The Paper's reporter Yu Kai
How exquisite is the dragon robe weaving process of the Yongzheng Emperor of the Qing Dynasty?
On November 21, in the 37-story Treasure Vault Ingenuity Museum of the Lujiazui Shanghai Tower, known as the "highest museum in Shanghai", a replica of the Yongzheng Emperor's dragon robe on display restored the weaving process of "seamless clothes".
The Yongzheng Emperor's dragon robe, which lasted 5 years and was copied in a 1:1 ratio, was completely in accordance with the weaving standards of the "Jiangning Weaving House" in the Qing Dynasty The pictures in this article are taken by the surging news reporter Yu Kai
Jin Wen, the inheritor of the hand-weaving technique of nanjing yunjin wood machine makeup flower, who successfully copied this dragon robe, is currently the only national-level master of arts and crafts in the yunjin industry, who has been engaged in the creation and research of yunjin for nearly 50 years, and is known as the first person to weave the dragon robe. Jin Wen told the surging news that the original of the dragon robe cultural relics is collected in the Palace Museum, and the original object is marked as made by the Jiangning Weaving House in the Yongzheng Period, which is the imperial dress worn by the Yongzheng Emperor of the Qing Dynasty when he ascended to the dynasty.
"The weaving process of the dragon robe is extremely complex, called 'seamless', which means the emperor's clothes, the gold and color connection, and the pattern are one. The flower cost of picking flowers weighs more than 100 pounds, the end and end are connected up to more than 50 meters, and 121370 weft lines are used to weave in turn according to the order of each part in the lining structure. A million colored threads cannot have a single mistake, and if you are not careful, the pattern will not match, and the materials worth hundreds of thousands of dollars cannot be restored and reused," Jin Wen said.
From the development of the makeup yarn twisting loom, to the experiment of variety organization, to the weaving, Jin Wen groped little by little, and finally successfully reproduced the dragon robe. The "Bright Yellow Satin Weaving Cloud Golden Dragon Clip Imperial Dress" exhibited in Shanghai this time is completely in accordance with the weaving standards of the "Jiangning Weaving House" of the Qing Dynasty and produced in a 1:1 ratio, which took 5 years to complete.
Statues of emperors of past dynasties
The Silk Road chairs, backs and cushions of the China Pavilion at Expo Dubai are all made of cloud brocade
Chinese silk has a history of more than 7,000 years, and Nanjing Yunjin, together with Chengdu Shujin, Suzhou Songjin and Guangxi Zhuangjin, is called "China's Four Famous Brocades" and ranks first.
The "Jinshang Fanghua - Jinwen Master Yunjin Works Exhibition" opened in Shanghai this time not only brought a replica of the Yongzheng dragon robe, "Portraits of Emperors of Past Dynasties", a screen that expressed the landscape of the Song Dynasty with a cloud brocade on the bottom of the yarn, a Silk Road chair in the Chinese Pavilion of the Dubai World Expo, "The Great Wall" that won the Chinese Folk Art Mountain Flower Award, and a "Prosperous Map of Yingtian", which is designed to be 4 meters * 2.4 meters, which can be called the world's largest cloud brocade.
"The Great Wall" won the Chinese Folk Art Mountain Flower Award
With a design size of 4 meters * 2.4 meters, it can be called the world's largest cloud brocade "YingTian Prosperous Map"
The red-robed Zhuangyuan crossed the mayou Street and walked in the middle of the Changgan Bridge, becoming the most eye-catching visual center of the "YingTian Prosperous Map"
"Yingtian Prosperous Map" focuses on nine important scenic spots in the history of Nanjing - the Liuli Pagoda of Bao'en Temple, the Zhonghuamen Castle, the Changgan Bridge, the TianxiaShu, the Confucius Dacheng Hall, the Qinhuai River, the Wende Bridge, the Drum Tower, and the Purple Mountain, which is the cultural map of ancient Nanjing. On the screen, the honor guard team of Zhuangyuan slowly came from the Confucius Temple, out of the Jubao Gate of the south gate of Ming City, and the red-clad Zhuangyuan crossed the Mayou Street and walked in the middle of the Changgan Bridge, becoming the most eye-catching visual center.
Jin Wen told reporters that the maximum size of the ancient cloud brocade loom is 1.9 meters, and the maximum size of the modern loom is 2.2 meters, in order to complete this masterpiece, he specially developed a 2.4-meter special loom, and finally 10 craftsmen spent a year to weave together to complete.
Visitors see the costumes of Yunjin inside the museum
The House of the Five Blessings
Yunjin Thangka
According to reports, "Ying Tian Prosperous Map" used a lot of real gold and silver when weaving, the Ming city wall part is used 98% pure silver wire, with gold is more complicated, first from real gold into gold leaf, and then cut into silk, according to purity divided into 98% gold, 88% gold, 74% gold, the formation of several gold lines of color halo layering, plus multicolored velvet, together to present a colorful, golden brilliant color effect. Among them, the gold thread used in the ground of The Yuanfu is the highest purity and the most shiny under the illumination of the light. This epoch-making masterpiece in the history of Yunjin has become a project of the National Endowment for the Arts in 2019, and this is the first time it has been exhibited in Shanghai.
Responsible editor: Chen Yiping Photo editor: Jiang Lidong
Proofreader: Luan Meng