mellow finish, it is simply a perfect fit!
The "foie gras persimmon fruit" is salty and fresh, and Chef Kimori skillfully wraps the persimmon cake skin to make the liver gras, and the soft foie gras and crisp walnuts are all wrapped in the fermented aroma of the persimmon cake.
"Blackcurrant persimmon jelly" has a slight sour taste and relieves the rich lipot of the previous dish. The persimmon grains are solidified in persimmon fruit pure dew, crystal clear, with a fragrant aftertaste of persimmon leaves.
"Pickled Pepper Crispy Persimmon" awakens the tongue and brings a jumping sense of taste, inspired by the special cold dish Ofaki Nishiki Yin Restaurant in Kishou, changjin radish, which chefs use as a kimchi and marinate it with pickled peppers.
"Persimmon Cake Butter Roll" was developed by Teacher Chen Li, the shape and inspiration are derived from the traditional northern snack Guodan Peel, persimmon cake and butter are stacked, the sweet fragrance overflows perfectly despicious, and also leaves a milk fragrance in the mouth.
The subsequent persimmon sauce salad came from one of the guests of the evening, the famous chef Liu Gaochen. He studied at bogus, the world's top Western culinary and hotel management school in Lyon, France, and worked in the world's top three-Michelin-starred restaurants: Restaurant Paul Bocuse and Restaurant Alain Ducasse a Paris in Paris, and founded Le Paris Group in Shanghai after returning to China.
This simple salad blends two forms of persimmons, one flowing and one crunchy. The special persimmon sauce with a hint of spicy flavor and lime, combined with crispy persimmons and seasonal salad, is appetizing.
This soup was one of the highlights of the evening, blending the skin gelatin of the braised fish head in Huaiyang cuisine, playing sticky in the mouth, and the sour and spicy of Hangzhou's traditional Song sister-in-law fish soup. Pepper complements persimmon vinegar, and persimmon leaf shreds complement each other with ham shreds while increasing the level of taste.
The hot dish of the fire persimmon baked green dragon, which I ate for the first time, is an innovative combination of chef Kisho's local customs.
"Persimmon Vinegar Xixi Vinegar Fish" uses the traditional West Lake vinegar fish method, and the combination of vinegar and ginger makes people close their eyes and taste the seasonal crab fresh, which is a must. Persimmon vinegar adds a fruity aroma that seeps into the fresh grass carp meat of the Xixi wetland and blooms with the delicious flap flap.
Shen Ye's persimmon fruit wood roast lamb chop was the most praised dish of the night, with an irresistible finger sucking incense! The roasting fuel made of persimmon leaves and persimmon branches in the Kisho Park, which I thought was just to increase the wild interest, added a surprising fruit and wood aroma to the lamb, which made me and the senior food critic Tao Yu linger in this fat and beautiful room.
After a plate, we all lamented that the milk aroma of lamb fat and the woody caramel of persimmons were a perfect match!
Eyebrow Teacher is an artist and a gourmet, and an eyebrow fried rice soul haunts fans. Persimmon Feast added The eyebrow teacher's classic signature fried rice to the crisp persimmon pieces and fused it into the evening's staple food, "Persimmon Fried Rice". The soul-destroying taste of the rice flavor actually comes from the crushed gold ginger.
The guests at the scene said that Shen Ye's persimmon fruit wood roast lamb chops and eyebrow teacher's persimmon fried rice are a perfect match!
I have a vague worry about the one that appears later, but when I see the exquisite weight of Kimori persimmon noodles, I can appreciate the penetrating perception of Teacher Chen Li, a gourmet and professor of human spiritual behavior.
Teacher Chen Li made the best grown persimmons in mushou park into handmade persimmon noodles, the broth has a lobster umami flavor, and the soup is also decorated with a small amount of simmered persimmon flesh to dissolve the greasy, and the aroma is long.
The dessert is persimmon ruyi, which can be faked and real. This dish is made in a manner similar to Japanese and fruit, with a flat persimmon jam wrapped in kidney bean puree, which is sweet as desired.
Shen Ye's caramel persimmon pudding hid a large persimmon tongue, and the beautiful woman could only laugh and say nothing after eating.
Shen Ye's friends who came to help on that day were not lacking in high-ranking people, such as Teacher Pang Ying, she is a famous Zhen jiangnan, fans throughout China's tea family, footprints are also all over the famous mountains and rivers with good tea.
The beautiful sommelier Shen Li (WSET Level 3) is responsible for the wine list that night, she is actually a media person, because of the blind tasting skills out of the circle.
In the laughter and laughter of this banquet, I was grateful for the fate of Shen Ye and Mu Shou this time, not only ate the thousands of hearts of this Xixi forest fairy "persimmon", but also enjoyed the most beautiful autumn on the banks of Xixi creek this year with my friends!
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Autumn Color threw a persimmon feast at the Mu Shou Persimmon Feast, and Shen Ye's friends were fascinated.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="636" > Postscript: Flowing Persimmons</h1>
Costumes for high-end banquets are very important. I received the Dress Code of "Persimmon Elements" at the banquet that day, and wore the "alkie collection" that I have recently been obsessed with. I love the exquisite stitching and details of this, the whole collection is hand-woven fabrics.
Founder Yung Tai said that the natural art of India is the main design of the Alkie collection. The clothes use the method of fermentation, mixing various plants as dyeing materials, which also contain persimmon dyes. The traditional dyeing pigments of India contain dry spices, plant shells, flowers, etc. In fact, China's handmade herbal dyes are better, the previous so-called moon white, rain over azure blue, silver red, tassel purple, goose yellow, autumn color, bamboo green, turquoise ... The romantic names of these colors in Hanfu are natural masterpieces of herbs and minerals, but they have gradually become a niche because they are too expensive.
In our tradition, there are also "persimmon lacquer" made of green persimmons, and now the single use of persimmon dyeing is generally found in Japan and Korea.
The homework that Shen Ye assigned to me at that time was to welcome coffee and snacks. In addition to food, I am a senior barista at the International Association of Coffee Shops, while satisfying my hobby of professional brooches in the coffee industry (including the one I jokingly call the World Fine Persimmon Association logo ^_^). I have never actually drunk persimmon coffee, and this time I thought of using a regular latte sprinkled with persimmon freeze-dried powder to make a blend, but I prefer to use the concept of "park" to develop coffee.
I wear a "persimmon suit" and also have a sincere heart, this persimmon coffee customized for Shen Ye's persimmon feast, took the mixture of two kinds of beans.
One is ethiopian costa Rica at an altitude of 1300-1600 meters in the Sabanella district of the Central Valley, with cherry, citrus, thick chocolate flavors and a strong berry tone.
There is also an Ethiopian flower kui with an altitude of 1850-2000 meters above sea level in the Huakui district of Zude Farm, the hometown of President Ethiopia, with jasmine, lavender and strawberry flavors, which are fresh herbal tones.
After the two are mixed, the chicken hearts and persimmons (small and thick) are added for three days, and after a little nourishment, the hand punches. In order to borrow a clearer flavor from the "Kimori Persimmon Feast" and add an interesting color head, I made this decision. Shen Ye said that next time you can use the white frost on the persimmon cake to make coffee flavoring, I think it is a very good proposal!
This time, I developed an upgraded version of the cake after comprehensively studying the persimmon cake on the market. Many fans should also have a habit of baking, so I will share the following!
Persimmon chiffon six-inch cake embryo ingredients:
3 eggs (about 60 grams each with shell), 35 grams of milk, 45 grams of caster sugar (30 grams plus egg whites, 15 grams plus egg yolks), 50 grams of low gluten flour, 30 grams of corn oil, a few drops of lemon juice (or white vinegar), 3-5 grams of corn starch (plus egg white), 1 gram of salt.
Step 1: Milk + Sugar + Corn Oil, stir with a manual whisk until emulsified.
Step 2: Sift in low gluten flour. Low gluten flour gluten is low, easy to agglomerate, must be sieved once or twice, the internal tissue of the finished product will be delicate and soft, with a manual whisk to draw a Z shape to no dry powder, can not be stirred in circles, so as not to rise.
Step 3: Batter 2 is thick and easy to mix after adding the egg yolks. Stir in the Z-shaped technique with a manual whisk to avoid over-stirring and causing the batter to become strong. Try to have as little egg white as possible in the egg yolk, the egg yolk paste contains protein batter is easy to tendon!
Step 4: The egg white container must be clean and oil-free, make sure that there is no egg yolk in the egg white, and the egg white can be sent. A few drops of lemon juice or white vinegar, a gram of salt, start beating at medium speed, lemon juice or white vinegar to remove fishiness, while helping to whip up the protein, salt is a natural modifier of flour that can increase flavor.
Step 5: Hit until the coarse bubble adds one-third of the fine granulated sugar to continue to beat at high speed, pay attention to each corner to be in place, the egg beater should be attached to the pelvic floor and the basin wall, if the edge is still protein is not hit, you can stop and scrape with a spatula.
Step 6: Beat until the foam is delicate and add half of the remaining sugar to continue beating.
Step 7: Add the remaining sugar to the texture, and add corn starch at the same time, (corn starch can absorb the excess water in the meringo, so that the meringue is more stable, not easy to defoam) First do not open the egg beater, the corn starch is first stirred into the egg white and then open the egg beater, so as not to fly up the starch, while turning into a medium speed to send, reduce the speed is to sweep away the large bubbles inside the meringue, make it more delicate and stable, and finally run at a low speed.
Step 8: Hit until the lines deepen, the whisk has a little resistance, the meringue becomes delicate and shiny, and the whisk is lifted with a short, small curved hook, which is wet foaming.
Step 9: Take one-third of the meringue into the egg yolk paste, this step can be stirred with a manual blender Z line, easier to mix evenly than a spatula, and not easy to defoam.
Step 10: Pour the well-mixed batter back into the meringue, change the spatula cutting and mixing methods to mix well, do not draw circles, so as not to defoam. The defoamed cake is not tall, the internal tissue is not fluffy, it is easy to form a pudding layer, the top collapses, etc.
Step 11: Mix well with a spatula, cut the spatula vertically, cut to the bottom of the welt and turn over, and turn the container in the opposite direction with your left hand. This is the standard mixing method.
Step 12: After mixing well, slowly pour into the mold from a height of about 20 cm from the countertop for seven or eight minutes, (not too fast, avoid injecting a lot of air, generating large bubbles) Gently shake and send it into the lower layer of the preheated oven, heat up and down for 130 degrees for 20 minutes, turn 150 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes.
Broken thoughts: When you make a cake, if you still have to take pictures and remember the camera safety, dust is very lethal to the lens. The finished cake photos were all taken by Shen Ye himself!
I finally felt how lethal FOOD PORN is... Stand.
Sorry, a little distracted, my cake recipe first finished ha!
Finished persimmon cake:
250g of light cream, 10g of sugar, 300g of ripe chicken hearts persimmons, 15g of honey, appropriate amount of water, a small amount of persimmons, herbs, etc. are left for decoration.
Step 1: Add the light cream to the whip.
Step 2: Peel the chiffon cake and cut the embryos into three even layers.
Step 3: Persimmons are dug out with a spoon. Mix the honey with the right amount of water, mix a little persimmon water inside, and brush the front and back of the three layers of cake embryos.
Step 4: Fill with a layer of light cream and a layer of persimmon meat, and spread the light cream evenly on the outside.
Step 5: Decorate the top with persimmons, herbs, etc.
In the face of flowing, I also flow. At this time, my mind is full of Zhuang Zhidi's chapter of Comparing Liu Yue's body to "ripe persimmon eggs", and before Mr. Jia Pingwa wrote "Waste Capital", I am afraid that he was also a deep persimmon lover.
The godmother asked
What do you like about autumn ?
"Near Guo Xixi good,
Who can share the wine pot. ”
- "Xixi" Li Shangyin (Tang Dynasty)
Food Bless You！
Consultant of China International Food Expo
Producer of "The Table of Gods"